Texas82GP's Roadmaster

[Texas82GP]

Despite the malaise I've been feeling lately, I've managed to make a little progress on the Roadmaster. I replaced the passenger taillight assembly. I only recently noticed that it was broken near the inside lower corner. You can see the damage in the pic below. When I got the replacement assembly in the mail (nice used one from eBay), I was surprised to see it had pronounced stripes on it. I thought, "this must be for an earlier year". When I looked at the car, I was surprised to see that the driver's side had the pronounced stripes but they were nearly invisible on the passenger side. I'm surprised I hadn't noticed it before. At this point I'm wondering if the passenger assembly I took off is from a different car.

Here's a look at the rear of the car with the new (to me) passenger taillight assembly installed. Nice match.....

I also recently replaced the inside rear view mirror. The one that came with the car appeared to have some sort of tint applied to it. That tint combined with the dark tint on the rear window made it pretty difficult to see anything in the mirror at night.....

It turns out the auto-darkening feature of the mirror had just gone bad and that the dark stuff is some sort of liquid. Here's a pic shortly after I turned the mirror over....

I sourced a nice used mirror. I had to swap one of the map light bulbs from my old mirror over to it and then it was ready to go in. The moron that I bought the replacement mirror from did a poor job of packing it and subsequently the rear view mirror wire cover got broken in shipping. My car didn't have one when I got it. I asked him to send me another wire cover as I was aware he had more than one mirror. He sent me another, very well packed but it was broken too, which means he shipped me a broken one. SMH. I bought a somewhat universal wire cover on eBay but it ended up being too long. I was able to cut it down though and got it installed yesterday. it turned out good. I haven't used the mirror in the night-time yet so I'm not sure about the auto-darkening but with the dark tint, I don't think I really care. I'm sure it works though.....

The deck lid is up in the first pic above. I also worked on the passenger sunvisor yesterday. In the video for the eBay ad for the car, the seller was very careful to note that the cover for the passenger side vanity mirror in the sunvisor was broken...

Sometime ago, I sourced a pair of blue sunvisors from, I think, a Caprice. It turns out they were a darker blue so I decided to try to swap the good vanity mirror from the darker sunvisor to mine. I pretty much destroyed my vanity mirror, learning how to get it out. I wasn't happy about it, but it was broken already. I got the darker mirror out just fine though. These pics show you the color difference...

The difference in color of the vanity mirror cover itself is not that drastic. The replacement mirror went in nice...

And back in the car....

 

[Texas82GP]

Another project I've been working on is the driver's side switch plate on this car. It contains the mirror, seat and window switches. Most of these cars show quite a bit of wear here. Mine doesn't look that great though I've seen worse....

I bought a used switch assembly on eBay awhile back. I thought it looked pretty good but I was looking on my phone and I think I had had quite a few beers by then. It looks better than mine but it isn't as nice as I'd like it to be. Taking a page from 69hurstolds, I labored to find the part number for the bezel. It is sold separately from the switches. I was able to find the part number on gmpartsdirect.com and was even lucky enough to find a new old stock bezel on eBay! It was pretty reasonably priced too!

I pulled my switch pod yesterday while I was a the storage. This morning, I set up at the table in the formal dining room with the plan to pick the best switches between my plate and the used plate I bought, clean them and transfer them to the new old stock plate (plate and bezel are interchangeable for the purposes of this thread). My window and mirror switches were the best and they cleaned up beautifully. My project was going really nicely. Then I realized. This won't work. My NOS bezel doesn't have an accommodation for seat memory. Skunked again!

In the next pic, my plate is on the left, the used plate/switch assembly is in the middle and the NOS plate with my mirror and window switches is on the right. That's my seat switch on the far right.....

At this point I'd love to find a NOS plate that has the provision for the seat memory but I'm not having any luck coming up with a part number. I'd also be happy with a nice or NOS seat switch that doesn't have the memory feature. I'd put it in the NOS plat and gladly put it in my car. I don't really need that feature. I hate to take it away from the car but I don't really need it. I'm not having any luck finding that switch or a part number for it either. I decided what I really needed was a parts manual for this car. I looked around online and I'm not having any luck finding that either.

