Take yours to a transmission shop, get a quote for a cut and clean with a restall to 2400. It will be worth it and cost less than a new converter.
Stock ls2, higher stall?
- Thread starter Patobusta
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But would it be recommended to increase stall despite the engine been bone stock?
I do have that 2200-2500 monster converter lying around brand new. May not be the best out there.. but shouldn't be terrible either i guess.
The thing im afraid of is increasing the stall speed more than 1k rpm in a stock engine, not sure how it will behave.
I remember driving a 69 vette with a zz4 and a sort of 4k stall converter.. ir was really fast but was terrible in traffic.. it wont move until you really push it over 3k.. not a good remember..
I do have that 2200-2500 monster converter lying around brand new. May not be the best out there.. but shouldn't be terrible either i guess.
The thing im afraid of is increasing the stall speed more than 1k rpm in a stock engine, not sure how it will behave.
I remember driving a 69 vette with a zz4 and a sort of 4k stall converter.. ir was really fast but was terrible in traffic.. it wont move until you really push it over 3k.. not a good remember..
Reading to learn here so I'll just add my story....
Years ago the 4l60e in our '02 CE T/A gernaded. I had it rebuilt w/some upgrades (Vette servo, shift kit) & they offered choice of stall. It was completely stock motor wise w/the exception of a CAI but I wanted to put a turbo on it @ some point so they recommened a higher stall speed. I recall they said it was 2600 but not 100% sure.
The difference in driving 'as-is' was night & day. You tapped the gas & it reved/pulled in the blink of an eye. Didn't think it would have an impact like that so I was impressed.
I'm trying to get my buddy to go slightly higher stall for the 5.3 swap going into my old '90 model OBS single cab short bed pick-up. He's putting in a BTR Stage-2 NSR truck cam so I was thinking 2400 for him. I also recommended he put more gear in it to. He went to a taller (30") 17" wheel/tire combo so I think the 3.42's need to be 3.55's or 3.73's
Years ago the 4l60e in our '02 CE T/A gernaded. I had it rebuilt w/some upgrades (Vette servo, shift kit) & they offered choice of stall. It was completely stock motor wise w/the exception of a CAI but I wanted to put a turbo on it @ some point so they recommened a higher stall speed. I recall they said it was 2600 but not 100% sure.
The difference in driving 'as-is' was night & day. You tapped the gas & it reved/pulled in the blink of an eye. Didn't think it would have an impact like that so I was impressed.
I'm trying to get my buddy to go slightly higher stall for the 5.3 swap going into my old '90 model OBS single cab short bed pick-up. He's putting in a BTR Stage-2 NSR truck cam so I was thinking 2400 for him. I also recommended he put more gear in it to. He went to a taller (30") 17" wheel/tire combo so I think the 3.42's need to be 3.55's or 3.73's
Stall in converters is a loose term. Blown big block 3000 stall will be a tight 2000 on a SBC, rear gears will make a difference and so will vehicle weight. I run a 3200 on my cutlass in a 4L80e and it does really well around town in traffic, but it is made for a high HP boosted application so it stalls to 3200 when I apply power to it. a 2200-2400 stall made for a low power SBC street car might be a bit slippery for some people if you have only driven a stock 1500 stall, however it will get you into peak torque numbers on acceleration sooner and make your car "faster". To be honest you shouldn't really notice a 2200-2400 stall until you floor it.
The BEST thing you can do, if you want to have the right reccommendation, is to call the converter builder. Tell them exactly what you have and what you use it for. The more honest you are the better the fit will be. Plus if you buy from a builder they will ususally restall it for free once, so if you arent happy they will give you and opportunity to get it sorted out. This is also why a quality converter costs more than an off the shelf B&M or Hughes.
If this were an SBC application I'd say get a 4.3 car converter. I'm not sure what they did with the late 4.3 trucks to mate them to an LS trans, but they stalled at 2000+ behind a V6. They stall higher behind a V8.
Here's the 278mm GM converter from Circle D. This is the Trailblazer SS converter. They cut it open and build it to your stall speed. They are good at making a recommendation on stall speed. I don't think you would regret a quality converter like this that is just a mild bump like 2600-2800 RPM.
