Stalling & not starting when warm

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bender21

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 20, 2009
24
0
0
Grand Rapids, MI
I figured it was finally time to ask someone else because I can't figure it out. I have been reading through some similar old posts and can't find anything exactly like the problem I am having.

I have an 84 Grand Prix with the stock 305. I only started having problems when I swapped out a manual choke edelbrock 600 cfm carb for an electric choke edelbrock 600 cfm. (I traded the manual choke even up for a Demon 750). I first noticed a problem when working my part time job delivering pizza, so the motor was warm, and the idle became very erratic, then it died. I tried to start it, it would start, then instantly die. I noticed the carb was pretty hot to the touch, and thought that might be a problem. I had to leave the car where it was until after work, about 3 hours later, and it started right up and ran without a problem. It eventually started getting worse, where it start missing badly, even driving 70 down the highway, but only intermittently, usually for about 15-20 seconds out of a 50 minute drive on the highway, always after it warms up. It seems to be worse if I let it idle for too long. I never had to problem before I swapped the carb, So to make a long story short I swapped in another identical carb, but with a 1" spacer, and change the wires, plugs, vacuum lines, fuel lines and fuel filter at the same time. It seemed like it might have been better at first, but now my car is sitting dead just outside of town, where it stalled and wont start again, and the carb is cold to the touch this time. Another tidbit, if it stalled while running, and I floored the gas, it would start again and I would be able to drive it.. so I thought it was a gas problem. I have now added some Heet to the gas, but I haven't been able to start the car to see if it helps, but since I can't start it, I doubt that is the problem. I think it is getting gas, because I put another fuel filter on, and it is already full, even though the car won't start. A Napa guy stopped to see if I needed anything, and I relayed a little of my story to him, and he suggested the ignition control module since it is mostly dying when the engine is warm, but i replaced the whole distributor with a new one from summit about a year ago. The engine has 130k miles on, but it still runs really strong, especially for a 305. A guy at work thinks the engine is probably just shot, or maybe has a bad gasket, either intake or head. I put a performer intake on about a year ago as well, with new gaskets, but haven't touched the heads. I do have a 350 I plan on putting in, but it wasn't something I wanted to tackle when it was 20 degrees outside... I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction. I know this is long, but I didn't want to leave anything out..
:blam:
 

Blake442

Geezer
Apr 24, 2007
6,866
2,011
113
Minneapolis
Bender21 said:
A guy at work thinks the engine is probably just shot, or maybe has a bad gasket, either intake or head.

Your friend from work is an idiot, don't listen to him about cars ever again.

Check and make sure that the choke is opening up all the way once the engine gets up to temp.
 

Bender21

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 20, 2009
24
0
0
Grand Rapids, MI
Ofcourse that is one thing that I forgot. I thought the choke might be the problem with the first carb, as I have heard the edelbrock electric chokes are prone to closing up randomly when they are hot and killing the engine, so I unhooked it and tied it open, but it didn't change anything. And, update from yesterday, sure enough, when I let my car sit a few hours, I went back and it fired right up and I drove it home... Today so far, no problems on the 50 mile drive to work, so I am somewhat hopeful that it could be the Heet working.. I think I may change out the distributor if it doesn't help. Open to any other ideas ofcourse..
 

Bonnewagon

Lost in the Labyrinth
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2009
10,576
14,319
113
Queens, NY
I tend to agree with the NAPA guy. Those modules are very heat sensitive. Just because it's a new distributor doesn't mean the module isn't bad or that it wasn't bedded in with dialectric grease. I would swap in a known good distributor just to test and if that cures it I'd get a brand new module and don't forget the grease that it sits in. GM had a huge warrenty problem with the first HEI's until they figured out the module needs the grease to act as a heat sink.
 

shotgun

Royal Smart Person
Nov 12, 2007
1,067
80
48
Nort o Philly
First I agree on the module. They are cheap and easy to replace roadside.

I prefer to use Noalox between the module vs grease, but grease is better then dielectric grease which people use.

Second, next time it dies remove the air cleaner and CAREFULLY pump the throttle by hand and check for fuel.

Also during the swap, was the timing touched? or vacuum lines moved?

Let us know.
 

megaladon6

Comic Book Super Hero
May 29, 2006
4,006
15
0
Danbury, CT
check your timing by the book procedure
you did tune the carb when you installed it, right?
it sounds to me like it's going lean at idle. ice is a very real possibility. if it continues to run well after the HEET, run the tank low, then add 2 bottles of heet and then fill up.
and X2 on never listening to your friend again. :roll:
 

Bender21

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 20, 2009
24
0
0
Grand Rapids, MI
No problems at all with the tank of gas that had the Heet in it. I have already refilled it once, and it had missed a little while cruising on the highway for a second or two, but I have left it idle once I get home to see if it would stall, and no problems. I will add a couple more bottles when I refill again today. So all I can figure is water or maybe I need some higher octane gas?
One of the reasons I did swap to the electric choke models was because they would run a little leaner, as the manual choke carb was running rich for me, and the electric choke edelbrocks are already jetted smaller than the manual choke... but I think if it was running too lean now, that it would be with the primaries?
I checked timing after I got it home the other day and I was letting it idle. It is sitting where I had set it, with about 12 degrees initial advance.
When I installed both carbs I used the lean best approach to tuning the idle on the carb, using a vacuum gauge to measure the manifold vacuum. Turning the idle screws until I had the most vacuum, then turning it slightly rich. When setting it, it was reading a little over 20 inches. But I haven't done anything with the primary circuit..
 

Bender21

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 20, 2009
24
0
0
Grand Rapids, MI
I was running low on gas today before being able to get to Napa for a couple more bottles of Heet, so I put in a couple of gallons of gas and my car was missing all the way home after that. Added the two bottles of Heet, and filled the tank again.. so, isn't fixed quite yet.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor