I'm using a inch pound one but its 0-25-50 and so on. I guess i really need a different one. Thank you for all your help so far. By the way the bearings are tight as the flange has no grooves.
Pinion seal replacement 7.5 rear
- Thread starter jphillips
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when I do a rear end I don't read that torque. I just adjust it so there is a little resistance. Once you put it back together just make sure there is about 20 inch lbs on it and you'll be fine. While you have the axles out how are your axle seals. Now might be a time to change those as well and you should check the axles to see if the bearings are making any grooves on the axles.
The axles look good i got new axles seals too, figured it would be a good idea to change them. Should there be 20 inch pounds with the axles in or out?
Do NOT use an impact gun. It's way too easy to accidentally overdo it and ruin the crush collar. ( ask me why I know this 
) The easiest way is to count the exposed threads on the pinion (write it down), and chisel a hash mark on the nut and head of the pinion. That way you can return the nut to the exact same position. Then check the inch pounds torque it takes to turn the nut, while making sure the brakes are backed off so they don't affect the reading. Go ahead and change the seal, remember to use sealer on the companion flange splines, or oil will leak down the shaft. When you're done, recheck the torque, it should be the same. Unless you are changing axle seals, leave them alone, they are a LOT of work, and if the carrier shaft bolt breaks (as they often do) you will be kicking yourself. I know it's apart already, but this technique is for the other guys reading this.
) The easiest way is to count the exposed threads on the pinion (write it down), and chisel a hash mark on the nut and head of the pinion. That way you can return the nut to the exact same position. Then check the inch pounds torque it takes to turn the nut, while making sure the brakes are backed off so they don't affect the reading. Go ahead and change the seal, remember to use sealer on the companion flange splines, or oil will leak down the shaft. When you're done, recheck the torque, it should be the same. Unless you are changing axle seals, leave them alone, they are a LOT of work, and if the carrier shaft bolt breaks (as they often do) you will be kicking yourself. I know it's apart already, but this technique is for the other guys reading this.
Little update. Put the new seal in. Put sealer in the splines. All back together. Tightened the pinion nut up. Still only have 10 inch pounds of rolling torque.
My 1983 Pontiac manual says: just pinion gear alone- pinion nut pre-load w/used bearings is 10-15 inch pounds. Total assembly (axles and all) w/used bearings is 20-25 inch pounds.
An impact gun will only get you so far in tightening the nut, unless 1- you have the yoke RIGIDLY held and 2 - you have a GOOD impact gun that hits hard. The crush collar resists deformation enough to make any further tightening difficult unless things are just right.
You can use two long section of pipe (3ft or so) as leverage for additional torque to help crush the collar.
Unless you have that "magic stick" OEM special tool that bolts to the yoke to hold it, you can use a large pipe wrench with a pipe extension to hold the yoke from rotating. Then use another pipe extension on the 1/2 inch breaker bar youre using on the nut.
If the axle is on the floor, pin the yoke side to the ground via its lever/pipe and crank away.
BE AWARE: rotating torque climbs QUICKLY with small adjustments to the nut. Go a little at a time. You dont want to overtorque the crush collar.
You can use two long section of pipe (3ft or so) as leverage for additional torque to help crush the collar.
Unless you have that "magic stick" OEM special tool that bolts to the yoke to hold it, you can use a large pipe wrench with a pipe extension to hold the yoke from rotating. Then use another pipe extension on the 1/2 inch breaker bar youre using on the nut.
If the axle is on the floor, pin the yoke side to the ground via its lever/pipe and crank away.
BE AWARE: rotating torque climbs QUICKLY with small adjustments to the nut. Go a little at a time. You dont want to overtorque the crush collar.
Okay. Sorry I'm being difficult with this. I checked it again tonight. When i start to rotate it. It takes about 22-23 inch pounds to start to move it. Once its rolling faster its only reading about 13. Should i try to tighten it or leave it alone?
First, is it just the pinion? Or the whole rear? Have you oiled the bearings? Do so. Any sealer get on the seal? Is the companion flange seal surface clean and smooth? It "should" turn easily, and smoothly.
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