Since you're dropping the tank, might be a good time to change the rubber hose from the sending unit to the hard line. They like to collapse. That could be part of your problem as well, especially if the in tank screen is clogged.
BUILD THREAD Sweet Johnny & Gina: A Love "Two Large" To Fail
- Thread starter Sweet_Johnny
- Start date
I like the way you think. I inspected those lines when I removed the muffler and was shocked to see that they were in excellent shape- someone had obviously changed them at some point. I'll absolutely be replacing them as well, I just hope I don't tear the rubber ring when removing the sending unit.
I owe you an apology SoFloG, because I kind of lied to ya. I did inspect the rubber hoses I saw but they were only 50% of the ones up there- I guess I forgot about the others even existing. The easily visible hoses looked to be good in condition but were a little too long, and the feed line sure seemed like it wanted to collapse at a moment's notice. Here's a pic of those old lines vs. the new shorter ones I replaced them with. The feed line is on the left.
Following that I proceeded to drop the tank using a scissor lift style transmission jack from Harbor Freight because it offers a much larger platform/pad to lift and lower with. It also goes straight up and down instead of following an arc like a traditional floor jack, and that's exactly what you want in this scenario. I remembered the sending unit wire but forgot about the ground wire until the tank was halfway out and that made the strap into a slight obstacle to removing the small screw holding the wire on. I should've taken that off sooner but it was no big deal to do it now.
Once I slid the tank out from under the car I saw something that made me proclaim "Well there's your problem!" to absolutely nobody at all because I was alone, and then laugh maniacally. Check out the following pictures and I think you'll immediately see what's been causing me so much grief.
These just may be the original hoses from 1978, and they sure look like it. They're so incredibly deteriorated that I'm surprised the pump ever got gas up to the engine bay, and I think I'm lucky that there wasn't a constant puddle of it under the rear of my car. I used brake cleaner and Grime Away wipes to clean the top of the tank and all the hard lines but forgot to snap a photo.
I replaced those hoses and used other longer ones in front of the tank to temporarily hook it back up to run the engine and see if it would die. Part of me wanted to open the tank and have a look, but another part of me wanted to avoid doing that unnecessarily and tearing a rubber O-ring that I had no replacement for. I've pulled the fuel filter 4 times to check it in the last 2 days and it comes out squeaky clean every time so I'm inclined to believe that fine sediment was not part of the issue. Maybe there were flakes of rust but with so little gas in the tank they'd make their presence known quickly. Gina stayed alive like the Bee Gees, the filter remained clean, and I detected flow when I squeezed the rubber line feeding the new Carter pump so I felt confident tucking the gas tank back into bed.
The tank went back in smooth as silk and I didn't even get sand in my eyes which is a miracle considering the conditions here. Things were going very, very well. I once again let the engine idle, both in Park and in gear, and everything was copacetic. I then took Gina for a drive on pavement where I could "put it to the wood" and that went well too! She didn't peel out but she didn't try to buck me off either. I was able to actually floor it from a standstill and hold it there through all the gears without a single cough, sputter, or issue at all. I then let out a Phil Swift style "WAHOOO!!" and returned home to clean up.
Now I'm off to drive my route to work as a test and then run a few errands since I once again have faith that I won't end up on the side of the road. Have a great day folks, you won't hear from me until after dark.
Following that I proceeded to drop the tank using a scissor lift style transmission jack from Harbor Freight because it offers a much larger platform/pad to lift and lower with. It also goes straight up and down instead of following an arc like a traditional floor jack, and that's exactly what you want in this scenario. I remembered the sending unit wire but forgot about the ground wire until the tank was halfway out and that made the strap into a slight obstacle to removing the small screw holding the wire on. I should've taken that off sooner but it was no big deal to do it now.
Once I slid the tank out from under the car I saw something that made me proclaim "Well there's your problem!" to absolutely nobody at all because I was alone, and then laugh maniacally. Check out the following pictures and I think you'll immediately see what's been causing me so much grief.
These just may be the original hoses from 1978, and they sure look like it. They're so incredibly deteriorated that I'm surprised the pump ever got gas up to the engine bay, and I think I'm lucky that there wasn't a constant puddle of it under the rear of my car. I used brake cleaner and Grime Away wipes to clean the top of the tank and all the hard lines but forgot to snap a photo.
I replaced those hoses and used other longer ones in front of the tank to temporarily hook it back up to run the engine and see if it would die. Part of me wanted to open the tank and have a look, but another part of me wanted to avoid doing that unnecessarily and tearing a rubber O-ring that I had no replacement for. I've pulled the fuel filter 4 times to check it in the last 2 days and it comes out squeaky clean every time so I'm inclined to believe that fine sediment was not part of the issue. Maybe there were flakes of rust but with so little gas in the tank they'd make their presence known quickly. Gina stayed alive like the Bee Gees, the filter remained clean, and I detected flow when I squeezed the rubber line feeding the new Carter pump so I felt confident tucking the gas tank back into bed.
