Try the Powerball with Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish before the Sharkhide. I can't really see the difference in the pics but I do see some sand scratch. In the end, the truck is a driver and the end result of your hard work looks great.
Sharkhide?
- Thread starter fleming442
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Thanks. Wheels 3 and 4 will tell the tale, but now I'm having 2nd thoughts about the Pig's feet.
You do need to get the finish polished as good as possible before using any sort of coatings. A slight dulling of a freshly polished aluminum surface is normal for a coating that will actually give some protection.
Learning sanding & polishing is a process & any time you don't spend enough time in a step before the final steps you're wasting time polishing over scratches. I did some granite work with diamond pads years ago at home & didn't spend enough time in some mid to slightly later step & could never get the full gloss level.
Learning sanding & polishing is a process & any time you don't spend enough time in a step before the final steps you're wasting time polishing over scratches. I did some granite work with diamond pads years ago at home & didn't spend enough time in some mid to slightly later step & could never get the full gloss level.
Just looking at closeup of wheels again. You may be better off timewise backtracking some more with sanding before buffing with some assorted wet/dry silicone carbide paper from 1000 to 3000 grit before buffing anymore to get a smoother flatter surface. With there still being pitting & scratches, you may still be getting some negative effects of corrosion & remaining polish residue coming back up when coating.
Also could try a cleaner /polish that has a high solvent content , such as white diamond from advance auto parts. Or wipe with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.
Of course we have to remember just how bad a starting surface was there. Any shine is great progress.
Also could try a cleaner /polish that has a high solvent content , such as white diamond from advance auto parts. Or wipe with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.
Of course we have to remember just how bad a starting surface was there. Any shine is great progress.
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Well, like I said, wheels 3&4 are a better finish. OCD eventually wins, but I wasn't about to start over on the first 2. It's just a plow truck,anyway.
My buddy gave me these wheels, and they looked great until the salt. That's why they got trashed; I'm hoping this stuff protects them.
The destructions say petrol solvents will eat it, and I usually use Purple Power as a wheel cleaner. I just hope I haven't created another rabbit hole; I'm pretty good at those!
My buddy gave me these wheels, and they looked great until the salt. That's why they got trashed; I'm hoping this stuff protects them.
The destructions say petrol solvents will eat it, and I usually use Purple Power as a wheel cleaner. I just hope I haven't created another rabbit hole; I'm pretty good at those!
To throw a nail in this coffin, here's the visual difference. Sharkhide front and Duplicolor Wheel gloss clear:
Ever tried plasti dips clear coat? I put some flat black plasti dip on the wheels of my last pickup and it worked great. Survived one of the ugliest winters we've had in 20 years without any issues. I've personally never used the clear stuff.
That duplicolor will yellow quickly 
any cheap spray bomb clear can't handle UV exposure and yellows extremely quick. Most likely in less than a year
any cheap spray bomb clear can't handle UV exposure and yellows extremely quick. Most likely in less than a year
I would love to try the Cerakote. Unfortunately, my shop isn't really setup to spray, and I have enough problems with a spray bomb. I shouldn't be playing with paint guns, either.
I would think that if Duplicolor is marketing it for wheels, it would at least hold up to UV, no?
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