Problems with heater controls

[pokertramp]

I just picked up a 1982 Buick Regal Somerset Limited and have been going threw the whole car. The problem is when I put the Fan switch to High the motor shuts off. Also I can't adjust to the vents, It stays on the defrosters and floor all the time.

Do I need to replace the switches? OR is it because the car originally had A/C and now it doesn't? It's not the original motor so there is no A/C compressor.

 

[Geesie]

The fan switch should probably be replaced and they aren't expensive - less than $10.

The other stuff - I don't know. I've been trying to figure out why my Regal doesn't blow right, too.

 

[megaladon6]

i agree that the fan is most likely the switch, but i'd get a wiring diagram and a multimeter and test it and the resistor block first.
as to where the air blows from, that's usually a vacuum problem. make sure that the line is connected to the carb, and that it can hold vacuum. then check the doors for freedom of movement.

 

[pokertramp]

i agree that the fan is most likely the switch, but i'd get a wiring diagram and a multimeter and test it and the resistor block first.
as to where the air blows from, that's usually a vacuum problem. make sure that the line is connected to the carb, and that it can hold vacuum. then check the doors for freedom of movement.

DUH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I missed the most obvious, Thanks I will check it out tomorrow. I will have to fish around and find which line goes to the carb as it' s not the original engine and has a 4 barrel Edelbrock

I seen a thin purple line connected to a gray one, I wonder if that's it? None of them go to the motor. The doors move fine, I did the heater core yesterday.

Thanks again and I'll let ya know how I make out.

 

[megaladon6]

I seen a thin purple line connected to a gray one

that sounds like it.
i did forget that there's that lovely mess of vac lines and solenoids, switches, and T's so the line may not have been connected directly to the intake/carb. but it can be, i believe it uses a constant manifold vac source.

 

[Geesie]

I actually looked at my engine compartment vacuum lines yesterday when I was trying to diagnose the problem for myself...

Under the hood, one vacuum line goes directly to the heater core to open the flow of coolant. The other goes to a T, with one line going to the vacuum reservoir and the other to the carburetor.

 

[pokertramp]

I actually looked at my engine compartment vacuum lines yesterday when I was trying to diagnose the problem for myself...

Under the hood, one vacuum line goes directly to the heater core to open the flow of coolant. The other goes to a T, with one line going to the vacuum reservoir and the other to the carburetor.

I take it yours is an A/C car? There is no more valve going to the heater core on mine. Also there is no T-fitting. If it doesn't rain today I will have to try and see if it works directly to the card and I will cap off the other.

I think one draws a vacuum when you put the A/C on and shuts the coolant flow off.

 

[dougfather]

I have the same problem with my 84 GP, like I did with my 81 Cutlass. The only time the vents would work is if I had the selector on MAX A/C, coasting downhill, foot off the gas. The floor/vent door made a creaking sound and struggled to open. I am planning on ditching that setup

 

[Geesie]

Mine is an AC car, though the previous owner yanked the compressor motor.

I just determined some other things in my particular case. When I move the selector around, the air will at some point come out the windshield vents, the dash vents, and the floor vent - but not when it should. So the doors on mine all work but the selector doesn't, I guess.
I ordered a new vacuum selector, I'll see if that works when it arrives in a few days. (also ordered a new fan switch and fan since it only blows on high and it isn't very strong)

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

The main vacuum feed line to the dash switch is purple under the hood, and will have the vacuum cannister in line with it. There should also be a one way check valve in line with this line to prevent vacuum bleed off under hard acceleration. I am trying to work this stuff out right now too, and have the complete diagrams from GM to work from. If I could configure my all in one, I would scan and post them here. BTW, if the line is not hooked up, it has a default position of defrost/floor heat as a safety measure. if this is all you get, the vac line is not hooked up. Also, the blower resistor is not in resistance mode at high. It is in all other modes. There is also a blower motor relay in the system. Both are located on the top of the suitcase with the resistor in the airstream of the fan, and the resistor is a silver or black box hanging off the edge behind the accumulator.