Question for Experienced Engine Builders

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Nov 4, 2012
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So I'm finally getting around to working on my engine for my Buick. I'm on a tight budget but I'm still want to get respectable ETs with the car when I'm done. Id also like it to last a good while. I want to put .030 pistons in it and a comp cams camshaft. I'm trying to do as little machine work as possible. The only machine work I want to have done is the cylinder bore and hone. I can hone the lifter bores myself with a ball brush hone and replace freeze plugs myself. My question is, can I remove the crankshaft and rods and just use new standard size bearings when I reassemble without doing any machine work to the crank or the main journals and rod journals? Or is this a recipe for disaster? The machine shop certainly seems to think its a recipe for disaster but then again, they are trying to sell me $400 worth of machine work that I don't want.
 
it depends on the condition of the crank. If the crank has no damage, cleans up nice and you have proper clearance with new bearings I would have no problem bypassing the machine work
 
it depends on the condition of the crank. If the crank has no damage, cleans up nice and you have proper clearance with new bearings I would have no problem bypassing the machine work

What can I do to clean it myself and check the clearance? I usually have the machine shop do this stuff, but since this is my engine and my money, I'm trying to do as much as I can to save $$$.
 
I use a scotchbrite pad with oil to clean it and plastigauge to check the clearances..

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What can I do to clean it myself and check the clearance? I usually have the machine shop do this stuff, but since this is my engine and my money, I'm trying to do as much as I can to save $$$.
First off what engine are we talking about?
Did you tear it down and inspect to see if there is any damage to your existing bearings and crank.
If you are planning on replacing pistons with .030 over ones this will change the bob weight of your rotating assembly and it will require rebalancing and if the crank requires work that would have to be done first.
I personally would side with the machine shop on this if you want the engine to last (of coarse they make mistakes also) but with lack of experience and most likely lacking the proper tools to check everything correctly I feel the money you might save could cost you in the long run.
 
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My apologies, I guess I skipped a few details. This engine is a 1976 Buick 350 from a Lesabre that ran when pulled and supposedly has around 80,000 miles on it. As far as I can tell, there is no obvious damage to the crank or bearings other than some very minor scoring which I would consider normal for having 80,000 miles on it. I am planning on putting .030 over pistons in it. What should my procedures be?
 
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