Photo request ... lowering springs
- Thread starter jonnyslick
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would the 2" belltech drop spindles along with a 1" drop coil be too low you think?
Also, how does the drop spindle effect the geometry of the front end?
Also, how does the drop spindle effect the geometry of the front end?
jonnyslick said:
No exp with a drop spindle. I did see where a buddy was running them with Eibachs and he was bottoming out with his Monte SS on bumps. He's ss4ever. Maybe he'll chime in. Most of what I've read is negative on the drop spindles as it doesn't improve the geometry in any way.
I just dropped the money for a SC&C stage one. The 3" drop springs gave mine a nice stance, but I'm unable to get a good alignment. The stage one SPC arms and tall ball joint will allow for some ideal specs which will give me some handling improvement and stability. I went with their tall upper ball joint so I would NOT affect the ride height, but if want to go with the tall lower, that'll give you .5-.75" more of a drop, which might go well with Eibachs or Hotchkis or 2" OPG drop springs.
See that's kinda' where I'm at. I mean I want better suspension like NOW ... but my budget at this point is really only enough for springs and shocks and bushings. So ... I just keep telling myself to be patient and just wait a bit longer and save up some cash to do it right.
Because eventually I'll be going with the SC&C system anyway, so I might as well just wait a little bit longer and do it right the first time through, especially since I hear the front suspenision on these cars is not the most fun experience in the world.
I'm still trying to figure out what will be the best way to go in SC&C -vs- Global West and the negative roll system they have. I talked to John, IIRC, over at SC&C and really liked his outlook and view on things related to g-body's and the fact they tune ACTUAL g-bodies for racing.
I still want to do a cost analysis of the two to see which is the best "bang for the buck" ... but I suspect it's SC&C.
The one thing that bothered me about SC&C, again IIRC, is that their coilover kit didn't have the spring rates I need and they don't carry springs and they said I'd have to go through a 3rd party to get my spring rates and ride heigth sorted out (which I know nothing about in the aspect of starting basically from scratch). I need 750lbs up front and around 250-275 for the rears (according to SC&C).
I don't know. I'll prob. just go for the stiffest spring/shock combo I can find for now and then just start collecting all the SC&C parts to do it all at once. I really hate to have to do a job 2x, but when you start adding up all the parts it dips into the $3k range (not including brakes and rear end).
Because eventually I'll be going with the SC&C system anyway, so I might as well just wait a little bit longer and do it right the first time through, especially since I hear the front suspenision on these cars is not the most fun experience in the world.
I'm still trying to figure out what will be the best way to go in SC&C -vs- Global West and the negative roll system they have. I talked to John, IIRC, over at SC&C and really liked his outlook and view on things related to g-body's and the fact they tune ACTUAL g-bodies for racing.
I still want to do a cost analysis of the two to see which is the best "bang for the buck" ... but I suspect it's SC&C.
The one thing that bothered me about SC&C, again IIRC, is that their coilover kit didn't have the spring rates I need and they don't carry springs and they said I'd have to go through a 3rd party to get my spring rates and ride heigth sorted out (which I know nothing about in the aspect of starting basically from scratch). I need 750lbs up front and around 250-275 for the rears (according to SC&C).
I don't know. I'll prob. just go for the stiffest spring/shock combo I can find for now and then just start collecting all the SC&C parts to do it all at once. I really hate to have to do a job 2x, but when you start adding up all the parts it dips into the $3k range (not including brakes and rear end).
I have Global West uppers for the negative roll setup, and have heard bad things about them due to bump steer issues. I am trying to mathematically figure out a way around this. Also, lowering springs take away caster, and along with it, high speed stability and on center steering feel.
Thats your best bet. Get all your parts together and do the swap once and do it right.
You know, if you want to go a cheaper route, get a set of Moog 5658's up front, a KYB shock and an SC&C stage 1 with the tall lower ball joints instead of the uppers. That will get you a 2.25-2.5" drop up front for not alot of money. Add a 36mm hollow front sway bar from an f-body and you'll have a good riding, firm handling front end. Cost would be around $650 for parts and your front end is done. With those parts you could run +5 caster, -1.5 camber and an 1/8 toe. High speed stability with tight cornering.
You know, if you want to go a cheaper route, get a set of Moog 5658's up front, a KYB shock and an SC&C stage 1 with the tall lower ball joints instead of the uppers. That will get you a 2.25-2.5" drop up front for not alot of money. Add a 36mm hollow front sway bar from an f-body and you'll have a good riding, firm handling front end. Cost would be around $650 for parts and your front end is done. With those parts you could run +5 caster, -1.5 camber and an 1/8 toe. High speed stability with tight cornering.
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
If I would you, I'd sell off that setup... I think there are more drawbacks to it than just bump steer in terms of weight, slowing the steering ratio and track width of the front wheels.
Budget rear: Moog 5413 (lowers the rear about an 1") or the Autozone crossover RCS5413S which are a little cheaper. KYB shocks, Factory control arms, with the lowers boxed and an aftermarket 1" sway bar.
Total $275
Total $275
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