Starter Issue - No Crank

[Tynan918]

'84 Monte Carlo SS...

My starter isn't cranking when I put the ignition switch in the crank position... It's how I start my car until I can afford another steering column.

I also have a bump starter button under the hood that isn't cranking the engine over... I used this to start my engine for months.

Only time I can get it to crank over and start the engine is if I jump it using a screwdriver, with the ignition switch in the on position.

I know it isn't the ignition switch because I have two of them, and 1 is brand new...same results with both.

The purple solenoid wire is getting power to it.

Used to start up just fine, until I over flooded the engine in the middle of traffic and continually kept trying to crank over the engine. My last attempt during that time, the starter continued to crank itself over on it's own for a good 30-45 seconds after I put the ignition switch back in the "OFF" position..

Had it towed home and replaced the oil and got the flooding to quit and carburetor under control...

Went to start it using the ignition switch and nothing happened...

Went to start it with the bump starter and nothing happened...

Jumped it with a screwdriver and it fired right up, but not with the bump starter or the ignition switch.

I don't trust to keep starting the engine like this as the starter may give out on me anywhere leaving me stuck and require another costly tow I can't afford...

My starter is good for a free replacement under warranty, and I'm thinking the solenoid gave out on it causing the issue I'm having now.

Anyone else think the same thing ?

Any other suggestions are considered. Thanks in advance.

 

[Tynan918]

Another investment will be a GM/Chevy electrical manual.

I have this manual

 

[pagrunt]

Is the how my wiring should be ? Minus the jumper cables ? View attachment 189901

Here's the only wire diagram I have handy on my laptop, from a '80 Chevy electrical manual

 

[DRIVEN]

The Q & A back in post #35 indicates that you already have power at the red wires going into the ignition switch but no power at purple in crank position. Is that correct?

 

[Tynan918]

Here's the only wire diagram I have handy on my laptop, from a '80 Chevy electrical manual

On my way home now, I just realized my neutral safety switch is bypassed with wires without the fusible link wire in the bypass setup... I'll shoot a video and upload it here.

The car came like this when I bought it...maybe the previous owner did it because the neutral safety switch is bad...🤷🏾‍♂

 

[Tynan918]

The Q & A back in post #35 indicates that you already have power at the red wires going into the ignition switch but no power at purple in crank position. Is that correct?

Correct

 

[Tynan918]

 

[g0thiac]

What's the latest year and models of chevy vehicles can I find some in ?

Mostly any GM vehicle from the 80's should work dude.

 

[pagrunt]

Where does that other wire on the back of the alternator run? As for the way they did it (maybe cause of the serpentine set up), they really didn't have a good idea on how to wire it. I wouldn't have ran the fusible link to the back of the alternator. Other than the black/red wire that should of been running the battery cable to the alternator, there should of been more than enough of the main curcuit to been fished out without cutting anything.

 

[pagrunt]

Post a pic of the alternator plug.

 

[Tynan918]

"There's method to tracking down the trail of current.

You stated you have NO 12 volts on the purple wire when someone holds the key in the crank position.

The next step, as stated is to check for power on the purple-white stripe wire when someone is holding the key in the "crank" position. Just turning the key to "on" will never send 12 volts on the solenoid line unless there are major issues.

The easiest way to check for power on the purple/white is simply unplug the purple and purple/white connector from the neutral safety switch at the base of the steering column.

If you have power on the purple/white when cranking, you need to plug the connector back into the neutral safety switch and stick your test/light/meter probe into the purple wire's connector and make sure the car is in PARK. If no power on the purple when cranking, Neutral safety is bad or mis-adjusted. If the purple DOES see 12 volts in park with the key in cranking position, bulkhead connections are to be suspect.

Now, if the the purple/white doesn't even have power, suspect ignition switch and/or ignition switch connectors."