Summit Copper Radiator
- Thread starter mikester
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If you look at the majority of the threads that talk about aluminum radiators the biggest complaint is the way they fit. The rubber saddles never fit right due to the shape of the tanks. This is exactly why I got rid of the "custom Fit" Griffin that I bought for my 81 coupe and went with an OEM style 4 row from US Radiator. I dont want any issues with the saddles or mounting the hold down or shroud. At this point Im looking for an easy bolt in install.
If the local auto parts sold a plastic tank aluminum in a 3 row that would be what Id have in the car but they dont come that way.
I always look at anything that is not an OEM replacement to require some form of modification to fit and IMO doing a simple modification to a rubber saddle to fit a thicker, better cooling aluminum radiator with no other mods to make it work along with saving money is a no brainer.
And you can always buy some aftermarket urethane saddles and modify those and save your originals if that is a concern.
And you can always buy some aftermarket urethane saddles and modify those and save your originals if that is a concern.
I think the biggest problem there is that sheeple look at a generic list that says "fits xxxx" and sees their car within a list of 30 or 40 different makes and models, ignores the fine print saying some minor mods may be required, the just blindly orders one and somehow expects a perfect fit.
Sometimes the catalogs list more than one radiator for the same make/model/year/engine too.
If you measure the core, and order a replacement with the same width and height of core you're fine, regardless of whether its brass, aluminum, or plastic tanks. Mess with thickness all you want, just order by core dimensions.
Knowing you're looking at a copper radiator but this is my experiance with the "direct fit" Cold Case I got for my '81. I got the RPE544A/GMG544A (new p/n is GMB57A) since it was a more stock looking than most of the square edge ones out there. Since they said "direct fit" I jumped on it. But reality kicked in when it didn't fit the stock saddles, taller, fan shroud didn't. It was a headache but got a set of poly saddles that was trimmed to allow it sit at the right height, got another shroud to trim the rib fillers. It fits good now. A perk was the upper hose outlet is 1.5" so I was able to use a '78-'80 hose & no need for a hose adapter that I needed on the copper 3 core that needs recored (was about 1" & needed the included adaptor for the '81's 1.25" hose.) Did have to trim about .25" off the rad side of the lower hose (& should do the same for the upper.) I did want a copper radiator myself but couldn't find a good one locally, on line was more expensive than what I paid for the Cold Case. Now someday I hope to recore the old one & get a 1.5" upper outlet added for a back up or another project if I find it. FYI for anyone else reading this post Cold case does have a 1.25" upper outlet for the '81 up hose as p/n GMG544A-1.
gbodyforum.com
My Cold Case radiator
Since I got the exhaust to a point I decided to do a quick mock up on the Cold Case I finally got. Pulled out the rad support & shroud, made sure I had all four wide tank rad pads in place, tossed it in. Noticed the stock pads are not as wide/open to allow the tanks the sit like the stock rad...
gbodyforum.com
Question: I note someone says there is a difference in cooling between copper and aluminum with aluminum being better. Is there detriment of using aluminum radiators? Is it necessary to install a sacrificial rod to combat/prevent dissimilar metal reaction in the cooling system?
Copper/brass radiators conduct heat better than aluminum, BUT, the lead solder used to assemble them is a terrible heat conductor. All-welded aluminum is very close too copper/brass as assembled in terms of heat transfer.
Cooling systems have always had dissimilar metals (brass rads and iron heads/blocks/aluminum pumps). Use a quality coolant approved for aluminum and you should be good. And flush refill regularly, too many people never change it and that's where troubles can get out of hand.
Cooling systems have always had dissimilar metals (brass rads and iron heads/blocks/aluminum pumps). Use a quality coolant approved for aluminum and you should be good. And flush refill regularly, too many people never change it and that's where troubles can get out of hand.
Knowing you're looking at a copper radiator but this is my experiance with the "direct fit" Cold Case I got for my '81. I got the RPE544A/GMG544A (new p/n is GMB57A) since it was a more stock looking than most of the square edge ones out there. Since they said "direct fit" I jumped on it. But reality kicked in when it didn't fit the stock saddles, taller, fan shroud didn't. It was a headache but got a set of poly saddles that was trimmed to allow it sit at the right height, got another shroud to trim the rib fillers. It fits good now. A perk was the upper hose outlet is 1.5" so I was able to use a '78-'80 hose & no need for a hose adapter that I needed on the copper 3 core that needs recored (was about 1" & needed the included adaptor for the '81's 1.25" hose.) Did have to trim about .25" off the rad side of the lower hose (& should do the same for the upper.) I did want a copper radiator myself but couldn't find a good one locally, on line was more expensive than what I paid for the Cold Case. Now someday I hope to recore the old one & get a 1.5" upper outlet added for a back up or another project if I find it. FYI for anyone else reading this post Cold case does have a 1.25" upper outlet for the '81 up hose as p/n GMG544A-1.
My Cold Case radiator
Since I got the exhaust to a point I decided to do a quick mock up on the Cold Case I finally got. Pulled out the rad support & shroud, made sure I had all four wide tank rad pads in place, tossed it in. Noticed the stock pads are not as wide/open to allow the tanks the sit like the stock rad...
Wait, did I understand you right ? The early 78-80 upper hose is a different size than the newer models ? That was the one thing that held me back from buying the one from Summit. According to the specs the upper is stepped down from 1 9/16 to 1 5/16. Think that 1 1/2 early hose would slip over that extra 1/16" ??
In early April I installed a Summit radiator but a fitting for one of the transmission oil cooler lines was fused to the pipe so I ended-up torquing-it-apart, in making a temporary fix I cross-threaded the connection so my mechanic -- where I took it for a permanent fix to the cooling line -- ended-up swapping-out the Summit.
All my "Summit radiator experience," then, is with installation:
All my "Summit radiator experience," then, is with installation:
- No problems with installation, fit like original
- Someone else has mentioned they don't like the plastic screw-in plug for the drain; it's a common complaint in the reviews posted on Summit, a brass drain valve costs less than $10 ... be aware that for my OE radiator, the drain was at the bottom on the passenger side & pointed down (accessible through a cut-out in the bottom radiator support) while the drain in the Summit radiator is pointed backwards on the driver side
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