Starter not turning over

[rogus]

If the switch is going into lamp test, gauges are arming, doubtful it's the rod. Just check make sure its fully seated in the switch. From there if good, check electric as suggested.

Easiest is to check the small terminal at the starter. If it energizes (12VDC) at "start" and still no crank, check the large terminal on starter. It should be hot all times. If so, then issue is solenoid in starter. Pull the starter and bench test.

If no volts at small terminal when in "start", then it's in the circuit from switch to solenoid. You will have to back trace circuit.

Also check simple stuff first like fuses, fused links, circuit breaker (30 amp metal can style). Check and make sure all connectors are pushed all the way in, no burnt or frayed wires, etc...

Then always a possibility even if new..., the switch may be bad.

Using a wiring diagram I tested for power going in to the switch (red wires) and power going out to the starter (purple wire). There is power coming in on the red but no power going out on the purple - when turning key to the start position.

 

[pagrunt]

Was the neutral safety/back up switch messed with while the column was out? It could be possible that might be out of alignment causing the no start.

 

[78Delta88]

Been awhile but I think screws on switch are 7/32 or 9/32. The mounting holes on the switch are slotted (oval shape) holes. Loosen and slide it toward the steering wheel and try again. Could be switch not moving far enough to engage contacts in the switch. Usually if every thing was fine before changes made... Go back and inspect work done during change and error will be in there some place.

And yes double check park neutral switch. See if you can bypass with a jumper across terminals.

 

[rogus]

Was the neutral safety/back up switch messed with while the column was out? It could be possible that might be out of alignment causing the no start.

no. I haven't pulled the wiring off the switch to see if I bent a tab or something. That might have wait till tomorrow

 

[rogus]

Been awhile but I think screws on switch are 7/32 or 9/32. The mounting holes on the switch are slotted (oval shape) holes. Loosen and slide it toward the steering wheel and try again. Could be switch not moving far enough to engage contacts in the switch. Usually if every thing was fine before changes made... Go back and inspect work done during change and error will be in there some place.

And yes double check park neutral switch. See if you can bypass with a jumper across terminals.

Thanks. Never worked on this before. Considering the time of day this might have to be carried on tomorrow.

 

[rogus]

Was the neutral safety/back up switch messed with while the column was out? It could be possible that might be out of alignment causing the no start.

The 2 larger images the ignition and dimmer switches were the only switches I could find connected to the steering shaft. If the switch in the smaller black image is the nuetral safety switch I can't find it. It's not attached to the steering column.

 

[rogus]

Thanks. Never worked on this before. Considering the time of day this might have to be carried on tomorrow.

View attachment 220676 View attachment 220675

The 2 larger images the ignition and dimmer switches were the only switches I could find connected to the steering shaft. If the switch in the smaller black image is the nuetral safety switch I can't find it. It's not attached to the steering column. Any idea about what the connectors look like that would attach to neutral safety switch?

 

[rogus]

In the start position. Is there power at the small lug on the starter.
From the work you did. I suspect a safety neutral switch problem.

can't find a neutral safety switch. I know it's supposed to look like

but I sure can't find it.

 

[rogus]

If the switch is going into lamp test, gauges are arming, doubtful it's the rod. Just check make sure its fully seated in the switch. From there if good, check electric as suggested.

Easiest is to check the small terminal at the starter. If it energizes (12VDC) at "start" and still no crank, check the large terminal on starter. It should be hot all times. If so, then issue is solenoid in starter. Pull the starter and bench test.

If no volts at small terminal when in "start", then it's in the circuit from switch to solenoid. You will have to back trace circuit.

Also check simple stuff first like fuses, fused links, circuit breaker (30 amp metal can style). Check and make sure all connectors are pushed all the way in, no burnt or frayed wires, etc...

Then always a possibility even if new..., the switch may be bad.

managed to check power to solenoid and there's no power when I turn the key. Can't find a neutral/safety switch on the column any where. I know it's supposed to look like this

but the heck if I can find it. Will check fuse box next.

 

[rogus]

Was the neutral safety/back up switch messed with while the column was out? It could be possible that might be out of alignment causing the no start.

I couldn't find a neutral safety switch on the column.