Starter Issue - No Crank

[Tynan918]

'84 Monte Carlo SS...

My starter isn't cranking when I put the ignition switch in the crank position... It's how I start my car until I can afford another steering column.

I also have a bump starter button under the hood that isn't cranking the engine over... I used this to start my engine for months.

Only time I can get it to crank over and start the engine is if I jump it using a screwdriver, with the ignition switch in the on position.

I know it isn't the ignition switch because I have two of them, and 1 is brand new...same results with both.

The purple solenoid wire is getting power to it.

Used to start up just fine, until I over flooded the engine in the middle of traffic and continually kept trying to crank over the engine. My last attempt during that time, the starter continued to crank itself over on it's own for a good 30-45 seconds after I put the ignition switch back in the "OFF" position..

Had it towed home and replaced the oil and got the flooding to quit and carburetor under control...

Went to start it using the ignition switch and nothing happened...

Went to start it with the bump starter and nothing happened...

Jumped it with a screwdriver and it fired right up, but not with the bump starter or the ignition switch.

I don't trust to keep starting the engine like this as the starter may give out on me anywhere leaving me stuck and require another costly tow I can't afford...

My starter is good for a free replacement under warranty, and I'm thinking the solenoid gave out on it causing the issue I'm having now.

Anyone else think the same thing ?

Any other suggestions are considered. Thanks in advance.

 

[Tynan918]

Timing is not great with what all is going on with the car & life but some how alot of that wiring needs replaced to ensure the car can be used safely & not become a fire hazard. Atleast get electrical tape on all that exposed copper to prevent any shorts or fires. My theory is the exposed copper hit something & caused the starter solenoid to short out. To be honest, if I had the right spare column you'd have one on it's way just to help. Hate to see this a issue from seeing & being with your newborn.

Yea the timing of everything right now is s***, I do plan on actually fixing everything when I can get around to it, in about a month or so. I will do the best I can to cover up any exposed copper and loose ends until then. And hey, I appreciate what you're doing for me here. ❤

 

[Tynan918]

Ok so while researching fusible links, I come across different types of fusible links... This this is one similar to mine...but it Isn't 16g and has to be ordered and I won't receive it until a week or so...

Some with no "barrels" and wires inline fuse with inline fuses...which one do I buy if I just want to buy one ?

 

[Tynan918]

Which one is the fusible link on my ignition solenoid wire ?

The plastic at the connector (left) or the plastic a little further back (right) ?

 

[pagrunt]

Which one is the fusible link on my ignition solenoid wire ?

The plastic at the connector (left) or the plastic a little further back (right) ?

View attachment 189895

The fusible link goes on the same stud as the battery cable. But this pic doesn't show any links on that stud.

 

[Tynan918]

The fusible link goes on the same stud as the battery cable. But this pic doesn't show any links on that stud.

My thought exactly when I looked at this picture of this '84 Corvette starter...

My battery power wire is just a single 4g black wire, no smaller wire attached to it.

 

[Tynan918]

Looks like I need to buy a new battery power wire with the smaller wire attached to it and two fusible links...?

 

[Tynan918]

Pretty good reference...

 

[Tynan918]

Is the how my wiring should be ? Minus the jumper cables ?

 

[Tynan918]

Watching this video, I see my neutral safety switch is bypassed...but with no fusible link in the wire

 

[pagrunt]

Looks like I need to buy a new battery power wire with the smaller wire attached to it and two fusible links...?

View attachment 189897View attachment 189898

OK, I got a game plan for you to make this repair easier & safer. Since it looks like you don't have any wires going to the starter I'll suggest putting a remote junction for all the needed wires. I am going with this set up to relocate the power leads/fusible links to the passenger inner fender using this junction block. It'll be fed by a second positive cable off the battery as I have an extra cable that'll be cut down for the correct lenth. Please keep in mind my work is to make it look like GM did it.

From this way you'll have easier access to the wires. One thing I'll ask is the current cable the original GM, a replacement or does it have a replacement terminal? The other question will be where is the wire that bolts on the back of the alternator go to & is it solid red or black/red? If black/red it would of ran to the positive cable with no fusible link & will need to be ran to the suggested juction block if replacing that cable.
Setting up the juction block, locate the 12GA red power leads that the fusible links are to be/should of been attached to. If no links or "beer barrel' link I.D., you should find three of them, with "beer Barrels", one will have two coming out with one single. Here's a pic from one of my one salvage harness with the purple wire.

As long as there is still enough wire left (might have to be removed fron the conduit), run them to the inner fender away from the manifold & pinch points. If not you'll need a roll of 12GA red wire & butt connectors.
Me personally I'd use a link on each wire coming off the junction. For them you could of bought a bulk roll at you local NAPA & made you own at the same lenth as the old ones were if they were still there. Other item(s) you'll need will be a good set of crimpers/stripers (Harbor Freight has a striper only at a good low price). As for the junction block, there are several out there & might even be at a local parts store. Another investment will be a GM/Chevy electrical manual.

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