HELP TCC standalone controller (I'm designing) for 200-4R or 700-R4

Here's the block diagram of what I implemented in circuitry:

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EDIT: added the relock timing
 

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@brrian
Yes, it would work for a TH350, you could just disable the 4th gear switch. If anyone wants to disable the 4th gear switch input, anyone can do so.

The TH350C has an internal switch and solenoid, I think the same thing as the 200-4R and 700-R4, except that it activates in 3rd gear instead of 4th. Does your device know what gear the trans is in, or does it just know that a switch activated, regardless of gear? The reason I ask is - you said I could disable the 4th gear switch. If the device doesn't care what gear the switch activates in, is there a need to disable it? Hope that makes sense...
 
Ah, yes, whatever switch is in the trans to know it it is in high gear is the one that is used as the input to the controller. Doesn't matter. If someone wanted to not use the high gear switch (I'll start calling it that), then they can just not connect it and it will be ignored. Connect it to the high gear switch to use it.
 
If anyone was wondering what the TCC solenoid uses for current, I measured the resistance of the coil in the solenoid (have a new one in a box). About 24.5ohms, so about 2A of current.😟 Quite the load I would say. So I used a pretty stout FET to drive it with 100milliohms of Rdson when the Vgs voltage is driven above 10V. 2A through it will dissipate 0.4W in it. Acceptable for the TO-220 case un-heatsinked on that transistor. With an RthetaJA of 65C/W, the temp rise will be 26C above ambient. If it gets to 50C in the car as a maximum (122F), the transistor will never get to over 76C. Max operating spec is 175C. Not an issue.

Just a snippet of my design thoughts for the moment...
 
Refering to the time delay.... adjustability from 5 to 10 seconds would be more ideal.
 
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The one thing I didn't like about the factory ECM TCC control was the unlock when relaxing the throttle to idle position on coast. E.g. when on the highway and the throttle is lifted for someone in front of you and then you step back on it lightly and it had unlocked and then re-engages. If traffic is tight, this happens a lot. I want it to stay engaged which mine now will.

Anyone else have thoughts on this?
 
4 - 5 seconds seems more relevant. I've seen systems, totally analog, homebuilt stuff that comes on or off based soly on 3rd or final line pressure.

Disconnects with brakes on, but engagement is direct on with final upshift, which is almost immediate or maybe .5 - 1 second delay. In certain circumstances, immediately at upshift... You essentially lug the engine which is not good.
 
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The 700 in my 84 was built in 03. It was setup initially for hydraulic lockup. There’s a spool valve added to the valve body and lockup solenoid blocked. No electronic controller needed. Lockup would happen a second after going into third then stay locked in fourth all the time. Worked well except in town speeds in third tc locked would lug the engine. Simple manual shift to second worked for yrs until one day I found the weak link. Tore the splines out the overrun clutch hub. I replaced the och and took out the lockup spool valve and unblocked the lockup solenoid. I put in a fourth gear pressure switch and wired in a relay and an adjustable delay box. ICM Controls ICM102, bout 18$ on eBay. It was simple and works wells. Lockup only happens in fourth and a couple seconds after the od shift. The trans governor and kick down cable are set to allow fourth gear only 45mph and up. No chance of lugging.
 
I'm using the B&M TCC controller on my '84 with a 200R4. Supply the power to the module from the brake switch, but I also have an inexpensive vacuum switch in series, so power shuts off when tromping on it, since I want the lock up to disengaged when vacuum drops. The BM module has a speed control to set the engagement speed, and comes with a speedometer inline sensor and short speedo cable that hooks to the transmission speedo output.
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works great, instantly adjustable as driving. I see they're not cheap anymore (purchased pre-Bidenomics) but works well.
 
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Dang, their controller went WAYYYY up. $310 now. Mine will require 2 separately bought items. The inline speedo cable speed sensor pulse generator and a MAP sensor. I am targeting using the stock MAP sensor for people who are ditching the ECM in favor of no computer. The stock one will work great for this. So that would just require the $55 Dakota Digital one. I am targeting this project to cost less than $100 in somewhat reasonable quantities (like 20 built at a time). So, realistically, this could eventually be had for less than $200.

We'll see over the next few months.
 

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