should i time it right, or worry about vaccum
- Thread starter cutlassguy
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cutlassguy said:
If you have a stock ccc system then there shouldn't have been a vacuum line running to the distributor. There would be a 4 wire plug for timing control. So to deactivate any timing advance you need to ground the A-B pins (I believe those are the two) in ALDL connector under the dash or you can unplug the wiring harness from the distributor.
Set your timing and then recoonect the wire or remove jumper from ALDL.
Cutlassguy, you need to tell us what exactly it is that you have. You say it's a CCC setup than say you have a vacuum advance distributor. That ain't goint to work. If you had the CCC setup properly,i.e CCC carb AND distributor, the base timing with the ECM disabled ( which is the way you must do it ) is 20* for all the Olds 307's.
DoubleV said:
^X2!!
Please let us know exactly what you've got, or you'll be getting conflicting - and potentially incorrect - advice!
just to add my $0.02 cdn 🙂
"if" you are indeed running a vacuum advance distributor and non-CC carb then you should plug the vacuum guage into the manifold vacuum to get a proper reading ( same one that your power brake booster line plugs into ). Plugging it into the carb or into a "tee" fitting somewhere along the line likely won't give you a correct reading because some of the outlets on the carburator are ported and wont receive vacuum at idle. Some not-so light reading here will describe better than I can type
http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.rober ... lained.pdf
When you set the timing you need to remove the vacuum line from the distributor and plug it so the engine does not advance the timing ( this is your base timing 8-10 deg is normal ). The only way to acheive this setting will be by using a proper timing light. Then reconnect the vacuum advance to the distributor of the car and take the car for a drive. Under WOT there should be no detonation/pinging. If there is then back off the timing some, if there is no pinging/detonation then you can slightly advance the distributor to advance your timing.
Once your timing is set then your vacuum guage comes into play. It's used primarily when setting up the carb and trying to acheive the best vacuum reading you can whith the fuel mixture screws.
Messing with your timing and carb settings is very easy to screw up and it takes great skill to get it exactly right again. I have been messing with timing and carb settings for over 20 years and can probably get everything set about 90% correct. Then I would go see someone else ( typically and old-timer ) to get it dialed in.
Good luck !
"if" you are indeed running a vacuum advance distributor and non-CC carb then you should plug the vacuum guage into the manifold vacuum to get a proper reading ( same one that your power brake booster line plugs into ). Plugging it into the carb or into a "tee" fitting somewhere along the line likely won't give you a correct reading because some of the outlets on the carburator are ported and wont receive vacuum at idle. Some not-so light reading here will describe better than I can type
http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.rober ... lained.pdf
When you set the timing you need to remove the vacuum line from the distributor and plug it so the engine does not advance the timing ( this is your base timing 8-10 deg is normal ). The only way to acheive this setting will be by using a proper timing light. Then reconnect the vacuum advance to the distributor of the car and take the car for a drive. Under WOT there should be no detonation/pinging. If there is then back off the timing some, if there is no pinging/detonation then you can slightly advance the distributor to advance your timing.
Once your timing is set then your vacuum guage comes into play. It's used primarily when setting up the carb and trying to acheive the best vacuum reading you can whith the fuel mixture screws.
Messing with your timing and carb settings is very easy to screw up and it takes great skill to get it exactly right again. I have been messing with timing and carb settings for over 20 years and can probably get everything set about 90% correct. Then I would go see someone else ( typically and old-timer ) to get it dialed in.
Good luck !
heres a pic of my carb. sorry if im loosey goosey with the description, i remember someone telling me before that if i had the white 2 prong plug on top that it was CCC. it was made in quebec, canada and has a 305 4 barrel rochester. everythings original to the best of my knowledge, ive only owned it a few months tho so i cant be certain but everything that should be there is there and it doesnt look like anybody switched motors and if they did, they threw in one that had everything the old one did. basically no plugged hoses or loose wires hangin around. i definately have a vaccum advance diaphram on my distributor tho. ive always set my timing by ear until i bought a gun so now i want to get it the best i possibly can. like i mentioned earlier tho, plugging the VA hose and timing it until the lines at 8 degrees seemed to get me the most power although it still hesitates for a half a second when i punch it. i triied going either way a little bit to see if i could get it to respond instantly but it just seemed to make it worse so i went back to where it only pauses for a second...
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It's been almost a month and you haven't fixed this yet? Damn! What else do you need to know exactly?
There are some carbs with a plug sticking out the top that aren't CCC carbs. It was some sort of silly accel pump thing on some Chubby trucks so I've heard. So is your carb a CCC carb? I can't tell from that pic. Does the carb have a 3 wire plug sticking out of the front drivers side too? If so it's a CCC carb. If not it's not. There are a billion other ways to determine if you have a CCC system, but the 2 plugs on the carb and the lack of vac advance on the distributor are dead givaways ( unless some Bozo butchered things up ).
There are some carbs with a plug sticking out the top that aren't CCC carbs. It was some sort of silly accel pump thing on some Chubby trucks so I've heard. So is your carb a CCC carb? I can't tell from that pic. Does the carb have a 3 wire plug sticking out of the front drivers side too? If so it's a CCC carb. If not it's not. There are a billion other ways to determine if you have a CCC system, but the 2 plugs on the carb and the lack of vac advance on the distributor are dead givaways ( unless some Bozo butchered things up ).
i had it running good but now all of a sudden its bogging out on low acceleration. i adjusted the timing to 8 deg. replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs are pretty much new, checked the vacuum and its sitting around 17-18 in the normal range on that gauge. re-checked all the vacuum lines and they all seem good, snugged down the carb bolts which were all tight so i didnt even move them, checked all the plugs too make sure they're tight and still gapped right and they were, now im kinda stumped as to what to check next. i put champion plugs that were gapped to .045 but i always remember gapping my acdelcos to .035 so in a last ditch effort im gonna go against what the package said to gap them to and shrink it down to .035 and see if it makes any difference. any idea how i could check the feul pressure with that gauge? it only has a piece of vacuum line with a cone shaped plastic fitting on the end. i gave it a few pumps and watched the spray in the carb and it seemed pretty good so im gonna assume the accel. pump is working good. there is a black vaccum tree thats screwed into the front of the manifold and pretty much everything like the vacuum advance, EGR valve, etc. is coming off of it, but the black plastic part is a little loose in the metal part that its connected to, could that possible be leaking? it only has the 1 2-wire plugs on the carb and has VA so its not a CCC.
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