the adjustment screw on the passenger side is the hot idle adjustment,it usually drops off after the cam folower drops completely and thats when you adjust the curb idle which is the screw on the drivers side.you only really get adjustment from that after the car has warmed up.if its not dropping off the hot idle you have a choke issue that needs to be looked at.basic adjustments for most of the odds and ends are about 3 to 4 screws out on the apt(same with the m/c solenoid if yours is electric),choke pull off set to have the throttle blades open enough to fit a 1/8 drill bit between the airhorn wall and choke blade when the pull off is depressed,set the choke housing to its notch which is generally right around the front most screw or rivet,turn the idle screws on the base plate out to about 5 turns to start off with each,tune the hot idle(passenger side screw under choke)to about 1100 to 1200 rpm on the second step of the fast idle cam,you can tell this by feel pretty much if you use your finger to cycle through the steps.after warm up and its off its hot idle cam all together then adjust curb idle screw(driver sides) to obtain a good idle at about 1100 in park,900 to 950 in drive and fine tune with the idle bypass screw up top.now is is for the ccc set up for a conventional one its pretty much the same just lower the rpm for hot idle and curb to whatever works best and they lack the idle bypass screw.this is also just a base setting to get it running still would need to be fine tuned to your particular application
oh and no gas immediately comes out of the back of the carb to my knowledge,not till your on the pedal and vacuum is pulling it out after the car has been warmed up and the lock out tang is unlocked
