rear end grinding... good lord!
- Thread starter SilverShadow87
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i got 2.13 from 22-47... and what kind of spacer? the ring gear itself is far thicker than the stock one.78 salon said:
As the diameter of the pinion gear increases and decreases due to the different ratios (more teeth/ less teeth), the ring gear must be located farther or closer away from the pinion centerline to maintain proper mesh. At some point you can't go any thinner/thicker with the ring gear, so they use a different carrier to offset the ring gear and start all over again. GM used 3 carriers for it's wide range of ratios, 2 series, 3 series, and 4 series. They also used a wide range of gear combinations to achieve ratios that don't fit that general rule. Gears are offered that are actually one series, yet fit a different series carrier by being made thicker. A spacer does the same thing.
apparently ive got a lot of research to do before i put it back in. right now ive got my spare finally in there and it works just fine 🙂 problem is, i need to bleed the rear brakes, but nobodys here to help me do it 🙁
Go to the parts store and get some speed bleeders, they are designed to allow you to bleed the brakes by yourself. The other one man way is to seal the threads of the bleeders and put a hose on it and submerge it in brake fluid, as you work the pedal the air will exit out the fluid and should give you a good pedal. I have used the submerged hose and sealed bleeder with success but have not tried out the speed bleeders yet!SilverShadow87 said:
Just in case anyone doubts the importance of following the factory procedure, let me share a true story. I have a friend, a good mechanic, working over 20 years in various shops. He had an old Suburban, 8.5" rear, 4 wheel drive 3:42 front and rear, and the pinion seal was leaking. So he asks his Boss what needs to be done. Boss says,"just slap in a new seal". Now, I had explained the importance of following the factory procedures many times only to be told by said Boss, " Don't be silly, I just slap in new gears, no problem". Further investigation revealed that he had NEVER swapped gears before, but my friend listens to him because he's the "Boss". So he buys a new seal, removes the pinion nut without counting threads, measuring preload, or marking the end of the pinion shaft /nut for realignment later, and goes to work. Worse, after replacing the seal, he "slaps" the nut back on with an impact wrench so she's "good an' tight", and drops it down thinking all is well. On the way home, and for a week, the rear is growling, but he's too busy to check into it, and it's not leaking so what could be wrong? Finally he has had enough and brings the truck in on a Saturday to see what's up and of course on the way he "gets on it" because doesn't that fix everything? CRUNCH!!! Now he's limping in to the shop grinding and snapping all the way. He gets it up in the air, pops the cover, and several teeth are off the ring gear. By cranking down on the nut, the crush collar collapsed and he drew the pinion gear deep into the bearings and away from the ring gear, upsetting the backlash and tooth contact. Mayhem followed. NOW I get the "Ya gotta help me" call and I bring a set of used 3:42 gears w/bearings, shim collection, and my Kent-Moore dealership pinion setting tool set and I proceed to learn him how to install gears the factory way. After it's done he tests it out and proclaims it to be "the quietest and smoothest it's ever been". Just to rub it in, I explained to him that if he had just followed the above procedure he could have changed the seal and replaced the crush collar, flange, and nut back to the original spec and been on his way. And all he had to do was open the manual and read. 
A friend of mine drives a Camping World truck and he pulled out of a race last year after 11 laps, the rear got so hot the paint in the area melted and caught fire. Even the best can screw up....
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