PROJECT " LAID BACK 2 " - 1978 SALON 2 DOOR AEROBACK
- Thread starter JAMCAR223
- Start date
- Status
Thank you, James,
For some strange reason I was under the impression that it was a 16" rim. Thank you for clarifying that. It makes sense that it would correspond with the regular size wheel when inflated.
Last edited:
It's been a couple weeks, but I have made progress on the new shop space, and the car. I've had 2 weekends to move and organize, and I'm still not done. I have moved the car, so it is dry, secure, and finally out of my driveway. I started with a trip to Home Depot to buy some wood for a new work bench, and peg board. I measured out all the pieces and wrote them down before the trip, and had Home Depot cut all my pieces for me ( nice square cuts, and no mess to clean up ). It was $99.18
Tools needed for the bench and peg board
Legs are (2) 2x4's screwed together. Cheaper than buying 4x4's.
Framing the top of the bench with 2x4's
Mounting the legs to the bench top.
Adding center supports to the bench top.
Framing the bottom of the legs. The bench is upside down at this time.
Framing the peg board with 1x2 strips.
The bench is 7'x3'. The peg board is 7'x4' and is attached to the bench top with (3) L-shape brackets. I attached the top of the peg board to the red iron beam with self tapping screws. Solid and level.
Tools needed for the bench and peg board
Legs are (2) 2x4's screwed together. Cheaper than buying 4x4's.
Framing the top of the bench with 2x4's
Mounting the legs to the bench top.
Adding center supports to the bench top.
Framing the bottom of the legs. The bench is upside down at this time.
Framing the peg board with 1x2 strips.
The bench is 7'x3'. The peg board is 7'x4' and is attached to the bench top with (3) L-shape brackets. I attached the top of the peg board to the red iron beam with self tapping screws. Solid and level.
I did have a miscommunication with the leasing associate at the time of signing the lease... I do NOT have a 220 outlet. I have an RV ( recreational vehicle ) outlet. 🙁 . Thank goodness I did not buy a 60 gallon compressor, like I had almost done twice! So... the biggest compressor I can buy with a 110 outlet is 33 gallons. I had pretty much settled on the Craftsman, but it was $399 ( I could buy a nice used 60 gallon for $50 more than that... ). So I started the hunt. I found this on FB listed for $155. I offered $125, but he wasn't having that. I gave in, and paid $130. Nice! Works great, no leaks! I know it will get me through the sanding, prep, and primer phase. I'm keeping my fingers crossed on the HVLP spray gun. We'll see...
Ordered my Dura-Block sanding block kit, and a 2nd Body Panel stand.
I also got (4) 8 ft LED shop lights. They were delivered today, and I will try to get them installed tomorrow. I have to hard wire them, and make up some plugs. I'd rather work on the car, so we'll see.
Ordered my Dura-Block sanding block kit, and a 2nd Body Panel stand.
I also got (4) 8 ft LED shop lights. They were delivered today, and I will try to get them installed tomorrow. I have to hard wire them, and make up some plugs. I'd rather work on the car, so we'll see.
So you guys thought all I do is buy parts... 😊. I started the tear down yesterday. You may recall, the previous owner had an issue with the trunk lock, and had used a pry bar to try to get in... NOT! He pryed so hard he buckled the trunk lid! Jacked up the pinch weld where the weatherstripping mounts. Months ago I had to remove the rear seat and unbolt the trunk latch from inside the car. I installed a different lock cylinder from the parts car I had a few months back. Problem solved, but I still had a jacked up trunk lid. So... I removed that trunk lid yesterday and pre-fit the new trunk. All good there. I then removed all the chrome trim, to get ready for sanding.
I fixed the pinch weld near the trunk latch with a hammer. and piece of wood.
AS you can see, I also removed the bumper, tail lights, fillers ( broken all to pieces ), then pre-fit the new license plate filler. All good. I removed the original steel hood, most of the chrome trim, seats, console, and carpet. I was happy to see very little signs of rust, and a very nice cowl area. I have 2 small areas to fix on the floor. Very easy repair, and the floor is overall really solid.
I'll have more tomorrow.
I fixed the pinch weld near the trunk latch with a hammer. and piece of wood.
AS you can see, I also removed the bumper, tail lights, fillers ( broken all to pieces ), then pre-fit the new license plate filler. All good. I removed the original steel hood, most of the chrome trim, seats, console, and carpet. I was happy to see very little signs of rust, and a very nice cowl area. I have 2 small areas to fix on the floor. Very easy repair, and the floor is overall really solid.
I'll have more tomorrow.
Last edited:
Off to an excellent start. That compressor was a pretty good score.
One little thing I noticed was the emblem that USED to be on the rear deck lid was the thinner and open-leg "M" version for 85-up, GM p/n 20000969. You may or may not care, but the more pronounced and correct for your year version is the 84-back version, GM p/n 555735 (it's also a postal code in Singapore). If you want to be period correct. And assuming you want to replace the emblem. Don't advise getting the repro as it appears it's a mashup between the 969 and 735 emblems. Never actually had one of the repros in my hands, but the pictures say it's just not correct.
One little thing I noticed was the emblem that USED to be on the rear deck lid was the thinner and open-leg "M" version for 85-up, GM p/n 20000969. You may or may not care, but the more pronounced and correct for your year version is the 84-back version, GM p/n 555735 (it's also a postal code in Singapore). If you want to be period correct. And assuming you want to replace the emblem. Don't advise getting the repro as it appears it's a mashup between the 969 and 735 emblems. Never actually had one of the repros in my hands, but the pictures say it's just not correct.
I am in the same boat, one 20 amp breaker to my shop. I added 2 15 amp power bars, and used my my old super loud and barely functioning 20 gallon Coleman air compressor, now just for air storage in line with this, expensive but worth it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Portable-Compressor-Gallon-HP02P020SSby-EMAX/dp/B07713S5P8&ved=2ahUKEwims4XluNDkAhXuHjQIHdvaDCEQFjAKegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw1pI3W-jwXBoKIb0gRyNnLZ
Super quiet, seriously my fridge is louder sometimes and powerful. 40 gallons of 125 psi is awesome.
Last edited by a moderator:
Nice to see you making progress, James.
No grass grows under your feet. 😆
No grass grows under your feet. 😆
Thanks guys for the responses, and your support. Today I removed the front bumper, fillers, header panel, and fenders. I Did some measuring for mounting the LED shop lights. I also did some cleaning up, and swept the shop. Called it a day... I work on Sundays... so back to work tomorrow. It will be 4 days before I can get back to the shop. Next goal is to get all the chrome trim off the car - windshield, rear glass, upper trim on the doors, and around the windows. Then I'll start bodyworking one panel at a time.
- Status
Similar threads