Not all converters are equal. A quality unit won't be so loose. I had the converter above, stalled at 3200-3400 in my truck for about 90k miles and it was too tight for my combination and it was kinda doggy in the low end. I now have a 258mm converter in there with the 4L85E. It's stalled at 3600-3700. I know that sounds extreme but keep in mind the truck weighs 5600 lbs, runs 32" tires and has 4.10 rear gears. It's a near perfect match with the cam. The truck is quick and fun. I daily drive it.
All things equal, a larger diameter converter will feel tighter. You'd be very safe with a TBSS converter.
GM 278mm HP 4L60 LS Torque Converter
Great torque converter for a DD performance vehicle. This converter will have great street manners and only flash high when you want it. A nice durable option for everyday use.
www.circledspecialties.com
Not all converters are equal. A quality unit won't be so loose. I had the converter above, stalled at 3200-3400 in my truck for about 90k miles and it was too tight for my combination and it was kinda doggy in the low end. I now have a 258mm converter in there with the 4L85E. It's stalled at 3600-3700. I know that sounds extreme but keep in mind the truck weighs 5600 lbs, runs 32" tires and has 4.10 rear gears. It's a near perfect match with the cam. The truck is quick and fun. I daily drive it.
All things equal, a larger diameter converter will feel tighter. You'd be very safe with a TBSS converter.
Duke's post sums it up IMO. Weight, power, gearing are all needed information for determining the correct converter.
Your best solution is to find a knowledgeable converter guy that you trust. There are many trustworthy guys, and once you find one stick with him. Hughes, Circle D, PATC, FTI, or my preferred choice - Freakshow Performance.
Be sure to find someone that will re-stall it for free in case you don't like it. Most any electronic trans can control how it drives with programming via changing the lockup points. You can have a 4500 stall that drives around town like a grocery getter if you have a tuner that can program the lockup strategy correctly.
I'll describe how mine works. I have to rev the motor to about 1200-1300 to get the car to want to move. Once it moves it feels like a normal car (other than a spool out back when tight cornering at low speeds). If I want to get up and go, then I push the pedal far enough to drop a gear and wait .2-.5 seconds. This should put me into the 2700-3400 rpm range, then I drop the pedal and the rpm's will flash to low 4k'S and it'll be another .5 of a second and it will be either getting traction or it wont at 5K-5500 rpm's, Michael spec'd the converter from what I told him I was after and what I had.
Regarding Michael at Freakshow, I burnt up the transmission last year. I sent him the converter to go through because the trans was full of debris. He cut it open, cleaned it and sent it back to me for NO CHARGE. I paid the shipping and he did it in less than 10 days from my door. He said he would re-stall it for no charge if I wanted and I told him 3500 was working well.
If I were you, then I'd try the converter that you already have because 4L___ are not cheap converters. But if it sucks balls, then buy something from someone that you trust.
Your best solution is to find a knowledgeable converter guy that you trust. There are many trustworthy guys, and once you find one stick with him. Hughes, Circle D, PATC, FTI, or my preferred choice - Freakshow Performance.
Be sure to find someone that will re-stall it for free in case you don't like it. Most any electronic trans can control how it drives with programming via changing the lockup points. You can have a 4500 stall that drives around town like a grocery getter if you have a tuner that can program the lockup strategy correctly.
I'll describe how mine works. I have to rev the motor to about 1200-1300 to get the car to want to move. Once it moves it feels like a normal car (other than a spool out back when tight cornering at low speeds). If I want to get up and go, then I push the pedal far enough to drop a gear and wait .2-.5 seconds. This should put me into the 2700-3400 rpm range, then I drop the pedal and the rpm's will flash to low 4k'S and it'll be another .5 of a second and it will be either getting traction or it wont at 5K-5500 rpm's, Michael spec'd the converter from what I told him I was after and what I had.
Regarding Michael at Freakshow, I burnt up the transmission last year. I sent him the converter to go through because the trans was full of debris. He cut it open, cleaned it and sent it back to me for NO CHARGE. I paid the shipping and he did it in less than 10 days from my door. He said he would re-stall it for no charge if I wanted and I told him 3500 was working well.
If I were you, then I'd try the converter that you already have because 4L___ are not cheap converters. But if it sucks balls, then buy something from someone that you trust.
I have a budget stall converter in my truck. I hate it. I need to rev the engine to get the truck to move. Do NOT waste your money on a cheap stall converter. I spent $900 for a Quality Circle D converter in the Olds. It has a stall speed of 2800 but still drives normally around town unless you give it the onions.
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