Just thinking about it check the contact brush the at the bottom of where the coil sits. If it's worn out it won't make contact with the rotor, not passing the voltage to the spark plug wire.
Starting problem !
- Thread starter mickeypowa
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ok so I just tested my coil like in the video and the values seems to be ok : I have 0.5 ohms between white and yellow wire wheras the guys has 0.4 ohms.
and then I have 8850 ohms between the center of the coil and the ground... so it seems to be ok !
here is a photo of the little spring there is under the coil, but it seems to be in good shape !
sorry I didn't understand what you say, I take a wire, ground it with the same screw where theres is the ring on the coil yes ok ! but then where do I ground it? what is the firewall ?
do you think that the ground of my coil is bad ?
what else can I check next ? I have to pull out the rotor ?
and then I have 8850 ohms between the center of the coil and the ground... so it seems to be ok !
here is a photo of the little spring there is under the coil, but it seems to be in good shape !
sorry I didn't understand what you say, I take a wire, ground it with the same screw where theres is the ring on the coil yes ok ! but then where do I ground it? what is the firewall ?
do you think that the ground of my coil is bad ?
what else can I check next ? I have to pull out the rotor ?
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Ok thanks, I will remove the cap and check rotor tomorow, I will send you photos !
And where is located the module you are talking about ? is it the ignition control module ?
thanks
And where is located the module you are talking about ? is it the ignition control module ?
thanks
Nevermind, in the 2nd pic, I can see you already have it. Just make sure you have a ground on the center wire of the 3 pin plug. The ground for the coil isn't entirely necessary, but it is a good idea to have it.
As stated, pull the cap and rotor- replace them if you can. While the rotor is off, check the 2 wires coming from the VR sensor in the base of the distributor to the module. They can become brittle and break. If all that checks out, it might be a good idea to replace the module. I've never had one fail, but many here have.
Check to see which module you have before running out and buying one should you decide to replace it. The 4 pin or 7 pin. I've only seen the 7 pin on the Olds V8 distributors of the era that's computer controlled. But you never know.
GM p/n 19179591 or equivalent is the part number you seek if it's a 7 pin. (Standard Motor Products is LX315, Airtex/Wells is 6H1041)
If you don't get a heat sink paste packet with the new module, stop by Autozone and pick up a packet of paste, p/n SL203 for about 3 bucks. Or any of the box car parts stores should have it.
GM p/n 19179591 or equivalent is the part number you seek if it's a 7 pin. (Standard Motor Products is LX315, Airtex/Wells is 6H1041)
If you don't get a heat sink paste packet with the new module, stop by Autozone and pick up a packet of paste, p/n SL203 for about 3 bucks. Or any of the box car parts stores should have it.
I always had a spare module when I had an HEI, now that I run an MSD I have a spare distributor....😉
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