Old Buick 350

[ssn696]

Where are you located? I have an uncut 455 I picked up eleven years ago for a project that went another way...

 

[Regalproject213]

I'm in tempe az

 

[Bonnewagon]

$100 is a steal, so you can afford to play with it a bit. I like to do what I used to call a "$100 rebuild" but it's a lot more expensive these days. First I would do a compression test to see if it was worth even doing. If I got good compression then I'd pull the heads off just so I could de-carbonize the head combustion chambers and piston tops with a wire brush on a drill and a scraper for the real crusty buildup and use new head, intake, and valve cover gaskets to button the top end up. Then I would change the oil pump and oil pan gasket, timing set, front seal, water pump, thermostat, fuel pump, and motor mounts. With the pan off, a neoprene real seal is a good idea and for a Buick a high volume oil pump kit is also a good idea. I have used fully grooved main bearings too so I could be sure oil got to the mains- Buicks oil the cam and lifters before the crank. If you know the carb is a good original, reuse or rebuild it, on an unknown or missing carb I would just get a rebuilt. Rebuild the distributor or get a rebuilt, plus new plug wires, cap, rotor, and plugs. A lot more costly nowadays, and you haven't even done any machine work, but if the engine is sound to begin with, now you really have something.

 

[Regalproject213]

$100 is a steal, so you can afford to play with it a bit. I like to do what I used to call a "$100 rebuild" but it's a lot more expensive these days. First I would do a compression test to see if it was worth even doing. If I got good compression then I'd pull the heads off just so I could de-carbonize the head combustion chambers and piston tops with a wire brush on a drill and a scraper for the real crusty buildup and use new head, intake, and valve cover gaskets to button the top end up. Then I would change the oil pump and oil pan gasket, timing set, front seal, water pump, thermostat, fuel pump, and motor mounts. With the pan off, a neoprene real seal is a good idea and for a Buick a high volume oil pump kit is also a good idea. I have used fully grooved main bearings too so I could be sure oil got to the mains- Buicks oil the cam and lifters before the crank. If you know the carb is a good original, reuse or rebuild it, on an unknown or missing carb I would just get a rebuilt. Rebuild the distributor or get a rebuilt, plus new plug wires, cap, rotor, and plugs. A lot more costly nowadays, and you haven't even done any machine work, but if the engine is sound to begin with, now you really have something.

This sounds like a great plan 🙂. Ill probably start taking the heads, and intake off this weekend. First I have to clean it up a bit, going to hit it with some purple power and a wire brush today once I get home from work. I will start pricing gaskets, and other things you mentioned tonight. Figure if I buy a few things here and there when I get paid it won't hurt the wallet so bad.

 

[Regalproject213]

$100 is a steal, so you can afford to play with it a bit. I like to do what I used to call a "$100 rebuild" but it's a lot more expensive these days. First I would do a compression test to see if it was worth even doing. If I got good compression then I'd pull the heads off just so I could de-carbonize the head combustion chambers and piston tops with a wire brush on a drill and a scraper for the real crusty buildup and use new head, intake, and valve cover gaskets to button the top end up. Then I would change the oil pump and oil pan gasket, timing set, front seal, water pump, thermostat, fuel pump, and motor mounts. With the pan off, a neoprene real seal is a good idea and for a Buick a high volume oil pump kit is also a good idea. I have used fully grooved main bearings too so I could be sure oil got to the mains- Buicks oil the cam and lifters before the crank. If you know the carb is a good original, reuse or rebuild it, on an unknown or missing carb I would just get a rebuilt. Rebuild the distributor or get a rebuilt, plus new plug wires, cap, rotor, and plugs. A lot more costly nowadays, and you haven't even done any machine work, but if the engine is sound to begin with, now you really have something.

The company decided to provide us lunch today, so since I didn't have to go anywhere I used my lunch hour to do some pricing. Ofcourse I am not going to buy anything yet. Just window shopping. Total for all the parts you listed minus the motor mounts, if I am not mistaken won't the V-6 mounts work? Total came out to about $170. Not to shabby. Ofcourse I was looking at the lower priced stuff with free shipping lol. Here are the links. What do you guys thinks would you advice against these? Or are they OK?


Timing set $30
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Timing-Set-Cloyes-Gear-Product-C-3003K-/221639877243?fits=Year%3A1970%7CMake%3ABuick%7CSubmodel%3A350&hash=item339ac4227b&vxp=mtr
Fuel pump $17
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151835621380
High Volume Oil pump $56
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealed-Power-224-518V-Oil-Pump-Kit-High-Volume-/181851699595?fits=Year%3A1970%7CMake%3ABuick%7CSubmodel%3A350&hash=item2a5734b98b&vxp=mtr
Engine Gasket Set $47
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fel-Pro-KS2613-Engine-Kit-Set-/381291060455?fits=Make%3ABuick%7CSubmodel%3A350&hash=item58c6b7dce7&vxp=mtr
Front Seal $ 8
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Crankshaft-Seal-Front-Rear-TIMKEN-710173-/321217708606?fits=Make%3ABuick%7CSubmodel%3A350&hash=item4aca11423e&vxp=mtr
Water Pump $23
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airtex-AW855-New-Water-Pump-/321782607336?fits=Make%3ABuick%7CSubmodel%3A350&hash=item4aebbcede8&vxp=mtr
Thermostat $13
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-Thermostat-New-Chevy-E250-Van-E350-F150-Truck-F250-F350-Ram-33008S-/131504745969?fits=Make%3ABuick%7CSubmodel%3A350&hash=item1e9e4b2df1&vxp=mtr

 

[Bonnewagon]

The front seal comes with the timing cover set which is included with the whole engine set. That's a lot for a thermostat. Try RockAuto.com and if you order from them don't forget to include the 5% discount code. You enter it where it says "where did you hear about us?" and this one is good until Nov 12, 2015. Here it is- 2AE786C07A0A14.

 

[Regalproject213]

The front seal comes with the timing cover set which is included with the whole engine set. That's a lot for a thermostat. Try RockAuto.com and if you order from them don't forget to include the 5% discount code. You enter it where it says "where did you hear about us?" and this one is good until Nov 12, 2015. Here it is- 2AE786C07A0A14.

Thank you sir! I had a chance to take off the intake and water pump last night. Here are some pics, a little debri fell on the sided and I cleaned it up, but nothing actualy went down into the valley. What do you guys think?

I will be taking the heads off today since I should be out a litle early from work. I plan on getting them rebuilt. How much do you think that should run me? It will be just a basic rebuild nothing fancy.

Thank you

 

[Regalproject213]

Sorry didn't upload correctly

 

[Regalproject213]

So I had some time to take valve covers off. Heads are stamped 1233472. Are these good heads worth rebuilding?

 

[Pontiac455]

So I had some time to take valve covers off. Heads are stamped 1233472. Are these good heads worth rebuilding?

Yes, one of the best oem buick sb heads. 1970, 58 cc chamber. Ya lucky c**t. whats the casting number on the block and intake? I was hoping you would disassemble this engine and do it right.