Order to upgrades?

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MakeMineaMonte

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 18, 2018
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Hello, everyone! I've been saving up to throw some money at my car ('86 Monte Carlo LS) and wondering, besides the engine, is there an order that people usually make upgrades to your car? i.e. Exhaust before xyz... Suspension after abc... etc? I'm thinking about suspension, exhaust, bodywork/paint, and rear end (posi) upgrade mainly, since the engine and interior are pretty good for now. Maybe this is a pretty basic question, so I apologize if it's been covered.
 
Hello, everyone! I've been saving up to throw some money at my car ('86 Monte Carlo LS) and wondering, besides the engine, is there an order that people usually make upgrades to your car? i.e. Exhaust before xyz... Suspension after abc... etc? I'm thinking about suspension, exhaust, bodywork/paint, and rear end (posi) upgrade mainly, since the engine and interior are pretty good for now. Maybe this is a pretty basic question, so I apologize if it's been covered.
If you’ve got the space to do it, I’d put in new body bushings and bolts first. Although that can get real hairy real fast if you’re in the rust belt.


From there, factory and aftermarket frame bracing, followed by a rear seat brace. A bar that ties the rear frame rails together has been known to make a world of difference.

Upgrade your suspension and brakes from there.
 
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Honestly, need more info.

Certain mods give more benefit than others based on what else is in the car and where you plan to take it.

Not saying it's the case, but a turbo LS motor needs a rear end where a stock 305 doesnt.

A factory v6 car that was previously swapped to a v8 may benefit from suspension overhaul where a 305 swapped to 350 might not need it right away.

Tell us more about your engine, trans, rear setup, and what's in the car - stock or previously upgraded - and you can get more advice.

GENERALLY, my order is do the cooling system if I can, then fuel upgrades, suspension for what I plan the drivetrain to be, then do my drivetrain and exhaust together. After that I do all my braces, bushings, etc, then body and paint with glass, finally interior last. Once it's ready to drive I buy my tires/wheels.
 
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Certain mods give more benefit than others based on what else is in the car and where you plan to take it.

Tell us more about your engine, trans, rear setup, and what's in the car - stock or previously upgraded - and you can get more advice.

GENERALLY, my order is do the cooling system if I can, then fuel upgrades, suspension for what I plan the drivetrain to be, then do my drivetrain and exhaust together. After that I do all my braces, bushings, etc, then body and paint with glass, finally interior last. Once it's ready to drive I buy my tires/wheels.

Ahhh, I hadn't really thought about it like that, but now it makes a lot of sense. So I'm pretty much learning as I go and doing all the work myself (within reason). It's mostly stock. Still has a 305. I've removed the AIR smog stuff and the AC, removed the cat, put in a new gas tank, plugs and wires, cleaned the carb, new floor pan... I actually haven't checked which trans I have yet. The frame is in really good shape. For me it's mostly a daily driver, BUT I want it to be a long-goal car.

EVENTUALLY I'd like to get at least a 350 in it and have it be more of a muscle car rather than just stock. I'd like to be able to take it to a drag strip if I want without being laughed at, but nothing crazy. I'd like the option to do burnouts. My plan was to upgrade components as I am able that will also fit my long term goals for it to be a car with some more muscle car flavor. I think putting in a new engine probably isn't in my price range right now, and I could just run it til it dies, but I figure if I upgrade everything else, it could be with parts that could handle a 350 with at least 300 HP.
 
If I had to do it all over again, do it opposite the way I did. LOL

If the car is running and moving, do the body, and interior first. Here's why. If you're two years into upgrades, and there is no end in sight, and it still looks like crap too, people often lose motivation and sell. If it at least looks nice and is comfortable, you'll have more motivation to keep working on it and finish your project. JMO
 
Ahhh, I hadn't really thought about it like that, but now it makes a lot of sense. So I'm pretty much learning as I go and doing all the work myself (within reason). It's mostly stock. Still has a 305. I've removed the AIR smog stuff and the AC, removed the cat, put in a new gas tank, plugs and wires, cleaned the carb, new floor pan... I actually haven't checked which trans I have yet. The frame is in really good shape. For me it's mostly a daily driver, BUT I want it to be a long-goal car.

