Subs 80' Saga Inc.

[pontiacgp]

If you are on your own it probably is easier to remove the transmission first. For the top bolts on the bell housing I remove the cooling lines and the cross member to let the transmission drop a bit so the top bolts are visible and then use a 18" extension and a 9/16" wobble socket to get those bolts out.

 

[Texas82GP]

Thats how i pulled the last motor /trans i yanked. but i had help from a few people to move the picker and swing and angle the motor/trans. this go around ill be doing it myself. So i think your right dropping the trans is more work, but easier when it come to pulling the block, IMO.
I "should" have the trans out to day.

Thanks again to the entire site. good information here.

I may get some ridicule but when I pulled the engine in my car, I didnt want to pull the hood. It has nice paint and the alignment is good so I dropped the trans first and then pulled the engine with the hood on the car. I agree it is easier to pull the trans first when you are by yourself.

 

[SUBLIME80BU]

If you are on your own it probably is easier to remove the transmission first. For the top bolts on the bell housing I remove the cooling lines and the cross member to let the transmission drop a bit so the top bolts are visible and then use a 18" extension and a 9/16" wobble socket to get those bolts out.

Nice post, that was going to be my next question, loosen or remove cross member? Right on! Second question is the stock exhaust, should i be worried about saving the exhaust or at least the front y-pipe,is there a certain header set i should be looking for? I dont plan on using the dutch oven sized CAT, but it would be nice to re-use some of the exhaust until i can get it to the exhaust shop that would be in a month i'd imagine.

Gotta love the can worms...

 

[axisg]

you mention a motor built to LT1 specs. Are you referring to the classic SBC 1970-1972 LT1 or the newer fuel injected 1996-2003 LT1 ? The 4.4 / 267 is a SBC, so another SBC will drop in its place. I am struggling to recall the heads used on the 267 however. I know some years the 305 got the exhaust manifolds with the last hole on the passenger side ( closest to the firewall ) further back than say a head used on a 350. I cannot recall the head used on the 267 and if it would have that extra hole or not.
I would think that if indeed it is an SBC for SBC swap you could re-use all your existing exhaust from the 267 on the new motor. Now if you are referring to the 1996 era of LT1 then the exhaust would be custom from the cat convertor forward.

 

[SUBLIME80BU]

you mention a motor built to LT1 specs. Are you referring to the classic SBC 1970-1972 LT1 or the newer fuel injected 1996-2003 LT1 ? The 4.4 / 267 is a SBC, so another SBC will drop in its place. I am struggling to recall the heads used on the 267 however. I know some years the 305 got the exhaust manifolds with the last hole on the passenger side ( closest to the firewall ) further back than say a head used on a 350. I cannot recall the head used on the 267 and if it would have that extra hole or not.
I would think that if indeed it is an SBC for SBC swap you could re-use all your existing exhaust from the 267 on the new motor. Now if you are referring to the 1996 era of LT1 then the exhaust would be custom from the cat convertor forward.

70ish 4bolt block , the lingo is a bit over my head. the builder says " its built to Lt1 standards" and i says.. "I'll take it!"

Give me a hour or so ill take the top end apart and shoot a pic of the manifolds and when i get the new motor i should have a build sheet.

 

[SUBLIME80BU]

The lil guys manifold... if theres a better angle let me know and ill shoot more pics. I also can pull the valve cover, if need be.

 

[pontiacgp]

I may get some ridicule but when I pulled the engine in my car, I didnt want to pull the hood. It has nice paint and the alignment is good so I dropped the trans first and then pulled the engine with the hood on the car. I agree it is easier to pull the trans first when you are by yourself.

you can remove the bolt for the hinge of the hood from the inner fender and the hood will open alot more

 

[565bbchevy]

I always just scribe marks around the washers for the hood bolts before removing the hood and just line them back up when I reinstall it
I also use longer dowel pins on the back of the block to make it easier to line up the engine with the trans.

 

[axisg]

per the ebay link below. I know it lists a marine head but regardless some of the late 70's and early 80's heads came with this weird dual bolt pattern on the last bolt of the head on the passenger side. I cant tell by the picture you posted but if your exhaust manifold uses that wider bolt pattern or not. Some aftermarket heads have that extra bolt hole as well but not all.

If your existing manifold matches the head on the new motor then you can re-use 100% of your existing exhaust on the new motor and upgrade as your budget allows..

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=400511538640

It sounds like my motor. LT1 for 70-72 was a hotter camshaft, more compression 9.5-10.5:1 depending on the year, alum intake, steel crank instead of cast, hardened "pink" rods, bigger carb.

 

[SUBLIME80BU]

Nice thanks again fellas, got the trans out. I came across this gem on the webs, any one know what kinda of turn lens those are