On my 2+2 I have heims on the body side and rotojoints on the housing side on my uppers and boxed sock lowers with poly on both sides.
When I had rubber lowers (30 year old stock ones albeit) the car wheel hopped like an SOB, even when the lower arms were boxed and the uppers were solid with rotojoints on both ends. My 4th gen f body would wheel hop like a SOB too until I swapped the lower bushings out with poly, and those bushings were maybe 10 years old at the time and not destroyed.
I have enough negative experience with wheel hop that if it is a performance car I won't run rubber in the bottoms arms. It's fixed my problems twice on two separate cars. New rubber might have solved that issue, but I know poly did. For me, a slight reduction in articulation (which isn't seen anyways since I have a blazer axle mounted swaybar) and a slight chance in fatigue of the pickup points over a period of years on the frame is a risk I am willing to take for not wheel hopping every time I lightly spin the tires.
Now I do think putting boxed uppers with poly (or alum) upper bushings is a poor idea on anything but a pure drag car, but honestly if you think you need a performance upper arm you should just get an adjustable one with a heim anyways since the rear on your car is likely not centered and the pinion angle is far from ideal.
I can literally flex the stock unboxed lower arm by hand. The axial rigidity is not sufficient for a car trying to go straight, fast. Having rotojoints in the lower arms is better, sure. But, I don't see many people taking their lowered G body through the MacDon's parking lot exit and maxing the suspension travel out like Rhonda's rav 4 loaded with 30 bags of walmart groceries and every seat loaded with a runny nose kid.