Replacing a windshield materials list

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tobyp

Royal Smart Person
Jun 12, 2011
1,708
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Cincinnati, Ohio
Ok, I am bound and determined to do all the work on my GN myself. I also have one hell of a connection for materials to do so the correct way with the correct tools

With this being said

GOt a brand new glass $60
Window weld 3m08609 11$
Primer $6

so for 78$ I can put a brand new one in myself

I am just unsure the amount of urethane needed. One tube enough? And what are the "pointers" anyone could share? Like using the windshield setting blocks correctly
 

Fox80

G-Body Guru
Jun 27, 2013
563
4
16
Jamestown NY
No one tube will not do any car, you also need to cut the tip right to not make a mess. Cut it at a 45 degree angle so it has about a 3/8" hole, then cut a small triangle out of the part that will face up so you create a 3/8" bead on the pinch weld but it will have a 1/4"-3/8" smaller bead on top. This helps use less urethane but still ensures full contact with your glass. You will need a buddy to set it, suction cups are nice but not a absolute need. I would have three tubes on hand, any left over had a million uses around the garage, urethane holds almost anything.
 

Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
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Gainesville, Fl
Thanks for the info, Fox.
I'm also at the point of getting ready to install a new windshield and would love to save some money doing it myself. I guess the same principal applies to doing the quarter windows?
 

ssbrewskyaz

Master Mechanic
Dec 29, 2010
472
102
43
New River, Arizona
While I haven't been through this yet on my wagon, and don't exactly recall the installation method, I'll offer up some experience from past cars I've done.

If the windshield came from the factory with the glass glued in with urethane, then normal urethane installation should be followed. However, if the glass was originally installed using butyl tape or butyl sealer, you need to think this through.

Why you ask, well if it was originally butyl and you use urethane, the glass is gonna sit lower in the frame and hence all of your windshield/side glass reveal moldings will not have the tension against the glass they need to look and act right. I learned this lesson the hard way on one of the first COPO's I did. Luckily, the glass was removed and reinstalled without breaking. ($800.00 date correct windshield) The last car I did the installer was told this upfront and built up the urethane and had some little blocks to keep the glass from sinking in the frame too much.

Yes, it's a little thing but if it ain't right, it ain't right. ...

Scott, ...

:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :roll:
 

Wildmani

Master Mechanic
Sep 17, 2010
294
40
28
Brantford, Ontario, Canada
Just did mine last fall, it's not all that complicated but you need to take your time and be careful. It helped that I used to do it on the assembly line, figured if I could do it on a moving target I could do it on a stationary car :). Can't remember exactly how much urethane I used, I think it might have been 2 tubes for front and rear but don't quote me on that! Absolutely go with suction cups, I ended up buying 2 of those dent puller suction cups for something like $6 each and they worked ok. Cheaper than the ones for that application and worked just as well in my opinion.

Take your time and be careful and you'll do fine, I had my wife help me and she doesn't know which end of a wrench is which lol. Just gave her a quick walk through of the procedure before we started :).

Good luck!
 

Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
12,176
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Gainesville, Fl
My concern would be as Scott pointed out, the depth of the glass and relation of the trim seating properly against the glass. I've cleaned, scraped out all the old sealer and repainted the window channels. In some cases with the replacement of a windshield, I've read that they recommend retaining some of the old sealer, or urethane and just lay a new bead of urethane on top of that.
That was probably meant to help maintain the proper windshield depth.

Also, before making contact with the fresh bead of urethane, would it be a good practice to test fit the glass first and then use a piece of tape or crayon to make a center mark...or just utilize spacer blocks?

I do like the idea of picking up a few suction cups to make handling the glass easier. The more information the better.

Thanks guys!
 

tobyp

Royal Smart Person
Jun 12, 2011
1,708
39
48
Cincinnati, Ohio
I just bought 3 tubes of urethane and plan on setting the windshield this weekend sometime. I will place a few pics and my experience soon.
 

Fox80

G-Body Guru
Jun 27, 2013
563
4
16
Jamestown NY
Straight from PPG, and Carstar glass certification DO NOT put new urethane on top of a bead of old, try to scrape as much off as possible. Apply 3-M pinch weld primer to any bare metal and lay the urethane bead like I described above. The windshield in these cars is not butyl taped in, do not use that on a windshield, if you apply the bead correctly you have enough height to make the glass sit correctly. Make sure you install all the chrome trim while the urethane is wet, and take a small brush and smooth it out on the inside of the car and install the inside trim. Leave your door windows down so when you shut the door the positive pressure doesn't buldge the glass out of its seal. You could urethane the 1/4 windows in but I would just get 3/8" or 1/2" butyl tape and install it the correct way, warm the butyl up with a heat gun when it's on the glass and be carefull installing it uneven pressure can crack the glass
 

tobyp

Royal Smart Person
Jun 12, 2011
1,708
39
48
Cincinnati, Ohio
one tube of urethane, two suction cups. simple, done




 

Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
12,176
9,778
113
Gainesville, Fl
So, step by step, how do you go about it? Was it necessary to use spacer blocks?
 
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