Standard head on a vortec block

[glhman222]

Now dont blast me for not using the vortec heads on the vortec block, its a budget build so i want to do little to no machine work on this build.

I have a roller vortec block minus the heads, but have a set of standard heads avbailable to me for little to no money.

First off will this even work?
What will i need to complete this?
Do i need new push rods?
I can use a standard manifold if i run the standard heads right?
will the stock roller lifters work, should i get new ones? The oil in this engine wasnt changed often if at all but its stripped down except for the rotating assembly and the cams in, basically i have only taken off the oil pan and heads and all acessories.
Anything i should know about building this engine, i dont want to take apart any of the rotating assembly if possible, but im going to put in a nice cam.
Should i replace the oil pump because the oil wasnt taken care of?

thanks for any help

 

[DRIVEN]

Any SBC heads (except '92-97 LT1) should bolt on without a problem. Use whatever intake matches the heads. You will need the push-rods to match the roller lifters. I believe they are shorter than standard flat tappet push-rods. You can replace the lifters if you want but they probably aren't any more worn out than the rest of the shortblock. As long as the rollers aren't galled they should be OK on your new cam. If the oil changes were neglected I would expect significant wear has already occurred. If you don't want to tear into it, I would take the oil pump apart to at least inspect it. If it is worn -- replace it. Just don't expect a new oil pump to cure any of the damage that has already been done. If it were mine, I would spend the extra time and a few extra bucks to replace the bearings and rings along with a quick cylinder hone. Or you could just toss it in and cross your fingers. It's up to you. Keep in mind that fresh heads in a worn bottom end typically leads to smoking and/or oil consumption. Worn heads on a tight bottom end isn't a great idea either. Good luck.

 

[glhman222]

I would like to thank you very much for that well thought out answer, i will try to get a hold of the previous owner to see if he has done any oil changes and if not, i will take your advice and just tear down the whole thing and check tolerances as i go along, replacing worn out parts as i come along them

thank you

 

[megaladon6]

you may need different pushrods. there was something about the vortecs using self aligning rockers and had different pushrods. and something related regarding a guide plate. sorry, it's been too long. other than that the "vortec block" has only one difference from a "regular" gen 1, the lack of provision for a mechanical fuel pump.
remember, bearings are cheap and easy to put in, with the block out of the car. and they determine oil pressure--the lifeblood of the engine. you do not want to take chances with oil. also, a stock or high volume oil pump is only $20-50. more cheap ins.
and the bearings are easy to do. all you need is plastigage, a good torque wrench, and the procedures. it is tedious though.

 

[pontiacgp]

regarding the pushrods I removed standard heads from a 355 and installed some vortec heads. Like mega said the vortec rockers are self aligning but I used the pushrods that were installed in at engine with the standard heads and they worked perfect so going the other way you should be ok. As for the bearings mega is right about it's any easy job while the engine is on a stand. For the oil pump I use a big block pump which increases the volume by about 15%...

 

[jrm81bu]

other than that the "vortec block" has only one difference from a "regular" gen 1, the lack of provision for a mechanical fuel pump.
remember, bearings are cheap and easy to put in, with the block out of the car. and they determine oil pressure--the lifeblood of the engine. you do not want to take chances with oil. also, a stock or high volume oil pump is only $20-50. more cheap ins.
and the bearings are easy to do. all you need is plastigage, a good torque wrench, and the procedures. it is tedious though.

Just do expand on that, there is a big difference between what is inside a "vortec" block vs. a 1 piece rear seal block, in regards to pistons.
The vortec motors switched to a metric ring pack. Making new rings cost more, for example $112.99 vs. $41.99, priced at Advance Auto.

 

[Doober]

you may need different pushrods.

The roller lifters are taller, so they use a shorter pushrod compared to a flat tappet. If the older heads you have are already complete you'll probably have them already, but I believe they'll require hardened pushrods, which the Vortec ones may not be (since they don't use guideplates). This would be something to look into.

 

[megaladon6]

The vortec motors switched to a metric ring pack.

obviously i didn't know that, i stand corrected.

they'll require hardened pushrods, which the Vortec ones may not be (since they don't use guideplates).

that's what i was trying to think of!!