Sealer coat questions

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Tony1968

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Jul 1, 2018
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I will be sealing using a slightly reduced epoxy primer after final sanding of primer surfacer with 420 grit. Is one coat of sealer enough or should I spray two coats? It's going to be some time before I base coat and I know I'll have to scuff it prior. I've searched and couldn't find a definitive answer.
Thanks in advance.
 
From my limited experience, one coat should be enough but hopefully someone with more knowledge than me chimes in.
 
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Whatever it takes to achieve hiding is all that's needed.it's reduced so depending on the color what's underneath/color of sealer etc it may take more than one coat.either way good to see you're locking it down for the future.. 👍
 
Not to complicate things (I usually do) since it may not be until spring before I spray base/clear, would you still seal it now? Individual panels as I go along with bodywork?
Or is it ok to leave it in 2k surfacer?
 
We've always applied sealer prior to color when using base coat / clear coat. Put the first coat of color on the sealer as soon as it flashes, and have never applied more than one coat of sealer. The dang stuff is expensive and the local paint shop has advised of the same. If I'm not mistaken, you don't want to have to sand or rough up the sealer (for a reason unbeknownst to me.)
 
Tony, 64nailhead hit it right on the button...paint and supplies are too expensive! If I'm recalling your plan correctly, you won't be applying base/clear until spring but, in the meantime, will be body working and prepping each panel. Here's what I'd do: metal repairs/bodywork, apply 2K primer, sand with 400-grip, and stop to move on the next panel. The 2K primer is robust enough to withstand the months of exposure in-between.

Once you've done the whole vehicle and are ready in the spring, get what is commonly referred to as painter's paste (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40072358/) to clean and scuff the 2K primer surface...use maroon or gray scuff pads. The painter's paste is like a soap and will remove any contaminants before you apply your sealer--according to manufacturer's recommendations. Once the sealer flashes, you can shoot your base/clear coats.

Lastly, stick with one brand or line of primer, sealer, and base/clear.
 
you can leave it in 2k,it's catalyzed as much as the over reduced product you're planning on laying down.save your money/time and leave it as is because regardless of what you leave it in now,it's gonna have to be scuffed up when the next step begins.
 
Tony, 64nailhead hit it right on the button...paint and supplies are too expensive! If I'm recalling your plan correctly, you won't be applying base/clear until spring but, in the meantime, will be body working and prepping each panel. Here's what I'd do: metal repairs/bodywork, apply 2K primer, sand with 400-grip, and stop to move on the next panel. The 2K primer is robust enough to withstand the months of exposure in-between.

Once you've done the whole vehicle and are ready in the spring, get what is commonly referred to as painter's paste (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40072358/) to clean and scuff the 2K primer surface...use maroon or gray scuff pads. The painter's paste is like a soap and will remove any contaminants before you apply your sealer--according to manufacturer's recommendations. Once the sealer flashes, you can shoot your base/clear coats.

Lastly, stick with one brand or line of primer, sealer, and base/clear.
As I get closer to paint I am thinking about using the 3M scuff it with gray scotch brite pads. Question is will one tube be enough for an entire car or should I just get two? I'd be using this to clean after wet sanding with 600. Also read it's good to use on plastic parts like bumper filler areas. Is this advisable?
Thanks
 
Tony, you'll only need one tube of the painter's paste for your car. I've been able to do several cars with a single tube. Just be sure to use PLENTY of rinse water and not allow the paste to dry on the surfaces being cleaned. Start on the roof and work down. Good luck!
 
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