Tell us something of what you want. If you're going to stick with an NA build, then spend your money on a good set of headers. If you plan to spin it to 7K, then 1 3/4 primaries. If you intend to keep it below 6K, then 1 1/2 or 1 5/8". Long tubes are a must. In terms of pistons and rods, the cheapest stock crap you can find will live forever - it is the LS advantage. New head bolts, or head studs and new TTY fasteners just aren't needed (unless it makes you feel better - and I know the feeling.) I'm running used rod and head bolts and pushing 20+ psi at over 7300 rpms through a 4.8. If fuel mileage is not a concern then put the compression to at least 10.5-11:1 with your piston/head selection and put in a stage 3 cam - Tick Performance or BTR. Both will give lots of idle rumpety rump and will show off once you hit 4500-5000 rpms.
No matter what you pick, it will work out. Tony was spot on that the Holley stuff is very nice. But other cheaper stuff works as well. The most important and expensive piece IMO is the oil pan. There is no cheap and easy solution to this other than an F-body pan. But I would not beat hard on an F-body pan due to the mid pan pickup. But if beating on it isn't in the plan, then it will work great. I'm running an SUV pan that hangs down about an inch and a half. I understand how it might bother some to have the pan be that low, but it doesn't bother me at all 🙂🙂
