Alright, so it looks like we’re due for an unscheduled update on the drivetrain.
Why?
Because “Gary”.
😛
In all seriousness though, I really should’ve covered it here in the thread before embarking on the body repairs. That’s my own fault, and I take full responsibility for the flak you guys feel necessary to put me through!
Lol
Ok, to adequately describe what was done and why, we need to start near the beginning. When I purchased the car, part of the reason I got it for a song was because the engine was hurt. While fine at part throttle and below, the little 305 that was originally in it would pop, sputter and backfire through the carb with anything more.
Myself and friends tried everything we could think of to try and fix the problem. Rocker adjustments, ATF down the carb in case the valves were carboned up, timing, idle, you name it. But ultimately it was plain old worn out with a flat camshaft.
Scouring the online classifieds, I came across an ad for a supposedly low mile Gen I Chevy 350 for $350. Perfect. I know and understand these old motors, it was exactly what I was looking for. Only problem was, with nothing available locally, this one was a 3 hour drive north.
Road trip!
Loading my four legged buddy Tucker in the truck, we headed up early on Saturday morning. The seller was upfront and accommodating, explaining the engine came out of his brothers abandoned project truck. He claimed it was a Goodwrench 350, and although it hadn’t run in a couple years, it was in good condition with less than 60,000 miles on it.
Ever doubtful, I asked if he would mind if I pulled the plugs and rolled it over. He told me to do what I felt necessary, so after spinning it over on the engine stand a couple of times, I shone a flashlight in one of the plug holes and had a look at the top of a piston.
I couldn’t believe what I was seeing! Nice clean piston top, no carbon buildup, hell, I could even make out the valve reliefs perfectly!
Sold, done deal. Noting that it was just the bare long block, I asked if he had any of the peripherals that went along with it. After digging through his stash, I had nearly everything I’d need:
Balancer, flex plate, 3 water pumps, 2 starters. Pulleys, brackets, plus a few other things that went with, that he didn’t figure he’d need anymore. Score!
After getting it home and on the stand, I tore down the top end and pulled the oil pan. Here’s what it looked like at that point:
Imagine my pleasure at finding out it was a factory 4 bolt main block!
On the top end of things, this is the “as found” condition of the pistons and bores. While I’ve cleaned the block to head mating surfaces in these pics, the pistons and bores are untouched from the purchase:
Satisfied that things were looking really good so far, I yanked the timing chain and camshaft. This is where I found some oddities. While the lifter lobes on the cam all looked good, the fuel pump lobe was completely wiped out. I mean totally. It was round, it had worn down so far!
Odd...
You may have noticed in the pic above that the oil pump pickup had moved as well. It had somehow slumped down and the leading edge was resting on the bottom of the pan. None of these findings were a big deal tho, the cam was going to be replaced with something bigger anyways, and the oil pump was replaced with a better one as well.
After the oil pump was replaced, I tack welded the pickup to the pump body so it wouldn’t move again.
I pulled the bearing cap to replace the rear main seals, and the crankshaft bearing half looked great. Not feeling the need to reinvent the wheel, I left the bottom end completely alone. This was originally intended to be a budget build, so I didn’t want to completely blow the thing apart and spend a bunch of money on machine work, etc.
With the bottom end solid, I could concentrate on putting the money into the stuff that actually makes horsepower!
Knowing that factory Vortec cylinder heads were perhaps the best kept factory head secret, I decided to avoid getting a bunk set from the junkyard, and ordered a brand new set from my local GM performance parts dealer and his catalog.
🙂
Here’s one of the new heads fresh outta the box!
Gotta mock it up of course...
By this time, it was really starting to come together. I had the rear main seal replaced, the oil pump replaced, the pickup welded. The pan was back on, some of the accessories were installed, and it was bathed in GM corporate blue. After a brief conversation with Comp Cams, I went with their recommendation for a camshaft. It’s the biggest one I could go with for use with a stock stall converter:
After installing it in the block, it was degreed and installed “straight up”. Utilizing some old school cheap and easy tricks, I went with the thinnest head gaskets possible (to bump up the CR), and bought a set of Comp roller tip rocker arms. 1.6 ratio over the stock 1.5, to give me a little more lift.
With as much valve lift as I now had, I was getting close to the maximum I could run before I ran into coil bind. I don’t recall the exact number anymore, but with anything over that number, the spring bosses need to be milled down. Again in the spirit of saving money and being more “hands on”, I did it myself. Comp Cams sells the tool, and with a little patience and making many stops to measure, I did them all at home with nothing more than a hand drill.
Once that was done, things could start to go together final:
Time to button up the top end. A buddy of mine had an aluminum Vortec intake manifold that I managed to talk him out of, I traded him a refrigerated dryer for his air system for it!
In keeping with the sleeper/stealth theme, it was installed and then carefully masked off and painted blue as well. I picked up an aluminum Weiand water pump and new aluminum thermostat housing, they were both given the exact same treatment.
As for the valve covers, I wanted to use a factory style as the center bolt ones are a dead giveaway that something’s been changed. A set of adapters were shipped from Speedway Motors, they seal to the heads with an o-ring on the head side, and use a conventional gasket on the top. They’re held in place at the center bolt locations.
Believe it or not, I actually had to go searching at the junkyard for a decent set of original valve covers. The ones that came on the 305 when I bought the car were M/T aftermarket ones, and leaked like a sieve.
The junkyard ones were cleaned up, sand blasted, painted and installed.
And that pretty much finishes off the long block assembly. There’s a bit more to cover on the engine yet but I’m going to leave that for now, and cover that in the next update. Which will hopefully be tomorrow.
Until then, here’s a few more pics as it was continuing to come together:
Thanks for following along everyone.
Until tomorrow...
D.