BUILD THREAD Sweet Johnny & Gina: A Love "Two Large" To Fail

On the wing, if you can, I need a side to side dimension. Might be able to use it.
At the widest I'm getting about 58". That's not an exact number since there's bubble wrap present. I'd be happy to remove it and get actual measurements.

Have a stack of HO Heads in storage.
The HO 305 heads for the SS? Because that term could apply to multiple factory cylinder heads really.
 
No looking for a doner.

Heads I have are 601 and 416. Monte SS

The truck and van of same year were all 305 HO. So as engines got smoked or yanked out and replaced with 350, every one available I could, I bought and just set as side. I was one of the few in AZ that built 305 4 Bolt Main.

Blocks I look for are 201, 202 and 776. They were earlier ones and had thicker webs. Have a couple blocks left but still have several sets of heads. Better than that is the 305 Vortec Truck heads. Not same profile as Vortec 350, but just slightly better than the 601s, and definitely better than the standard 305 heads, but harder to find now.

There's a lot if bad info out there and the idea to just put 305 head on, ... 58 CC..., raises compression, etc... That maybe true, but they don't flow and the biggest problem with the small block is scavenging. So this is why it responds better to the smaller ICL and LSA.

Slight overlap with flat tops or slight dome gets the exhaust out and incoming charge is cleaner. Yet, the 305 is still basically limited to about 330 HP 320 to 360 Torque, it's pistons are just too small in cross-section. It's not a bad engine it just never will be a 350 or 400.

On the wing it might work. I'm doing an A Team Van remake and the back of the van had a wing of that style, painted solid red to match the red stripe. So I need to measure and see if 58 will work.
 
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You'll learn people here love to spend your money hahaha
Well I guess as long as we all take turns....
Everyone gets Hot Wheels cars.
 
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Back to the Gina cleanup timeline.

After sitting under a tree for many years there was quite the buildup of leaves in the fenders, door jambs, and other places. Trust me, the pictures do not do it justice- its worse.IMG_20231026_145500833_HDR.jpgIMG_20231026_145516943.jpgIMG_20231026_145542927_HDR.jpg

The quickest and easiest way to clean that would be compressed air but I don't have a big setup, I've only got a battery operated compressor from Bauer. That meant it was portable, which was perfect aside from waiting for pressure. I can't do much mechanical or bodywork with this but it's still quite useful.IMG_20231030_175632347.jpg

The compressor was $100 on sale, the tank was only $30 @ 50% off (scratched), the whips are $5 each and the inline blow nozzles on each whip were about $12 each on Amazon (there's one just before the coupler on 2 of these hoses). I added a T fitting and coupler so this tank can be used inline, at the end of a line, or just filled quicker than through the Schrader valve. I also employ swivels whenever possible if the budget permits.

The extension on the main blow nozzle was perfect for getting behind brackets and in between the hinges as well as inside the fenders. It was absolutely better than just a regular rubber-tipped or long-reach air gun.
 
I have one of the small tanks, for the trunk.

Made my own filler just like you did works very good and have used it for years.

At the dealership made a long air "gun/wand" out of short section of steel brake line mated to a 1/4 NPT fitting and air line quick disconnect. Just had to be careful because it was full pressure unlike the "safety" air gun.
 

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I've been a bad, bad boy...IMG_20231108_174033465.jpg
 
It all started when a guy had a question and I raised my car to find the answer. I figured since it was already up, I'd take a gander at the exhaust system and see what I could pull off with what I had. Just looking, I promise. My welder is out of wire after all.

As it turns out, I had the bends and clamps kicking around the garage to basically make a new exhaust system without touching the gaskets on either side of the manifolds. It appears that the downpipes are about 1 3/4" each and merge to a 2 1/2" connection to the catalytic converter. Oddly enough, it returns to 2" when it exits the cat. I decided that running a single 2 1/2" pipe would be sufficient for Gina's power level and needs, which just so happens to be what I have the most of. I saw no reason to mess with the Y-pipe at all, so I'd be starting right where the cat clamped on. (Even though it had to be cut off)

I've done a couple exhaust systems before so I have an El Camino bed full of bends as well as extra mufflers and other items, and I definitely wanted dual exits if possible but at this point nothing was certain because I was making it up as I went. I started by picking through it all and choosing pieces that I thought I could make work together without too much effort, and laid them out on the ground. I considered running duals out the back since I've got some pipes already bent up for that, but sadly they won't work on this car. I had my choice of Raptor Turbo mufflers, Flowmasters, or a Jones Full Boar bullet muffler if I stole it from Roxanne.

I grabbed a coupler and clamp from my old '86 C10 exhaust, a straight leg and 2 stainless band clamps from my El Camino, 2 90° bends from the bed, 3 clamps from the shelf, and a single Flowmaster (offset in, center out) from under the table. I didn't purchase anything, and more importantly I didn't cut a thing after removing what was on the car. I literally pieced together a mockup exhaust with stuff I had just sitting around. And it fit. The first 90 crossed over right by the bolt-in floor support, the other hugged the driveshaft tunnel on the driver's side.
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With very minor tweaking I managed to get it to tuck up nice and tight (yes, I left at least 3/4" clearance). Still didn't cut a thing.
IMG_20231108_205557741.jpg

Now normally I try to avoid using 90° bends, U bends, or any other restrictive item and I certainly wouldn't use two 90s back to back. But for a smog-era 305 with a pitiful cam I didn't see it hurting anything, especially considering the 2" pipe and old converter it was replacing. I added a turndown after the muffler for now, but mocked up a "Y" with 45° bends & legs that exit near the rear wheels and like it much better. The current setup acts as an echo chamber, and dual exits always sound better to me anyway. I couldn't run it that way for now because I'm out of exhaust clamps and that "Y" has already been modified for Roxanne.

As for the sound, well, outside the car is great. Inside is.... not so bad really. I'm intimately familiar with about a dozen Flowmaster systems and this has the least amount of cabin presence of them all. That's probably due to the fact that it's only a 305 with a single pipe and muffler, whereas true duals would be much worse. My only problem is a bit of the ol' "Flow Drone", but again its not bad at all, really. I think that once I can split it and funnel the noise out the sides the back seat will quiet down- I wasn't able to drive it with that setup.

Edit: I added a single 45° bend between the muffler and turndown after finding another clamp, and interior noise from the exhaust is now virtually eliminated.
 
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Here's my quick fix for the headliner. I ended up adding black duct tape to make it look better but the tape added too much weight, especially when I drove on the turnpike with the window down. So I bought some spring loaded curtain rods at Dollar General and they solved the sagging issue. I know it's a ghetto job, but remember this is just to get it mobile. I'll replace the headliner with new foam and custom fabric when I eventually fix the sunroof. Fixing the sunroof, actual roof, and floor pans are important to me but not as important as being mobile- I'm living in someone else's basement with my truck in pieces.View attachment 230875View attachment 230876View attachment 230878
Again, this was done for the sole purpose of containing the headliner foam particles so they wouldn't blind me as I drove.
Tear the fabric off and vacuum all the foam off until it’s white. Job done.
 

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