BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

[motorheadmike]

I did not. Pretty tough to do to sheetmetal without warping it for one, plus my coworker and I were trying to get it done quickly as we were technically on the clock at the time. He heated it with the torch while I formed the shape, but once it was done we left it to cool naturally while it was still clamped in position.

Trust me, with how difficult it was to hand form without a slip roll, I very much wished it was more malleable. It fought the process every step of the way. We just simply didn’t have the time or resources to anneal it.

The car is not channelled, although it was something I did consider at one time. I’ve chosen not to because I already have more than enough work to do with all the mods I still have planned, plus the car is pretty dang low as it is when it’s aired down. It’s an effort vs reward thing, and I couldn’t make the ends justify the means by channeling it.

Instead, to help get it looking a little lower, I’m considering trimming a bit (maybe a 1/2”) off of all the polyurethane body mounts. They don’t necessarily need to be as tall as they are. This will also help to hide the exposed portion of the frame underneath the rocker panels, something that’s always bugged me about these cars.

View attachment 188306

I am just wondering why the transmission is sitting so high in the tunnel? People have been putting T56s in these cars for years and this is the most invasive example I have ever seen.

Tolerances stack up fast when everything is custom.

 

[Streetbu]

I am just wondering why the transmission is sitting so high in the tunnel? People have been putting T56s in these cars for years and this is the most invasive example I have ever seen.

Tolerances stack up fast when everything is custom.

Didn't he drop the body down over the frame?

Great work Donovan!

 

[motorheadmike]

Didn't he drop the body down over the frame?

Great work Donovan!

Nope. We just covered that, the car isn't channelled. Yet. 😉

 

[Rktpwrd]

I am just wondering why the transmission is sitting so high in the tunnel? People have been putting T56s in these cars for years and this is the most invasive example I have ever seen.

Two reasons mainly, first because T56 behind big block Olds 455, and not an LS or SBC as is usually the case. I’m using the shortest motor mounts available too, but I’m guessing the BBO has a higher crankshaft centerline than the usual candidates to begin with.

Secondly, because I actually put some thought and effort into finding the best possible transmission, differential, and driveshaft heights and angles rather than just stuff it in and hope for the best. I encourage you to go back in the thread to post #83 here…

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/the-juggernaut.55095/page-9

…to re-familiarize yourself with what was done and why. I spent A LOT of time measuring, calculating and crunching numbers to find the best combination of all three at ride height. Throw in the fact that ride height (and therefore driveshaft and differential angles) can vary significantly with air ride, and it became critical I get it right. I’m 100% confident I did, so this is now about making the body work around the chassis and driveline.

 

[clean8485]

Glad to see you back on this project Donovan. I can't form metal to save myself, but I really enjoy watching you do your work. Keep it up.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Glad to see you back on this project Donovan. I can't form metal to save myself, but I really enjoy watching you do your work. Keep it up.

Thanks Jeff. I’m really happy to be back on my baby again too. I don’t profess to be any sort of expert on shaping metal either, in fact I probably only know just enough to be dangerous. But I do enjoy the process and trying to get a little better at it every time.

Might as well do a quick little update while I’m here, the time consuming tedious process of aligning and tacking the new transmission tunnel in is done.

Now the process of filling in the gaps and grinding everything flush has begun. Starting to slowly eat this elephant that is welding in the tunnel one bite at a time.

 

[scoti]

Looking good!

So... On the shifter hole/opening, have you given any though to making a larger 'base' that the seal/boot can attach to that can be unbolted? Something that would allow an increase in access area for any service needs? Or is the shifter hole as-is all that's needed? I've never had to service an internal rail trans only old Muncies & T10's but increased access was not a bad idea on them.

 

[motorheadmike]

Two reasons mainly, first because T56 behind big block Olds 455, and not an LS or SBC as is usually the case. I’m using the shortest motor mounts available too, but I’m guessing the BBO has a higher crankshaft centerline than the usual candidates to begin with.

Secondly, because I actually put some thought and effort into finding the best possible transmission, differential, and driveshaft heights and angles rather than just stuff it in and hope for the best. I encourage you to go back in the thread to post #83 here…

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/the-juggernaut.55095/page-9

…to re-familiarize yourself with what was done and why. I spent A LOT of time measuring, calculating and crunching numbers to find the best combination of all three at ride height. Throw in the fact that ride height (and therefore driveshaft and differential angles) can vary significantly with air ride, and it became critical I get it right. I’m 100% confident I did, so this is now about making the body work around the chassis and driveline.

😉

 

[Rktpwrd]

Looking good!

So... On the shifter hole/opening, have you given any though to making a larger 'base' that the seal/boot can attach to that can be unbolted? Something that would allow an increase in access area for any service needs? Or is the shifter hole as-is all that's needed? I've never had to service an internal rail trans only old Muncies & T10's but increased access was not a bad idea on them.

Thank you.
From post #1014 on the previous page (and last update), I had addressed that:

I’ll probably go back once it’s fully welded in and cut the opening around the shifter a little larger so I can remove the shifter without dropping the transmission. This’ll simplify servicing and buy me a little more room around the shifter base.

I won’t necessarily make it a separate removable piece, just make the hole large enough to remove the shifter. I’ll make the boot that sits on the trans tunnel removable by using nutserts instead of rivets to hold it on. Remove the bolts, remove the boot, and I’ll have full access to the shifter and it’s bolts.

I just need to verify the boot will be big enough to cover the proposed larger hole first.

 

[Northernregal]

Thank you.
From post #1014 on the previous page (and last update), I had addressed that:



I won’t necessarily make it a separate removable piece, just make the hole large enough to remove the shifter. I’ll make the boot that sits on the trans tunnel removable by using nutserts instead of rivets to hold it on. Remove the bolts, remove the boot, and I’ll have full access to the shifter and it’s bolts.

I just need to verify the boot will be big enough to cover the proposed larger hole first.

We need to start a pool and bet on how you are going to do some of this stuff. I totally would have got nutserts on this one.