Starting My Gbody LS Swap

[motorheadmike]

LOS HINES. Make sure that is in fact a 5.3 because 4.8 came in trucks as well. There is no way to tell from the outside

The pan almost always comes off, the P/N on the crank is an easy tell.

 

[LOS HINES]

Good news folks. The Crank inspection went well. They polished the SH*T out of it and said it was good to re-use. I took the block and heads out last Friday to have them double check everything and see if we need to bore it out any. Hope to get a call back in a week or so with next steps. So far i know for sure that i'm doing the trunion upgrade to get rid of those roller bearings on the rockers. Still undecided on Cam and Pistons, but i think i want a stage 2 cam as i dont plan on running any boost on it. (As fun as it sounds...) Thank you all for the input and sharing your lessons learned with me. I'll be sure to post some pictures in a few weeks of the build. Going shopping for a bad a$$ torque wrench and one of those fancy angle gauges so I can put ol humpty back together again.

Stay Safe everyone!

 

[LOS HINES]

NEVER ADD IT UP BRO!!!!!!! I did that years ago with my 355 setup, got to like $13K and about got sick, haven't tallied since. I keep receipts if there is a warranty claim, but other than that just enjoy it.

Word!

LOL. Noted. I made the mistake of adding up everything i did to the car without talking about the LS motor and darn. Wasnt that bad, but I was just doing the basics so I could put some faith in the car, Breaks, Shocks, tune up' etc....

 

[LOS HINES]

Well I haven't added it all up but it's a large stack of receipts.

Do you have a You tube vlog to go with this build?

 

[Streetbu]

I'd suggest you start following and watching Sloppy Mechanics on YouTube. You don't need new headbolts, a fancy torque angle gauge, or a lot of things we always used to do.

 

[fleming442]

Does it count if you torque to yield reused torque to yield bolts? I did on the Series 2 with a protractor. Oh, well, they're almost all even! 😃

 

[64nailhead]

Tell us something of what you want. If you're going to stick with an NA build, then spend your money on a good set of headers. If you plan to spin it to 7K, then 1 3/4 primaries. If you intend to keep it below 6K, then 1 1/2 or 1 5/8". Long tubes are a must. In terms of pistons and rods, the cheapest stock crap you can find will live forever - it is the LS advantage. New head bolts, or head studs and new TTY fasteners just aren't needed (unless it makes you feel better - and I know the feeling.) I'm running used rod and head bolts and pushing 20+ psi at over 7300 rpms through a 4.8. If fuel mileage is not a concern then put the compression to at least 10.5-11:1 with your piston/head selection and put in a stage 3 cam - Tick Performance or BTR. Both will give lots of idle rumpety rump and will show off once you hit 4500-5000 rpms.



No matter what you pick, it will work out. Tony was spot on that the Holley stuff is very nice. But other cheaper stuff works as well. The most important and expensive piece IMO is the oil pan. There is no cheap and easy solution to this other than an F-body pan. But I would not beat hard on an F-body pan due to the mid pan pickup. But if beating on it isn't in the plan, then it will work great. I'm running an SUV pan that hangs down about an inch and a half. I understand how it might bother some to have the pan be that low, but it doesn't bother me at all 🙂🙂

 

[BuckeyeNewYorker]

Whats up everyone! I hope you all are staying safe. So.... I'm starting the rebuild of my LS swap. I found what I believe to be a LM7 5.3 out of a 2002 Silverado, Mileage is unknown, but I can tell you after breaking it down there is no way that this thing could have been getting the oil it needed. The motor was gunked up so bad it appear to save most of the internals. Pistons came out in one piece, Cam was toast and I'm not to certain about the Crank.

My plan is to take the Crank to a professional have it cleaned, inspected and polished up if possible. Once that is complete i'll take the block back to the shop to have it washed up again and bored out for a new set of pistons and a Cam with bearings all the way through.

I did not get a harness, intake, injectors, coil pack or accessories with it, but for what i got it for I think I can take my sweet time on the rebuild process that way i can spend the $ to say its done right.

This will be going in my 85 Cutlass Salon which is currently sporting a V6, weak transmission and non posi rear end. Thing wont pull your head back going down hill, but I still love cruising in it and Look forward to the day I can hear it chopping. I hope to find a 4l80E to keep up with the 5.3 but that will come once i get the motor buttoned back up a bit. I always say if i was back in the lower 48 States as we say here in Alaska, parts would be easier to come by. I'm always seeing deals down there, but shipping is a b****.

I know someone has a parts list around here that i can search for, but I'm currently doing research on engine mounts. Any one wanna share their v6 to LS v8 engine mount story or post the perfect link?

Thank you in advance and I look forward to the replies.

Stay Safe everyone.

Did you buy your motor mounts yet? I went with dirty dingoes and I like them. I'm in the process if plopping the motor in and the slider mounts make this process SO much easier.

edit - I also got mine used from LS1tech. I didn't buy mine new but it is like new

 

[BuckeyeNewYorker]

NEVER ADD IT UP BRO!!!!!!! I did that years ago with my 355 setup, got to like $13K and about got sick, haven't tallied since. I keep receipts if there is a warranty claim, but other than that just enjoy it.

HAHAHAHAHA I hit $13.5K last week and I stopped tallying. It's a good reference but after adding 4 50$ mistake purchases to my list I just said f*** it and started pretending like my mistakes don't exist. Only on paper of course. Hahahaha you guys told me so.

 

[Turbolq4]

Welcome to the fun.

You let the magic smoke out of that engine by tearing it down. Shoulda just slammed it in and run 15/40 diesel oil. It'll clear up that sludge and makes the valvetrain happy. MLS head gaskets and stock (reused) head bolts are nearly bullet proof.


No, I'm not kidding.