sbc ,idle rpm what you guys running?

[Grandprixpaul]

I tryed for a while today to get idle down to under 1000 and keep the timing at 14 not sure wat im missing but i know i need the timing set at 14 from the guy who built it . But everytime i get the timing set at idle to 14 i have a high idle wtf dont remember having this problem with my other cars ,

 

[RITTER]

The only thing a stall is going to affect at idle is keeping the car from lerching forward (if it has a large cam) Your car not idling at a "normal" idle speed is a different issue. Turning the idle up to keep the thing running is just masking the problem :|

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

The only thing a stall is going to affect at idle is keeping the car from lerching forward (if it has a large cam) Your car not idling at a "normal" idle speed is a different issue. Turning the idle up to keep the thing running is just masking the problem :|

Yes but like I said the stall converter isnt big enough so that when i am stationary the car will idle too low and stall. It usually only happens when I change from park into gear, hence me two-footing it (a little bit of brake and gas). Once I get like say a..2500 stall converter I can turn the idle down to a regular speed and I wont have to two-foot it.

 

[khan0165]

I tryed for a while today to get idle down to under 1000 and keep the timing at 14 not sure wat im missing but i know i need the timing set at 14 from the guy who built it . But everytime i get the timing set at idle to 14 i have a high idle wtf dont remember having this problem with my other cars ,

you can't treat it this way... you have to pretend it's a relationship. More timing advance will naturally increase idle rpm and smoothness. Why are you set on the 14? How do you know it won't like less? or more?

And, you can't just set one and expect the other to set itself. You have to set your timing where you want it, then reset the idle. And if it's not smooth at that point, then play with idle metering screws. If metering doesn't get it where you want, then you may need to try full manifold vacuum advance. Or, you may need smaller/larger primary jets.

... there's so many adjustments... when you tweek one, you need to reset all the others.

get yourself a vacuum gauge, and a timing gun with digital advance... Setting your idle timing advance won't show you how motor performs at other rpms.

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

I tryed for a while today to get idle down to under 1000 and keep the timing at 14 not sure wat im missing but i know i need the timing set at 14 from the guy who built it . But everytime i get the timing set at idle to 14 i have a high idle wtf dont remember having this problem with my other cars ,

you can't treat it this way... you have to pretend it's a relationship. More timing advance will naturally increase idle rpm and smoothness. Why are you set on the 14? How do you know it won't like less? or more?

And, you can't just set one and expect the other to set itself. You have to set your timing where you want it, then reset the idle. And if it's not smooth at that point, then play with idle metering screws. If metering doesn't get it where you want, then you may need to try full manifold vacuum advance. Or, you may need smaller/larger primary jets.

... there's so many adjustments... when you tweek one, you need to reset all the others.

get yourself a vacuum gauge, and a timing gun with digital advance... Setting your idle timing advance won't show you how motor performs at other rpms.

X2 thats how mine was tuned.

 

[Doober]

The only thing a stall is going to affect at idle is keeping the car from lerching forward (if it has a large cam) Your car not idling at a "normal" idle speed is a different issue. Turning the idle up to keep the thing running is just masking the problem :|

Yes but like I said the stall converter isnt big enough so that when i am stationary the car will idle too low and stall. It usually only happens when I change from park into gear, hence me two-footing it (a little bit of brake and gas). Once I get like say a..2500 stall converter I can turn the idle down to a regular speed and I wont have to two-foot it.

And what Ritter's saying is there is something else that's wrong. Converter stall being "too low" will affect how the car reacts from a stop, and what rpm it starts to get the car moving. If everything else is working properly it won't stall... my guess is there's too much gas at idle.

You have another issue that is timing/carb related.

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

The only thing a stall is going to affect at idle is keeping the car from lerching forward (if it has a large cam) Your car not idling at a "normal" idle speed is a different issue. Turning the idle up to keep the thing running is just masking the problem :|

Yes but like I said the stall converter isnt big enough so that when i am stationary the car will idle too low and stall. It usually only happens when I change from park into gear, hence me two-footing it (a little bit of brake and gas). Once I get like say a..2500 stall converter I can turn the idle down to a regular speed and I wont have to two-foot it.

And what Ritter's saying is there is something else that's wrong. Converter stall being "too low" will affect how the car reacts from a stop, and what rpm it starts to get the car moving. If everything else is working properly it won't stall... my guess is there's too much gas at idle.

You have another issue that is timing/carb related.

How can that be, because it only happens when you put it in gear. If you dont give it any gas it will just stall out. If you do lightly tap the throttle it is fine. The timing was hard to set, but I think it is good now. it idles fine and doesnt ping on mid grade gas.

 

[RITTER]

How can that be, because it only happens when you put it in gear. If you dont give it any gas it will just stall out. If you do lightly tap the throttle it is fine. The timing was hard to set, but I think it is good now. it idles fine and doesnt ping on mid grade gas.

The fact that you have to tap the gas when you put it into gear is the reason its a fuel issue :idea: You carburetor is not tuned correctly or else it wouldn't need to pump more fuel into the engine just because you put it into gear. Let's stop calling it a "stall", because it has nothing to do with making your car stall (it's a torque converter) You need to play around with your mixture while the car is in gear :idea:

 

[khan0165]

I'm not an expert on stalls... but I think this is what's happening.

first thing, I've never heard of a converter that's stalled for 400 or 500rpm. Even then, a very stock motor would still be able to idle smoothly at 700rpm. Let's say you have an insane cam that needs 1000rpm just to keep the motor alive (I'm talking 300+ duration), you could still run a factory stall and have it idle. The stall will still slip enough to not affect idle.

... there's no stall out there tight enough to seriously affect how an engine idles. Unless we're talking an all our drag car that idles at 1500rpm, in which case, why do you still have a factory stall in there?

if your motor is not a race motor, and it is still having trouble idling in gear with a factory stall... there are other issues at play.

 

[Kwik_Cutty88]

I'm not an expert on stalls... but I think this is what's happening.

first thing, I've never heard of a converter that's stalled for 400 or 500rpm. Even then, a very stock motor would still be able to idle smoothly at 700rpm. Let's say you have an insane cam that needs 1000rpm just to keep the motor alive (I'm talking 300+ duration), you could still run a factory stall and have it idle. The stall will still slip enough to not affect idle.

... there's no stall out there tight enough to seriously affect how an engine idles. Unless we're talking an all our drag car that idles at 1500rpm, in which case, why do you still have a factory stall in there?

if your motor is not a race motor, and it is still having trouble idling in gear with a factory stall... there are other issues at play.

I understand what you are saying. The lift on the cam is street able and its a street cam (it think like .513 intake .498 exh.) It idles fine in park, when you put it in gear the idle drops from 1100 to about, 700 I think, because of the load that is put on the engine. When you change into gear it idles fine, but sometimes it will drop lower than 700 rpm and will stall out if it is cold. The carb I have I got for free, its a 650 CFM edelbrock. We dont really know what it looks like inside, but we tuned it as much as we could for that engine with out messing with the timing too much so we could keep the timing at what the engine likes. Its tuned now without a jet kit, so it runs fine and very rarely stalls out when put in gear. Ideally I would need a jet kit or a bigger carb, but like I said it the carb was free. A bigger stall would be nice too, but I realize now, its not solely the stall that is causing the problem.