Rear Suspension Upgrades

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CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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There is no glass ceiling to welding; just a lot practice. However, a few thoughts.

Unless your wiring is an issue, stay away from a 110 Volt welder. They can do the trick and you can get good welds and decent looking welds but they can be the stuff of legends; mostly bad.

Okay. 220. Choice is Flux Core or MIG/Gas. Not going to extol the virtues of this mfgr vs that one. I have both Lincoln and Miller in my shop. The Lincoln is set up for Flux Core, although it does have the capacity to run gas; the Miller is set up for gas.

Biggest difference. Flux core works great outside in the elements if you have to do welding out on a driveway or a lot of fencing. i have run my Lincoln out in the back yard pre garage while it was raining and got the job done. Not fun but hey, if I couldn't take a joke, you couldn't pay me to work on cars as a hobby. Flux core does not offer as clean a product as gas. You will have to chip the passes more and there will be more spatter. You will also find that working with body metal will be problematic. You need to be able to get down to 18 ga and thinner on the dial to work with panels and skins and for that capability you get to pay mucho dinero

MIG. The upfront or buy in cost can be higher, again depending on what you want. The gas is a cost plus item. Talk to your supplier or dealer about what to use and how big a tank to buy or rent. Advantage both ways. My own adventures with body panels and skins are recounted elsewhere. For sheet metal or panel work. GAS.

Problem/issue. Gas is strictly an inside use item. Taking a gas rig outside is just a waste of gas as the slightest puff of wind or air will dissipate the gas lens and leave you with solid wire and a miserable weld.

Summarily, each unit is set up for a specific purpose.

As for the practice, I found, by comparison, that the MIG was easier to pick up on and use. Flux core took a lot more initial practice. If you have a community college near by and they offer courses, take a welders basic course. They pay for the gas!!

The other point about the gas unit is that it is TIG capable and only needs the kit to go that route.

Oh, yeah, watch for where it was made. Hecho en Los Estados Unidos costs more but the service help is easier to come by and so are parts or upgrades or accessories. Harbor Freight can be a great place to find a bargain but a lot of those bargains don't have a made in aAmerica sticker on them. Caveat Emptor.
 
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rubio9800

Greasemonkey
Oct 10, 2020
242
110
43
California
i got too excited to upgrade my control arms that now i can't line up the new ones correctly.

i figured i would save myself some time
by removing the stock ones while the UMI kit arrived.

Ugh i learned the hard way when instructions said to change the upper ones one at a time.

Rear end dropped and can't figure out how to get those suckers in. any ideas? tried to lower and raise but can't quite get it.

i replaced the bushings on the rear since they were all in awful shape.

the shocks are still bolted on.

thanks
 

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403Olds

G-Body Guru
May 31, 2014
533
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South Central Ohio
All good ideas. I've made the rear brace from a piece of square tubing, this works wonders, along with the poly bushings and arms.

As for your current predicament, put a 2x4 on the jack and jack up the nose of the rear end to get it into the "installed" position, you should be able to get the bolts in the arms.
 
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SSMonteMan

Greasemonkey
Jun 12, 2015
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After having my rear end rebuilt I had to reinstall it by myself. I set it up on the jack and rolled it under the car. Mounted the upper arms first, then the lowers, then put the springs on, and did the shocks last. Took a lot of up and down, back and forth, and side to side movements to get it all lined up and bolts through holes, but I was bleeding brakes in under two hours.
 
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rubio9800

Greasemonkey
Oct 10, 2020
242
110
43
California
After having my rear end rebuilt I had to reinstall it by myself. I set it up on the jack and rolled it under the car. Mounted the upper arms first, then the lowers, then put the springs on, and did the shocks last. Took a lot of up and down, back and forth, and side to side movements to get it all lined up and bolts through holes, but I was bleeding brakes in under two hours.
maybe if i unbolt the bottom of shocks will have better luck. i think i need to do some side to side to line it up.
 
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Streetbu

Know it all, that doesn't
Supporting Member
May 22, 2011
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After having my rear end rebuilt I had to reinstall it by myself. I set it up on the jack and rolled it under the car. Mounted the upper arms first, then the lowers, then put the springs on, and did the shocks last. Took a lot of up and down, back and forth, and side to side movements to get it all lined up and bolts through holes, but I was bleeding brakes in under two hours.
Super Troopers Yes GIF by Searchlight Pictures
 
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ELCAM

Royal Smart Person
Jun 19, 2021
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Use ratchet straps to pull the axle side to side, wrap the strap around the lower arm mount and put other end to the frame. To roll the axle also use the lower arm mount and put the strap to the crossmember or to the rear bumper depending on which way you want to roll the axle housing.
 

CopperNick

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
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Having the shocks removed and out of the way should give you some more room to maneuver. Also, leave all your fasteners, bolts and capscrews, loose so you can tweak your alignment. If you have the rear panhard bar still attached to the lower arms, remove it to get as much freedom for them as possible.



Nick
 
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