I found a decent looking non memory switch online but it's a bit pricey so I don't know what I'm going to do at the moment other than keep trying to find the part number.

 

[Streetbu]

Does the car still have the misfire/skip? How about the vibration you thought was from a tire?

 

[Texas82GP]

Does the car still have the misfire/skip? How about the vibration you thought was from a tire?

It still has both issues. I've moved the new tire to passenger rear but I still feel what I'm complaining about. I've been a little frustrated and I'm trying to avoid throwing parts at it.

 

[L92 OLDS]

Great progress. It always feels good fixing stuff like that. Those visor vanities were molded with a crappy plastic called CADON. I remember those well. The mirror looks like a Gentex mirror made in Zeeland Michigan.

 

[Texas82GP]

Small update. I was fortunate enough to figure out the part number on the non-memory seat control switch and found a NOS one. I put it in the new bezel and put that in the door for now. I hated to take the seat memory away from it but I don't use it and I can put it back easily if I can find a bezel that has an acceptable appearance. No luck so far on a part number for the bezel with seat memory and no luck so far on a parts manual for the 96 Roadmaster. I ran over to the storage to pick up the "wiring box", which is the box with all my wiring stuff (soldering gun, heat gun, heat shrink tubing, etc.). While I was there I popped in the new switch setup.

Before....

After....

Big improvement, visually. While I was there, I put the car on the battery charger, on 2 amp. It kicks off automatically when it gets to fully charged. I haven't started it in at least two weeks. Hell, the battery in the truck was a bit on the weak side today from not going anywhere. I've been working from home for a little more than a month.

I went ahead and ordered an AC Delco (GM OEM) EGR Valve and EGR Control Solenoid from Rock Auto yesterday. I broke down and I'm going to throw a few parts at it. Maybe next weekend I'll put them, the new control module and the new coil on it. I need to check the fuel pressure but the way the car pulls under wide open throttle, I don't think there is a fuel or spark issue. I think it is an engine management issue.

That's it for now friends. I hope everyone out there is doing well.

 

[Texas82GP]

I've managed to make a little more progress on the White Whale lately. On Memorial Day I went over to the storage and replaced all the rubber hoses that attach to the EVAP canister. It lives under the battery, ahead of the passenger front wheel well. You have to remove the wheel/tire, a part of the air dam and a filler panel. Here's a look at where it lives....

And here's a good look at the decrepit state of the original hoses....

Unfortunately, I didn't snap a pic of the completed project. I replaced all the hoses and most of the clamps. Many of the clamps broke when I squeezed them with the pliers. An old friend of mine from High School came out to visit/help. Between he and I, we went to six different auto parts stores before we were able to buy 3/8", 5/16", 1/4" fuel hose and 3/16" vacuum line. It was really ridiculous. I decided to tackle this project on the spur of the moment so I wasn't prepared like I normally am and really suffered the consequences. Now every hose on the EVAP system has been replaced.

Yesterday I went over to the storage to work on it. I started with replacing the coil and control module. I don't think it needed either but I replaced a GM module made in Singapore with a GM module made in the USA so I don't feel bad about that. The coil was made in Mexico. Both are Delco. Next I replaced the EGR control solenoid. I don't think there was anything wrong with it either. Then I replaced the EGR valve. It was a pretty new replacement but wasn't any good. I tested it with my handheld vacuum pump and it wouldn't hold vacuum. It also wouldn't properly seat when it was closed so exhaust was bleeding past it all the time. The engine runs noticeably better. I still had the stutter when the torque converter locks at relatively low speed (48-50 mph). My buddy, who works at the automatic transmission parts supply house across town rode in the car on Memorial day and recommended LubeGuard Instant Shudder Fix...