EVENTUALLY I'd like to get at least a 350 in it and have it be more of a muscle car rather than just stock. I'd like to be able to take it to a drag strip if I want without being laughed at, but nothing crazy. I'd like the option to do burnouts. My plan was to upgrade components as I am able that will also fit my long term goals for it to be a car with some more muscle car flavor. I think putting in a new engine probably isn't in my price range right now, and I could just run it til it dies, but I figure if I upgrade everything else, it could be with parts that could handle a 350 with at least 300 HP.
300hp is very mild and attainable. IF you're happy with that, and sure you're going to stick with a traditional sbc and not an ls motor, then here's what I'd probably do.

1) I'd do headers and an exhaust. The same ones from a 305 will fit a 350, and, it's cheap while probably tied for the biggest performance upgrade you can notice until you swap the motor. Go true duals all the way back, and, no need to spend on a trans crossmember for now. A heat and beat will get you by while looking for a used gforce unit that matches your eventual long term transmission preference to be affordable.

2) I'd look for a cheap monte ss posi rear end to swap in. Whole thing, not just gears should run you $250 to $350, gives you 3.73 gearing. At 300hp you shouldn't hurt a 7.5 as long as you aren't done anything crazy, and, you can install c clip eliminators and service everything before the install. At the same time add the missing braces and bushings from the other car lineups like gp, cutlass, etc, and maybe a cheap fbody swaybars.

Thats probably $600-750 worth of work depending on your exhaust choices and deals you get.

After that I'd save up for a complete brake system overhaul. It's 35 years old and stopping better is nice. B body vacuum booster, bigger master cylinder, then do reading and thinking on what you want your brakes to be like. You can do an upsized rear cylinder and bigger bore front caliper all the way to 4 wheel discs and dual piston calipers on bigger rotors... all your choice. To make it more affordable you can get undesirable appearance pattern larger factory rims to clear big rotors if need be, save the $1500+ it'd take for nice new rims/tires for now.

After that I'd upgrade my cooling system, continue the pattern of reliable. Youll notice a pattern in my thinking - nothing worse than spending all the time and money on a car that's broken so often you can't enjoy it. By leaving the appearance stuff for last you don't need to worry about scratching shiny new paint or getting things dirty working on it, especially with so much to change.

At this point you've got your underlying systems all sorted out - fuel, air, spark, braking, cooling, rear end, they're all sbc compatible and everything was redone. You take a weekend and drop your new engine and trans in without being held up by the other stuff either not fitting right, something having a production error , something breaking during removal and needing fixing.

Maybe mixed in there you do some regasketing on valve covers if smoky, or oil pan if drippy. AGM battery in the biggest size that fits if yours weakens. Most stuff carries over to a 350/383/400/etc when the time comes.
 
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Whatever you do, don't make it into a non-running project for an extended period. You want to swap in a trans, rear or motor? Then have the component ready to roll completely assembled, ask questions about what will be needed before scattering it. Then get whatever upgrade you want to get done in less than a week to 9 days (9 days - start on Saturday and finish by the next weekend's Sunday.)

Only two things can take longer if its currently a running driving car - full paint job and an EFI swap (usually an LS).

For your modest HP goal, you can grab up a 350 and swap on a set of heads and cam and make 300 seem like a 'used to be' number lol.
 
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If I had to do it all over again, do it opposite the way I did. LOL

If the car is running and moving, do the body, and interior first. Here's why. If you're two years into upgrades, and there is no end in sight, and it still looks like crap too, people often lose motivation and sell. If it at least looks nice and is comfortable, you'll have more motivation to keep working on it and finish your project. JMO

This is my hardest point. If the car looks like crap to me, it doesn't matter what is done underneath, when you open the garage door and see a pile of crap it doesn't even make you think anything is done.
 
I agree that reliability needs to come first. I think a nice suspension/brake refresh would be high on the list of priorities. Those are things that are essential whether you stay with the 305 for now or swap it next week. SBC or LS will need brakes regardless. Springs would be the only thing swapped when the engine is swapped, and that's more so if you don't like the stance. Rear posi swap is good but I'd throw in bigger rear cylinders while youre in there. Its a great upgrade and I can imagine it being easier when the rear end isn't under the car yet. Blazer brake upgrade is another simple and effective upgrade to that brakes.

At that point, creature comfort upgrades as you see fit. I jumped in and added power windows and locks to my bare bones Monte SS. Also added power mirrors but that was more of a "can I do it" than a necessity by any means. I put the engine and the going fast idea lower on the list as I just wanted something that ran good, stopped when I needed to and didn't leave me stranded. Its been doing alright so far! Good luck and don't be afraid to ask for help, that's what were here for. Post some pictures of your ride!
 
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