The tank went back in smooth as silk and I didn't even get sand in my eyes which is a miracle considering the conditions here. Things were going very, very well. I once again let the engine idle, both in Park and in gear, and everything was copacetic. I then took Gina for a drive on pavement where I could "put it to the wood" and that went well too! She didn't peel out but she didn't try to buck me off either. I was able to actually floor it from a standstill and hold it there through all the gears without a single cough, sputter, or issue at all. I then let out a Phil Swift style "WAHOOO!!" and returned home to clean up.
Now I'm off to drive my route to work as a test and then run a few errands since I once again have faith that I won't end up on the side of the road. Have a great day folks, you won't hear from me until after dark.
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Jr.'s '79 has it's main line to pump hose look like that & I'm guessing the rear hoses will look like yours. I'm guessing his are worse since we can't pull any fuel from the tank.
Ahh those look good, clean them up and put them back in...
Actually 1 and 4 look like the problem children.
On the wires and stuff, keep an eye on rock auto. I like the cut your own type because I usually do the under header setups for the show cars.
Typical Taylor set is anywhere from 40 to 60, but you can get sets on RA just as good for under 20. Might not be red, but black, grey, blue or yellow. 8 and 9 mm. Some times never know till you you open package.
Plugs... I've gotten plugs on clearance as little as .69 cents each. Few years back I bought several sets of iridium and platinum plugs for next to nothing and on top each plug had a manufacture rebate of $2.50 a plug, just had to send in end tab with the printed upc code.
On the wire looms look for those on amazon, usually anodized color or chrome. I have several sets in boxes. I'll send you a set.
Actually 1 and 4 look like the problem children.
On the wires and stuff, keep an eye on rock auto. I like the cut your own type because I usually do the under header setups for the show cars.
Typical Taylor set is anywhere from 40 to 60, but you can get sets on RA just as good for under 20. Might not be red, but black, grey, blue or yellow. 8 and 9 mm. Some times never know till you you open package.
Plugs... I've gotten plugs on clearance as little as .69 cents each. Few years back I bought several sets of iridium and platinum plugs for next to nothing and on top each plug had a manufacture rebate of $2.50 a plug, just had to send in end tab with the printed upc code.
On the wire looms look for those on amazon, usually anodized color or chrome. I have several sets in boxes. I'll send you a set.
Yeah, that sounds about right. I'd say you're a step ahead in the sense that you already know that you've got to drop the tank. Since I'd been driving the car for weeks I just took it for granted that I had no issues back there. Ya know, like a dumb dumb.
P.S., I'm a big fan of what you're doing with your son. I think it's very important for parents to make strong bonds with their kids and spend time together working towards a common goal. Getting to go to car shows together and him having a solid set of wheels just makes it that much better.
I originally thought that the 3/8" feed had a braided covering on it until I went in for a closer look. I've seen some bad rubbers before but that's impressive.
On the FP you made a better choice with what you have. Fuel sufficiency is a clear coke bottle or Mason jar. Crank for about 5 seconds and jar should be half full or more. 30 GPH is .5 gal per minute. 5 seconds ( 1 one thousand.. 2 one thousand.... 5 one thousand) and stop... Go look at jar...
On the sock take off gas cap, blow air into the supply line, just a 1 second puff of compressed air. It might blow the sock off but it will clean the crud out and least keep you going to work until later.
Pull the tank like you plan is the best way. You can remove lock ring and pull unit with sender and sock, and flush tank with hot water then let drain. Pool chemicals Muriatic Acid is a less than commercial grade of hydrochloric, you can put about 200 ml, or just 16 oz or about. Swish it around carefully as it is acid, let sit about 10 to 15 min then dilute down with water (garden hose) and then dump. This will clean out all the dried on embedded garbage that collects from the additives in today's fuel.
Rinse out again with water and dump. Any remaining water just soak up with old bath towel and remove. Let tank air dry and you can use heat lamp for a bit to make it good and dry. From there clean and rebuild pickup unit with new sock and sender and put back together.
On the sock take off gas cap, blow air into the supply line, just a 1 second puff of compressed air. It might blow the sock off but it will clean the crud out and least keep you going to work until later.
Pull the tank like you plan is the best way. You can remove lock ring and pull unit with sender and sock, and flush tank with hot water then let drain. Pool chemicals Muriatic Acid is a less than commercial grade of hydrochloric, you can put about 200 ml, or just 16 oz or about. Swish it around carefully as it is acid, let sit about 10 to 15 min then dilute down with water (garden hose) and then dump. This will clean out all the dried on embedded garbage that collects from the additives in today's fuel.
Rinse out again with water and dump. Any remaining water just soak up with old bath towel and remove. Let tank air dry and you can use heat lamp for a bit to make it good and dry. From there clean and rebuild pickup unit with new sock and sender and put back together.
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Replace all the old hoses. The older 78 fuel line hoses will not live with today's fuel. Use current fuel line or increase safety factor by using the fuel injection rated line. Expensive about 5 dollars a foot but at least you know you car won't burn down.
Seen too many restorations burnt up because, not changing lines and using todays fuel.
Seen too many restorations burnt up because, not changing lines and using todays fuel.
