NICE! I still need to clean up the engine a bit. To see the casting number. I don't remember the number right now on the intake but I did a little research. From what I found it was used in 1970 skylark GS. Block doesn't seem to be rebuilt so I'm pretty sure it's all number matching.
Old Buick 350
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NICE! I still need to clean up the engine a bit. To see the casting number. I don't remember the number right now on the intake but I did a little research. From what I found it was used in 1970 skylark GS. Block doesn't seem to be rebuilt so I'm pretty sure it's all number matching.
I've decided to tear it down and see what I'm working with. What needs to be rebuilt will. I plan to assemble myself. So I will be asking tons of questions.
Well, Yes and No. I can get the engine to do about 3/4 of a turn and then it just gets stuck unless I go the other way. I have just been going back and forth until it stops. Seems to be giving way each time just a bit more. I plan on taking the heads off today, there seems to be some pretty good gunk build up in the cylinders.
I bought one of those "how to build your buick engine" books to read and get familiar with it and know what clearances will be needed when re-assembling. .. But in all honestly I have never tore down, and re-asseblemed a complete engine before. I do know that I need to stamp the main rods so they all go back as they where LOL.
My question is this, if the piston, and cylinder walls look good. Can I get by with just getting the block cleaned and honed and re-use the internals? OR should I buy a rebuild kit like this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1980-B...KIT-/251754705591?hash=item3a9dbff2b7&vxp=mtr
I am taking the heads to a shop to get rebuilt.
Maybe I should just buy all the parts and take it to a shop to have them do all the work. ..but that sucks because I do want to learn how to do it.
Did ever tell you about the time, money, and labor I wasted "rebuilding" a perfectly good Pontiac 350 that I never even gave a compression test to? No? Well, what an ******* I was. Nothing got machined, I just measured and replaced stuff, put it all back together, and it smoked oil for 2 years until I finally was able to find another motor- that I used AS IS, just gave it the "$100 rebuild" and it lasted 10 years. But, you do what you want.....
That's a very true possibility. What about all the gunk in the cylinders right now? How to I clean them off? Looks like oil and rust. I think I might just remove heads and clean up in there. Clean up the heads and put new gaskets in. Is there a way to clean piston tops?
Your absolutely right. I think I'm just getting ahead of myself. I haven't even took the oil pan of to see what that looks like.
If you're very careful and confident in your abilities, scotch brite pads could work on the walls if it is really caked on there and if you plan on honing it really good before pistons and new rings, and probably ridge reaming. The new rings (you're doing that, right??) will NEVER seal against that. At this point, I just had my buick crack checked, hot tanked, and done 30 over for around 200$. If you're gonna do it, I suggest doing it right. First time buick Builder to another. I'd hate to see this awesome gem of an engine grenade due to some cost cutting. I'm sparing no expense, which is tough to do on a 7.25/hr income. 😀 OH. Fun little tidbit: The connecting rods on these buicks will only go on the cap a certain way, and it will feel VERY off if you have them wrong. The little indents for the bearings need to be on the same side of the big end of the rod. Also, when it goes back together, get some feeler gauges in between two rods on a given journal, find the biggest one that will fit, and torque the rod bolts to spec with them on both sides. Then take the feelers out and you should have no rubbing!
Thanks for the tip. I think I saw that in an episode of car TV or something. Using the gauges. So you are also building a Buick 350 also?
The problem with taking everything apart is simple. It's a whole lot harder putting it all back together- properly. Doing what I said in the "$100 rebuild" doesn't involve any machine work. Just cleaning, replacing common parts, and re-gasketing. Once you take heads apart, or pistons, you are pretty much obligated to re-machine all the surfaces. Simply honing and re-ringing is for racing engines with few miles on them. Old worn motors with a cylinder ridge require re-machining, maybe even new pistons, and that will cost real money. If money is not a problem than go for a total re-manufacture and don't look back.That's why I maintain that a compression test will quickly determine what the state of this clean looking motor really is. As for the gunk, just wash it out with some kerosene or mineral spirits, anything not explosive. Is this motor on a stand? Get a good one, like the 2000lb model Harbor Freight sells. Place a big tub under it, like for mixing cement. Face a spark plug hole straight up, pour in solvent, rotate the crank so the piston goes up and down at least 2 times, turn motor so the plug hole faces down, and drain. Repeat until it is fairly clean several times for each cylinder. Then let all solvent evaporate out and do the compression test. Have a compression tester? A good investment, like all engine tools. Can you measure cylinder taper? Out-of-round? Valve stem clearances? Deck height? Crankshaft journal clearances? End play? All these require tools you probably don't have. See how it snowballs out of control fast?
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