The 350 flywheel will work, in fact a 400 and 455 flywheel will also work, same bolt pattern. Just get it balanced to your motor. Remember the 64 to 67 Olds motors with forged cranks have a different crank bolt pattern. The 350 has a lighter piston/rod combo, the later 400 may be lighter, tiny bore but a big rod and the 455 should heavier, same longer/heavier rod but a much big bore than the 400.
Shop around on that bracket and anything else you need clutch linkage, wise. OPGI is pretty proud of their stuff. All of the pedals, linkage, ball studs, etc. is reproduced and is available. All my stuff was worn out and hacked up (my frame bracket was good, and I think my clutch pedal just needs new bushings) so I bought a new equalizer (z-bar) and ball studs from the Parts Place. I'm going with the spherical rod end linkage.
Either way, I would have to have something machined. It may be easier to trim the T10 input shaft ( possibly myself ) than to have a machine shop counter-bore my crankshaft. Any advice from you guys?? Wondering how hard the input shaft is, and could I cut it with off the shelf blades?? I don't want to cut corners, but ... I will contact Mondello on Monday, for more info.
I hope you mean Bernard Mondello.
Trust me; get the crank bored. I tried the conversion bearing, once. it's got to be right, or it will wipe the thrust bearing out. Bye, bye oil pressure! That ain't no fun.
One thing to keep in mind with the floor hump is they are copies of the one for the Saginaw shifter location. With the T10 you'll be putting it a little further back so expect to do some work to fit. But being a repop it'll need some work to even fit the Saginaw location as I noticed compairing the rotten original I was using.
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