Putting in new transmission , any advice?

[GeoR]

. The reverse on my cutlass went out recently, I had a th350 laying around so I decided to swap the transmissions. I've already bought the BOP Adapter, block bolts and torque converter bolts . But I don't know what to do next. To swap my transmission would I have to remove the engine and transmission. Or Would i be able to put it on a lift and remove the old transmission and install the th350 without removing the engine. Any feedback would be helpful, I plan on starting this tomorrow .

 

[ck80]

. The reverse on my cutlass went out recently, I had a th350 laying around so I decided to swap the transmissions. I've already bought the BOP Adapter, block bolts and torque converter bolts . But I don't know what to do next. To swap my transmission would I have to remove the engine and transmission. Or Would i be able to put it on a lift and remove the old transmission and install the th350 without removing the engine. Any feedback would be helpful, I plan on starting this tomorrow .

To be honest, I'd plan on doing more research and planning before jumping in.

You didn't say what trans you have now, th200c, 200-4r? Get new different mounts? Get a torque converter that fits the th350? Is the th350 a short tail? Long tail? If long tail the 9" or 12" version? If longer tailshaft, have a different drifeshaft of the right length ready? Are you going to need to run a vacuum hose down to the modulator for the th350, and if so, have the parts/tubing for it?

 

[GeoR]

To be honest, I'd plan on doing more research and planning before jumping in.

You didn't say what trans you have now, th200c, 200-4r? Get new different mounts? Get a torque converter that fits the th350? Is the th350 a short tail? Long tail? If long tail the 9" or 12" version? If longer tailshaft, have a different drifeshaft of the right length ready? Are you going to need to run a vacuum hose down to the modulator for the th350, and if so, have the parts/tubing for it?

Sorry i deleted that info when i was rewriting the post. I have a 1985 Cutlass supreme with the 307 , i believe that it has a th200 c ( metric ,right?) the one without OD . the th350 (shortail) is from a 86 Monte Carlo . previously attracted to a 305
I actually have a pic:

 

[Texas82GP]

No need to pull the engine. Remove the distributor cap and upper fan shroud for clearence. Put a jack under the transmission pan (use a piece of plywood to protect the pan or use a transmission jack). After removing the trans lines, dipstick tube, starter, driveshaft, exhaust crossover pipe, shift linkage, torque converter bolts, etc., jack up the transmission slightly and then remove the crossmember. Now let the jack down some to let the engine and trans down. This is why you remove the distributor cap to keep from crushing it on the firewall and remove the fan shroud to keep the fan from burying into it. With the trans drooping some but still on the jack, you can now get to the upper bellhousing bolts with some long extensions. Now support the engine with a jack and you can remove the trans. This is an abbreviated proceedure. You might want to look online for a more detailed writeup or get a Chiltons but it gives you a good idea of the proceedure.

 

[V8 Rumble]

Also use an old yoke or trans plug for the rear to prevent fluid from coming out of the tail shaft.

 

[GeoR]

Also use an old yoke or trans plug for the rear to prevent fluid from coming out of the tail shaft.

Already have one, made that mistake when I was putting a manual in my Dakota made a huge mess

 

[Texas82GP]

Drop the pan first and get most of the fluid out of it. You'll still want to plug the tailshaft housing though.

 

[GeoR]

No need to pull the engine. Remove the distributor cap and upper fan shroud for clearence. Put a jack under the transmission pan (use a piece of plywood to protect the pan or use a transmission jack). After removing the trans lines, dipstick tube, starter, driveshaft, exhaust crossover pipe, shift linkage, torque converter bolts, etc., jack up the transmission slightly and then remove the crossmember. Now let the jack down some to let the engine and trans down. This is why you remove the distributor cap to keep from crushing it on the firewall and remove the fan shroud to keep the fan from burying into it. With the trans drooping some but still on the jack, you can now get to the upper bellhousing bolts with some long extensions. Now support the engine with a jack and you can remove the trans. This is an abbreviated proceedure. You might want to look online for a more detailed writeup or get a Chiltons but it gives you a good idea of the proceedure.

Thanks , I have have access to lift so hopefully that will make it easier. I've done swaps before ( only Subaru really and my old Dakota ) but never on any gbodies or anything with a " bigger" engine so it's new to me don't want mess up my car.
I definitely plan on doing more research on the procedure, but this definitely gives me a good idea of what needs to be done.
Thank you

 

[pontiacgp]

when installing an automatic transmission I like to remove the spark plugs so the engine turns over easy to get the torque converter bolts in and I use blue loctite on all the bolts including the bell housing bolts

 

[V8 Rumble]

Thanks , I have have access to lift so hopefully that will make it easier. I've done swaps before ( only Subaru really and my old Dakota ) but never on any gbodies or anything with a " bigger" engine so it's new to me don't want mess up my car.
I definitely plan on doing more research on the procedure, but this definitely gives me a good idea of what needs to be done.
Thank you

You talking wrx/sti swaps? I helped a friend do an sti swap on a forester. Almost did one on my old rs but ended up getting an 04sti when they first came out.