Olds 350 manual trans swap

[JAMCAR223]

I hope you mean Bernard Mondello.
Trust me; get the crank bored. I tried the conversion bearing, once. it's got to be right, or it will wipe the thrust bearing out. Bye, bye oil pressure! That ain't no fun.

I don't mind getting the crank drilled, it will be out anyway... but I did find this from Dick Miller Racing.

DMR-5022 Stick shift pilot bearing adapter. A new solution to an old problem. Convert a GM automatic transmission crankshaft to a manual shift crank without taking the crank out of the block. Knurled for a sure fit with self alignment for a perfect fit and smooth running and shifting. Requires modest shortening of input shaft with common tools. Also for engines that are using a midplate resulting in the transmission being moved rearward and not engaging the stock pilot bearing far enough. Fits Oldsmobile 260-455, Buick 350-455, Cadillac 400-500, Pontiac 326-455, and Chevrolet 305-502
* Tech tip says to use Red Loctite when installing.

 

[JAMCAR223]

One thing to keep in mind with the floor hump is they are copies of the one for the Saginaw shifter location. With the T10 you'll be putting it a little further back so expect to do some work to fit. But being a repop it'll need some work to even fit the Saginaw location as I noticed compairing the rotten original I was using.

Point taken. It seems I will be moving the "hump" a little rearward, so there will be a gap between the trans tunnel, and the aftermarket floor hump. I may need to fab something to fill that gap, in order to achieve a solid install???

 

[olds307 and 403]

A couple of threads that should help.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forum...bushings.html?highlight=Pilot+bushing+install
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forum...-install.html?highlight=Pilot+bushing+install

 

[fleming442]

When I get out to the garage in a bit, I'll post the drawing for the crank register.

 

[JAMCAR223]

olds307 and 403, I found those threads yesterday while searching the web. This statement is confusing to me...

"I have 3 403's and all have a drilled crank.
To me it is a very easy conversion. I hand drill the crank a little bigger than the snout of the trans and use the pilot adapter. No problems".

He's saying he drills out the crank, but then still uses the adapter... I'm under the impression you use the adapter when you don't drill the crank??

 

[DRIVEN]

I think maybe he is just drilling deeper so he doesn't have to cut the input shaft shorter.
BTW, a cutoff wheel on a grinder will nip the tip in short order. It's hardened so a hacksaw probably won't be much help.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I think maybe he is just drilling deeper so he doesn't have to cut the input shaft shorter.
BTW, a cutoff wheel on a grinder will nip the tip in short order. It's hardened so a hacksaw probably won't be much help.

I assume the same, otherwise why not use the factory part?

 

[JAMCAR223]

Bearing.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=272316274294

Bushing.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=192730922274

 

[JAMCAR223]

I think maybe he is just drilling deeper so he doesn't have to cut the input shaft shorter.
BTW, a cutoff wheel on a grinder will nip the tip in short order. It's hardened so a hacksaw probably won't be much help.

Sounds about right.

 

[fleming442]

I'm telling ya; you're asking for trouble. Yes, you have to drill the crank with the conversion bearing. You can cut the end off the input shaft, but you also may have to trim the shoulder where the splines start. I used an 11/16" bit on a big 1/2" drill.
Anyway, here's the measurements