Power window puzzle

[UNGN]

if you go back to that thread you will see it does work on a G body, the diagram was missing a ground on the 87A which Jared remembered after it was figured out what was missing. My windows are working quicker with the help from Jared and the diagram.

Sure.

All you have to do is add wires that aren't shown in the wiring diagram and works great!

I'm pretty sure that is not how "wiring diagrams" are supposed to work.

 

[Racechaser]

when it comes down to electrical issues, alot of us are a little gunshy about coming up with answers to keep you from chasing your tail...

then there are people like me that are complete morons when it comes to electrical....😵

have you tried connecting up to a loose motor and seeing if the switch will work it? it's a long shot, but I have seen a regulator jam before...

*edit: on the extra wire for ground...started remembering my install on the Regal project... I installed a p/w setup from a cutlass (can't remember what year ) on my regal, and there was an extra ground wire that grounded on the driver's door, and the windows wouldn't work without it grounded out. HTH

I'm a member of that electrical moron's club lol. But, have the same attitude that my dad did, if someone built it, I ought to be able to take it apart and put it back together and make it work. Logic and automotive electrics don't nessesarily go hand and hand. Had not occurred to me to hook a loose motor to the switch, did run a loose motor clamped to battery to confirm what I was seeing about grounds and reverse polarity motors. But... if it was a jammed regulator, wouldn't the other side still work? Both sides are the issue. Takes me back to a grounding problem... By the way, sorry for the somewhat snotty reaction on the previous post, this is just frustrating, and I spouted off.

 

[Racechaser]

I have a spare connector for the driver's side and there is a ground wire which I forgot about and is not in the diagram. Did you test the wiring with a multimeter?

Good point...May be enough electricity to light the test light, but not enough to operate the motor. I don't have a multimeter, (usually try to stay away from electrical problems...lol.) but I have access to one. Will try that route tomorrow afternoon.

 

[Racechaser]

Sure.

All you have to do is add wires that aren't shown in the wiring diagram and works great!

I'm pretty sure that is not how "wiring diagrams" are supposed to work.

Have to agree, but the issue seems to be that there are two wiring diagrams for different years, and the one posted is the default that shows up on the search...

 

[pontiacgp]

Sure.

All you have to do is add wires that aren't shown in the wiring diagram and works great!

I'm pretty sure that is not how "wiring diagrams" are supposed to work.

that's true but for 30 year old cars we may not get the correct information spoon fed to us so it's lucky that there are some who can figure out there is a ground wire missing on pin 87A on the relay. I didn't mind the problem and as I understand you bought the kit someone else built to install so I don't understand why you are so concerned with an issue that was rectified.

 

[UNGN]

Have to agree, but the issue seems to be that there are two wiring diagrams for different years, and the one posted is the default that shows up on the search...

I was referring to another wiring diagram posted in another thread that is also posted as the "default" when anyone asked for a way to make their power windows faster and it too wasn't correct for all but maybe a couple of G-bodies, but yeah, the internet is full of bad advice and assumptions.

The Diagram I posted should be correct.

The Circuit Breaker could be bad, not allowing any amps to pass. If its tripping at 2 amps instead of 30, the windows won't work. I would swap that first. Especially if you are seeing light at the motor wires.