I'm generally not big on "Snake Oil" fixes but he advised me that there was no negative associated with putting it in the transmission. It's just a friction modifier. I put a tube in it and then moved the new wheel/tire from the left rear to the left front. I took it for about a 45 minute 40+ mile drive. The vibration at speed was still there but the stutter at lockup was noticeably better. I went ahead and put a second tube of Snake Oil in the transmission and moved the new wheel/tire from the left front to the right front and went for one more drive. No change on the vibration and little or no change to the torque converter shudder.

At this point I'm pretty happy with how the engine runs and I have to make an effort to feel the torque converter shudder so I'm crossing those issues off the list. The vibration is definitely speed related. I start to feel it above 50 mph and it's pretty pronounced at 70. It's fairly smooth at 80-82. I had the tire balance checked by Discount when I first got the car. I'm going to have the little shop over here by the office check them for grins but My guess is my problem is in the driveshaft or rear end. For the cost, I plan to pull the driveshaft and have new u-joints installed and have the shaft balanced. While the car is on stands I intend to pull it in gear and watch the rear wheels and make sure I don't see wobble (bent axle).

I bought a complete exhaust system for it a few weeks back. I bought stainless converters (bolt in) from Catco. I also bought a stainless cat-back system from Borla. I hope it isn't too loud. My research says it isn't. It has mufflers and resonators like the OE system. It also has an H-pipe connection in the extension pipes. I bought the converters from Catco since they are made in the USA and they were well spoken of on the ImpalaSS forum. Unfortunately, they didn't add any packing material to either box. The Passenger converter made it fine but the driver was in a box much too large and suffered some damage....

I reached out to them through eBay (where I bought them) but they played dead. I could return it but I'd have to ship it back on my dime. I decided I would just fix it myself. I hammered them with negative feedback. If anyone as some suggestions on how best to fix this, let me know. I'll figure something out.

Next weekend I intend to replace the exhaust system and I have four new oxygen sensors to go with it. The week after I plan to have the driveshaft rebuilt and I plan to have the tire balance checked again. We'll see where it is then. I'm planning to drive it to Orange Beach Alabama in mid July for family vacation so I want to get it where it goes down the road smooth.

That's it for now friends. Hopefully the next update will be with the new exhaust system installed. Thanks for the interest and comments.

 

[CaliWagon83]

This thing looks pretty immaculate for its age & mileage. Seems like the fixes you're doing would be typical for any car that age. Looks like the perfect road trip car!

 

[Texas82GP]

So we've been working on the Roadmaster the past three weekends and the effort has paid off. Sean and Dad came over to the storage Saturday 6/6 to help me. What was mostly on mind was replacing the exhaust system. I had Sean and Dad cut off the old system with a Sawzall while I worked in the front to unhook the Oxygen sensors and break the converters loose from the manifolds. Trouble started when four of the six studs backed out of the manifolds instead of the nut coming off. Don't get me wrong, I'm happy they didn't snap off. Sean and Dad started hanging the back half of the system. I realized the Borla cat-back system came with cheese-ball saddle clamps that I didn't want to use. Dad had two band clamps on the bench that he donated but that only got us to the connection from the tailpipe to the muffler. I couldn't find band stainless steel band clamps anywhere locally so we didn't get very far with assembling the new system. I did replace the rear brake hose while the exhaust was out. Man, they didn't leave much room to work with between the crossmember and the body. I did some swearing on that one but got it done.

The next week I put a lot of effort into hardware. That Monday night I tried to get the nuts off the studs that backed out. I only got one to cleanly come apart so I put it in the passenger manifold and hung that converter. I went home and with about an hour of work I found the GM part number for the stud. Tuesday I went to the local Chevrolet dealership but they said 2-5 weeks on the studs. When I got to the office I bought them on eBay and lucked out and had them on Friday. I also spent about an hour in an Ace Hardware selecting metric flange bolts, serrated flange nuts and flat washers to tie the converters and the cat-back system together. Since the aftermarket replacement converters are a little different than stock, none of the stock hardware would work. I also ordered band clamps from Summit.

