Project regress

[Streetbu]

You could also just buy new mounts from UMI and not have to cut anything... I used these with the factory rubber frame side mounts to get the clearance on my '78 Malibu with a sbc. Worked like a charm.

Home - UMI Performance Inc.

umiperformance.com

 

[CopperNick]

For CDunigan1981, The board and jack placed under the oil pan is a method, I would not personally suggest. The why comes in two reasons, the first being that jacking on the oil pan, even with the board there, can cause the bottom of the pan to cave in. Too much cave and you lose the clearance between the oil pump pickup and the bottom of the pan, which can ultimately result in a very unhappy and blown up motor. The other point is that lifting the motor to drop the pipes while offering some advantage, isn't, strictly speaking, absolutely necessary in a lot of cases. Case in point, both Flowmasters are supposed to be installed from underneath. Instead of lifting the motor, you lift the whole car. With a set of 5ton floor stands, it only took about 3 teeth showing on the jack leg to get enough room between the car and the ground to easily slide the pipes in and rotate them up and into position. Total bummer that they didn't fit but the installation method worked like a charm. As for the Hedman's they suggest that one can go in from above and the other has to go in from underneath. Will see how that works when the time comes; it has been accurate in the past. If you are stuck with the board and jack routine, then as soon as you get the mounting bolts for the front motor mounts out and the engine high enough, then jam a short chunk of 2x4 in between the mounting ears on the engine clam, so the piece of wood sits on the frame shell, and then let the motor come down gently so the engine mounts rest on the wood instead of bedding back in. This should give you enough height to wriggle around in. As a caution, I would back off the transmission mount bolt, not remove it, just back it out a few turns. This gives the motor a little more room to rise without losing any alignment that you have.

Nick

 

[565bbchevy]

The only differences between the two variants listed is that one is offered with a 1/4" flange and polished finish on the coating, the other comes in dull or matte finish but with a 3/8ths" flange thickness

I find it hard to believe that the same company would have two different thicknesses for the header flange for the same application, doesn't sound very cost effective.

 

[CopperNick]

Took a peek at the mounts that StreetBu suggested and both they and the price look good. Only catch I can see is that of the budget $$$$. the classic dilemma of build vs buy. Think that, for myself, I would go with the DIY method simply because I have the time and the tools to make the option of whittling one out of a stocker a viable choice. Not knocking the buy it idea. It does save time and test fits; it's more a case of investing the time and work to produce a custom item that the builder can point to with pride and say, "I made that". IMHO.

Nick

 

[pagrunt]

The Elites have the thicker 3/8" flanges & 14 gauge steel tubes with the HTC coating for their top line headers as the standard line have the thinner flanges & 18 gauge tubes with the option of having the HTC coating but for a few bucks more it's better to get the Elites over regular ones with the coating.

 

[CopperNick]

I find it hard to believe that the same company would have two different thicknesses for the header flange for the same application, doesn't sound very cost effective.

Actually there were four variations on that basic design, mostly having to do with finish and application. Two had the HTC coating, one had some kind of black finish, and the other was in raw or unfinished, possibly for a customizer who wanted to chrome them. One had a greater number of G variants for which that part number worked, the others were SBC specific and exclusive. I took the time to actually evaluate the four versions under their part numbers and apart from what I noted above, nothing much else stood out. Maybe it is nothing more than a marketing tactic on their side but if it earns them sales, then it must work.

 

[CopperNick]

The Elites have the thicker 3/8" flanges & 14 gauge steel tubes with the HTC coating for their top line headers as the standard line have the thinner flanges & 18 gauge tubes with the option of having the HTC coating but for a few bucks more it's better to get the Elites over regular ones with the coating.

Actually, your comment answers a question that I had planned on asking at the shop. The spec sheets for the two versions, list the 1/4 flange as having the HTC coating, but only describe the 3/8th flange as being ceramic. I was wondering if that was just an input error by whoever built the website and was going to have my shop rep e-mail Hedman to ask. Appreciate the clarification on that. Just wondering now if the thicker tubes and flanges will mean that the pipes stand prouder of the engine (aka stick out more) and what that would do to pipe to frame clearance?

 

[pagrunt]

Actually, your comment answers a question that I had planned on asking at the shop. The spec sheets for the two versions, list the 1/4 flange as having the HTC coating, but only describe the 3/8th flange as being ceramic. I was wondering if that was just an input error by whoever built the website and was going to have my shop rep e-mail Hedman to ask. Appreciate the clarification on that. Just wondering now if the thicker tubes and flanges will mean that the pipes stand prouder of the engine (aka stick out more) and what that would do to pipe to frame clearance?

The Elites are a hair tighter than the regular ones & will need to reroute or put some sore of heat protection on the brake lines that will be near them. Figure about a minimal 1/8"-3/16" less clearance overall with the Elites over the standard ones.

 

[565bbchevy]

Just wondering now if the thicker tubes and flanges will mean that the pipes stand prouder of the engine (aka stick out more) and what that would do to pipe to frame clearance?

An 1/8" thicker flange isn't going to make a difference for clearance but do check the thread engagement of whatever header bolts you use.
As far as tubing size if it is the same OD it won't matter and if it isn't then you are only talking about approx. 15 thousandth difference in size, still not an issue
Just be aware that pretty much every header design will have some sort of clearance issue somewhere do the variances in our cars..

 

[GuysMonteSS]

Thanks to all who responded.
Also using header bolts that I have cross-drilled so that they can be tightened up and then safety wired. The wire isn't pretty but it isn't supposed to be; it is meant to keep the bolts in place and, like doing it for two piece rotors, it works.



Nick

Nick,I'm not sure that I would safety wire the header bolts,at least not rightaway,and maybe not at all.
I say this because I find that header bolts like to be "snugged up" perodically,and having wire on them might not allow this.
I usually tighten them 2-3 times after a fresh install,and then once a year after that.
Just my opinion !!
Guy