Rear Suspension Upgrades

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For the rear brace on my Monte I welded a piece of 1-3/4" roll bar tubing to the frame rails, for my Regal I also used the same tubing but welded 1/4" steel plate to it so it could be bolted on to the rear frame rails.
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For the rear brace on my Monte I welded a piece of 1-3/4" roll bar tubing to the frame rails, for my Regal I also used the same tubing but welded 1/4" steel plate to it so it could be bolted on to the rear frame rails.
Any reason I can't put a pair of 3/8 or 10mm holes in the bottom of the frame rails (see pic) and bolt a 3x1 box beam across, right behind the gas tank (spacers to keep from crushing it)? Could probably fish the bolts in with a wire and not remove the bumper or tap the holes if use a fine thread pitch.
 

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Any reason I can't put a pair of 3/8 or 10mm holes in the bottom of the frame rails (see pic) and bolt a 3x1 box beam across, right behind the gas tank (spacers to keep from crushing it)? Could probably fish the bolts in with a wire and not remove the bumper or tap the holes if use a fine thread pitch.
No access to a welder? I suppose you could do it the way you are suggesting but IMO I would just use the existing mounting points for the bumper shocks and use a bolt and nut instead of tapping into the frame.
 
If you go the existing bolts route, you may find that you will need to score some longer bolts to get it all to come together. The other point is that adding the flat plate will push the bumper out farther so if you have shims between the shock and the bumper you may have to remove one layer to bring it all back in line again.



Nick
 
If you go the existing bolts route, you may find that you will need to score some longer bolts to get it all to come together. The other point is that adding the flat plate will push the bumper out farther so if you have shims between the shock and the bumper you may have to remove one layer to bring it all back in line again.



Nick
Mine is mounted on the backside with longer bolts so it does not change the bumper location.
 
No access to a welder? I suppose you could do it the way you are suggesting but IMO I would just use the existing mounting points for the bumper shocks and use a bolt and nut instead of tapping into the frame.
Just thinking... I've added about half the braces mentioned here on the other thread, and I like what it does for the car. I like the brackets from GNS Performance mentioned above, but I wonder if pushing the bumper out by the thickness of the bracket (possibly 3/16) will gap the bumper filler... I don't know how to weld; I plan to experiment with flux core wire welding this summer - maybe, after I make a ton of bad welds on some scrap I'll try to make this brace.... Man, welding seems like a glass celling to me....

Edit: I see you mounted your own behind the bumper shock absorber.
 
I just cut a piece of hollow square stock at an angle on both sides. Then drilled 3 bolt holes, one on one side, two on the other and then bolted it to the backside of the bumper shock frame pads similar to what Jeff did.

My CVPI has a factory frame brace bolted to its bumper mounts that is similar to the GNS setup. I noticed many other body on frame cars use similar rear frame bracing bolted to the bumper mounts.
 
I just cut a piece of hollow square stock at an angle on both sides. Then drilled 3 bolt holes, one on one side, two on the other and then bolted it to the backside of the bumper shock frame pads similar to what Jeff did.

My CVPI has a factory frame brace bolted to its bumper mounts that is similar to the GNS setup. I noticed many other body on frame cars use similar rear frame bracing bolted to the bumper mounts.
I do the same except I use a piece of round tubing. I put a 1/4”’slice it the tube and put over the bumper shock mounts and tack it in. The remivenit and weld it sold. About $30-40 worth of metal and 2-3 hours of my time.
 
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My Caballero only has two braces on the whole truck and no bumpers. I have all the flex. Hopefully I’ll get time to work on it again soon.
 
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