The kirban replacement frame washers come in at about 14 gauge. That's what I used to fix my frame.
Replacing body bushings on 1979 Monte Carlo
- Thread starter rmorman
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I have removed the bumpers, removed the engine ground strap, removed the master Cyl and removed the drive shaft. I'll keep an eye on the trans coolant lines and radiator hoses as I lift the body. I'll maybe also put a couple of the bolts back in on the opposite side of the car to keep it from falling off the frame!
Almost done with the Passenger side. Here are a couple pics I took.
(Above) Decided I'd organize everything before I got started. Be aware that position 3 has specific washers! That one almost got me!
(Above) I went with a 2x6 for a little extra lift.
(Above) I've been pretty lucky. This is #7 passenger side. No real rot.
(Above) This is #6 pass side. The only one with any rot on this side of the car. Still, it was in pretty fair shape.
(Above) This is #2 Pass side. This was one of the ones that was keeping me up at night. Was not sure how I was going to get this out.
(Above) Working SLOWLY with vice grips, I got it started out. But eventually, they wouldn't do the job, and kept slipping.
(Above) Enter one of my favorite new tools. The Titan stud extractor. After 2 weeks of soaking the stud with PB blaster, it eventually came out!
I got the car set back down and noticed that #7, and to a lesser extent #6, had a gap between the bushing and the body. Not quite .5 inch on #7. When I started this, with the OEM bushings, #7 was not tight either...... but the bolt was broke on 6-7. When I torque them down, will this fix itself? Does it matter?
Now off to the drivers side! 😀
(Above) Decided I'd organize everything before I got started. Be aware that position 3 has specific washers! That one almost got me!
(Above) I went with a 2x6 for a little extra lift.
(Above) I've been pretty lucky. This is #7 passenger side. No real rot.
(Above) This is #6 pass side. The only one with any rot on this side of the car. Still, it was in pretty fair shape.
(Above) This is #2 Pass side. This was one of the ones that was keeping me up at night. Was not sure how I was going to get this out.
(Above) Working SLOWLY with vice grips, I got it started out. But eventually, they wouldn't do the job, and kept slipping.
(Above) Enter one of my favorite new tools. The Titan stud extractor. After 2 weeks of soaking the stud with PB blaster, it eventually came out!
I got the car set back down and noticed that #7, and to a lesser extent #6, had a gap between the bushing and the body. Not quite .5 inch on #7. When I started this, with the OEM bushings, #7 was not tight either...... but the bolt was broke on 6-7. When I torque them down, will this fix itself? Does it matter?
Now off to the drivers side! 😀
See how things go. The body could have tweaked a little as the bushings settled over the years. If you don't open up any gaps at the doors and fenders, you could try slipping a few extra washers in there to make up the difference.
Great thread- a few weeks behind you on my '78 monte.... So, who is the preferred supplier for the body bushings is the general consensus for spirited driving(no track)... Also, anyone have a quick picture of where each bushing/mount is located with their location #? I assume cutlass-monte have same locations/#'s??? Thanks guys!
I got my bushings from Rock Auto. "Energy Suspension" poly. Then I bought the new bolt kit from Dixie Monte Carlo.
Here is a pic showing the bushing locations on a Buick:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/bushings.html
This is what I used to find my bushings. Good Luck! I've had a TON of GREAT help from these guys.
Well, I have a bit more confidence now so the Drivers side went quicker. All things considered, the frame has been pretty good. I will have to weld in a washer on #6 Drivers side.
(Above) #6 Drivers side will need a washer welded in.
(Above) This is the #1 Drivers side. It is about .3 Inch from being seated. Maybe I'll just let this thing sit overnight.
#5, #6 & #7 drivers side are not tight, but less that a washer width from being tight. I'll see what it looks like in the morning.
Is there a thread discussing aligning the body on the frame? I have a service manual, but it really does not show how to use the two alignment holes. If nothing else, maybe I just use a large punch and have some of the weight off the frame to make it easier to move on one side and then the other???
The #1 position is the only one that I need to worry about the OEM shims, correct?
Thanks again.
(Above) #6 Drivers side will need a washer welded in.
(Above) This is the #1 Drivers side. It is about .3 Inch from being seated. Maybe I'll just let this thing sit overnight.
#5, #6 & #7 drivers side are not tight, but less that a washer width from being tight. I'll see what it looks like in the morning.
Is there a thread discussing aligning the body on the frame? I have a service manual, but it really does not show how to use the two alignment holes. If nothing else, maybe I just use a large punch and have some of the weight off the frame to make it easier to move on one side and then the other???
The #1 position is the only one that I need to worry about the OEM shims, correct?
Thanks again.
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