That Saturday, Dad came over to the storage and he and I got the system installed. We had a few minor tweaks to do but it was in and we fired it up. It was a good day. I'll post pictures below. Sunday (6/14) I went over to the storage to rebuild the rear brakes, since I had all the parts and the rears needed bleeding anyway, since I replaced the rear brake hose. I got the driver's side torn down and cleaned up and Sean showed up to help. I'm glad he did. The extra set of hands and extra horsepower on the springs was helpful. I got over there at like 10 and by 2 we had both sides done....

Sean had plans with his wife so he split. I stayed and cleaned up the shop and cleaned and painted the new drums. Monday night, I went back and slipped on the drums...

Then I installed the wheels and hardware....

Then I adjusted the shoes on both sides and adjusted the parking brake. The week before, I took all five wheels and tires to a Discount Tire near my office and had them re-balanced. More on that later. I also scrubbed all five wheels and tires inside and out. I also cleaned the hubcap mounting "hats". I may have already mentioned it but I have all new lug nuts on the car as well. When I got the car the lug nuts were pretty beat up and didn't come off or go on smoothly. That's all taken care of.

Tuesday night (6/16) I went back to the storage and buttoned up the wiring for the four new oxygen sensors. I had them hooked up but hadn't clipped them in their holders yet in case I had to take the system apart again. The front sensor on the Driver's side also requires some heat insulating tape on the connector, so there's a little bit of detail involved in this. Then I did a little grinding to the mounting tab of the exhaust "dampener". This is strange object that hangs off the passenger side converter flange. The cylinder on it is full of sand or shot of some kind. It just needed a little clearancing to clear my new hardware....

Wednesday night I replaced the serrated flange nuts on the clamps from the extension pipes to the mufflers. Dad and I chewed the originals up a bit with a 12 point socket (all I had in a deep 14mm at the storage). You have to get really tight with that stuff when you are "forming" the clamp and "forming" the pipe connection. I also turned the clamps from the mufflers to the tailpipes. That required taking the clamp apart to turn it around. It was a pain but well worth it. I'm happier with how they are pointed and they helped "form" the pipe connection better and solved a really small exhaust like I had on one side. Finally, I broke the gas tank heat shield loose, moved it forward, away from the passenger side tail pipe and then tightened it back down, which solved a clearance problem I had. It was a good night. Here are some pics of the completed system....

This past Saturday, Sean came back to the storage with me and helped me bleed the rear brakes. Then I sent him to O'Reilly for a differential cover gasket and gear oil. He changed the oil in the rear axle while I replaced the manual shift seal on the 4L60E again. Sean found a bit more metal on the magnet on the differential cover than I would have liked. There were even a few small chunks. I couldn't see anything obviously wrong except that I think there is more backlash than there should be. My guess is a pinion bearing is on the way out. It's not making noise and not leaking so for now, I'm taking Dad's approach and I'm going to ignore it and hope it goes away. The manual shift seal replacement was easier this time as I had a better idea of how to do it, technique wise. I was really careful this time and instead of using the installation tool that came with the remover, I used a deep set socket. I think the installation tool tore the rubber on the first seal without me realizing it.

We were done by about 12:30 Saturday afternoon and we dropped the car down of the stands, torqued the wheels and took it for a test drive. It finally runs and drives how I want it to friends. The vibration is gone. Obviously the kids at the Discount by my house let me down in November on the wheel balancing. The exhaust system has freed up some power. I do think the converters were a bit plugged. The exhaust is louder than stock, to be sure, but is not lout. It's pretty mellow. The stutter when the torque converter locks up is gone. The friction modifier really did the trick. Between replacing the EGR valve and doing the exhaust system/oxygen sensors, the engine runs very, very smooth. There is no sign of misfire under any circumstances.

Sunday morning I scrubbed the hubcaps inside and out and installed them. I chamied off the car and took some pictures.....

I drove her to work today and plan to do so all week. I think she's ready for the run to Orange Beach Alabama. I'm really happy to have the car to this point. That's it for now friends.

 

[fleming442]

That thing is one sweet road sofa. Color me jealous!