problems with my truck

[wonderboy24]

as a ford tech for almost 30 years it dont have a bcm, to old. Does ck engine lite come on with the key? Can you hear fuel pump turn on for approx 5 seconds? dbl ck all fuses and fuses under the hood, Im gonna look up wiring now, there is another fuse for the psom (speedometer) the psom takes the abs sensor reading and sends digital signal to pcm, the abs sensor is a voltage generator that makes its own signal with no external power sources applied to it. Ok ck fuse 8 as well. see if fuse 15 has power, both 15 and 18 recieve power from same source. Which is powered by fuse 10 under the hood which shows it is for the start curcuit too, hope this helps

yes the check engine comes on when the key is turned on. everything works turn siganls, battery light,radio.brites i can hear the pump. if i jumper the solenoid on the fire wall the truck will run . the fuses are all good. just the key wont turn the engine over and the speedo dont work nor the odometer .i removed the fuse for the 18 and checked both sides to see if i get power and there is no power there.

 

[wonderboy24]

Fusible links ?

i thought that as well but didnt know if it would make the odometer read out not show

 

[Cutlass400hp1986]

Scoot-71 made some excellent suggestions and yes he’s correct that truck has no bcm


The lock cylinder won’t be a issue as long as it turns, it would only matter on the actual electric switch bolted behind it. If you were able to jump it from the solenoid and it started, it would sort of eliminate that the starter is bad....UNLESS it has a intermittent short. I know you said you replaced both of these things, BUT I’m a mechanic and I would bet you bought a advanced auto, auto zone or pep boys parts, and it would also bet they are made in China... what I’m getting at is, most of today’s aftermarket parts are hit or miss. I see it all the time.. sometimes we have cars towed back in the shop 2-3 times replacing electrical parts that we installed that are only a few months old...it’s so frustrating... I’m not saying those are your issue but if you have a warranty on those parts, maybe try to get another starter solenoid first and see if that’s a issue?
Also check your battery cables and grounds, take them off and clean them good with a wire brush.
Also those trucks had had mAny Corrosion issues inside of the engine computer, had one a few years back that started and ran but shifted very hard, took the computer out and opened it up to find the corrosion... luckily you can buy those aftermarket for under $200... but that issue for that particular truck was the super hard shifting, wasn’t a starting issue and shouldn’t effect it to not crank anyway.

Did you try to turn the key to crank and at the same time juggle the shifter to see if it starts, or try to start in in neutral.. could be a bad neutral safety switch or the switch might just need adjusting...

 

[wonderboy24]

Scoot-71 made some excellent suggestions and yes he’s correct that truck has no bcm


The lock cylinder won’t be a issue as long as it turns, it would only matter on the actual electric switch bolted behind it. If you were able to jump it from the solenoid and it started, it would sort of eliminate that the starter is bad....UNLESS it has a intermittent short. I know you said you replaced both of these things, BUT I’m a mechanic and I would bet you bought a advanced auto, auto zone or pep boys parts, and it would also bet they are made in China... what I’m getting at is, most of today’s aftermarket parts are hit or miss. I see it all the time.. sometimes we have cars towed back in the shop 2-3 times replacing electrical parts that we installed that are only a few months old...it’s so frustrating... I’m not saying those are your issue but if you have a warranty on those parts, maybe try to get another starter solenoid first and see if that’s a issue?
Also check your battery cables and grounds, take them off and clean them good with a wire brush.
Also those trucks had had mAny Corrosion issues inside of the engine computer, had one a few years back that started and ran but shifted very hard, took the computer out and opened it up to find the corrosion... luckily you can buy those aftermarket for under $200... but that issue for that particular truck was the super hard shifting, wasn’t a starting issue and shouldn’t effect it to not crank anyway.

Did you try to turn the key to crank and at the same time juggle the shifter to see if it starts, or try to start in in neutral.. could be a bad neutral safety switch or the switch might just need adjusting...

i try to never buy from local stores any more. i got the starter from my normal source. rock auto lol they might be the same. i actually just not to long ago replaced the cables and ends. as far as the safty neutral switch i am going to reinstall the cluster tommorow and check that.but would that cause the odometer not to work?

 

[Scoot-71]

If the fuse under the hood is good, and you have no power at fuse 18 under dash then the only thing it could be is an open wire from underhood fuse to the switch or switch itself which you already replaced so it kinda illiminates that. make sure underhood fuse is good otherwise you chase your tail

 

[Scoot-71]

I have had fuses test good at their terminals on the top to find they are bad below, between the top and bottom if that makes sense, I have the pics of wiring schematics but i cant get them to transfer to here, its not the lock cyl, if you have no power on fuse 18 you need to look why its not there, bad wire from fuse 10 under hood or you missed a blown fuse

 

[wonderboy24]

as a ford tech for almost 30 years it dont have a bcm, to old. Does ck engine lite come on with the key? Can you hear fuel pump turn on for approx 5 seconds? dbl ck all fuses and fuses under the hood, Im gonna look up wiring now, there is another fuse for the psom (speedometer) the psom takes the abs sensor reading and sends digital signal to pcm, the abs sensor is a voltage generator that makes its own signal with no external power sources applied to it. Ok ck fuse 8 as well. see if fuse 15 has power, both 15 and 18 recieve power from same source. Which is powered by fuse 10 under the hood which shows it is for the start curcuit too, hope this helps

think i am getting closer. i went out this morning and found a port in the fuse box that is hot all the time and made a jumper wire. i went from the port that is hot all the time to one of the ports where the 18 fuse is and now the odometer is working truck is shifting as it should but the key isnt working still.replaced the number 10 fuse and the 15 and 18 fuse before i jumpered it and it was still the same.

 

[Scoot-71]

that fuse 10 in underhood panel feeds the start circuit at the ign switch too,

 

[Scoot-71]

hope this pic helps

 

[wonderboy24]

thanks i dont understand these lol. i got the repair manuel but it dont have the fuse box. witch wire is it if you dont mind