BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

Take care of your hand brother. From someone that knows what it's like having use of only one hand. It's tough to say the least 😕
 
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On the injured list with a bum hand after an injury at work today, so I figure I’ll do an update rather than push my luck out in The Skunkworks tonight.

I’ve been spending quite a bit of time out in the shop lately, but haven’t gotten a lot of actual work done yet. It’s been a lot of thinking, measuring, cycling the rear suspension and trying a few different things mostly to determine what’s going on in the back.

I put the car up in the air on stands to install the mock-up driveshaft for determining driveshaft clearance when it’s aired down, and of course one thing led to another to another, to another.

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Basically I found that with the back aired completely down, none of the suspension components were resting on the bumpstops. Puzzled by this, I started looking hard at what was holding it up.

Shocks weren’t fully compressed, upper A arms weren’t hitting the trunk floor, lower arms weren’t contacting the frame. So wth was preventing the diff from going higher? Long story short, I found that it was the collapsed height of the rear air bags themselves. They physically can’t get any shorter due to the internal construction of them.

“Hmmm, ok. So that must mean it can get lower if I remove the ‘bags right?” I mean afterall, Shockwaves are available for G bodies for the rear suspension if there’s any real gains to be had here. Expensive, but possibly worth it depending on what I find.
Well, it’s not worth it.

After removing the ‘bags and jacking the diff up as high as it would go and then setting it down on stands under the axle, I only gained maybe 1/2”, if that. So no, spending $1150 USD on rear Shockwaves to gain 1/2” lower is most certainly not worth it IMO. Good news is, now the axle sits on my cut-down bumpstops. So what I’ll do now is pick up another set of bumpstops and cut them down a 1/2” less so that the axle rests on them instead of the ‘bags. The rear wheels sit up in the quarters about 3” as seen in this pic with the outline traced on the quarter, that’s enough to tuck almost all of the tire when viewed from the side.

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I still have lots of room inside the wheelwells height-wise to go lower, about 3” with my current wheel and tire combo, but far more things are going to start hitting other things long before that becomes an issue. No, we’re going to start getting into diminishing returns for the amount of work and cost required to get much lower. I’m only looking for a cool stance when it’s aired down, not a “laying rocker panels on the ground” lowrider.

Performance on the road is far more important to me.

I had a real good look around at everything underneath the car, and I think I’m still going to go with my initial plan to remove 1/2 - 1” off of the body mounts. The area that’ll be the closest is the rear upper control arms to the underside of the trunk floor. I believe I’ve got clearance to everything else to afford up to that 1”.

So yeah, that’s the rabbit hole I quickly went down investigating driveshaft clearance. Speaking of which, I am going to have tons of clearance at my rear firewall keeping the stock portion of it from the floor brace back. Even with as large as a hypothetical 4” diameter shaft. (Which I won’t need, looks like 3 1/2” will be more than adequate according to driveshaft critical speed calculators).

Mike was able to get the sheetmetal material I gave him run through the slip roll he has at his work, and it turned out beautifully.

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I’m going to have WAY more room for a larger ‘shaft with this one vs the original.

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On the transmission tunnel side of things, once I got the car up in the air and was able to have a good look underneath, I was rewarded with nothing but good news. Absolutely everything clears, the tightest spot is between one of the shifter boot screws and the reverse lockout solenoid. Easily fixed by shortening the screws which stick out about 1/2”.
The new trans tunnel was more than well worth the effort.

I got some of the metal finishing done on the top and passenger side, it’s looking pretty good but I won’t be completely satisfied until I can hammer and dolly it out a bit.

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As mentioned, the shifter boot is now attached, did it with nutserts and #10 x 32 stainless screws.

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As for the transition between the transmission and driveshaft tunnels, I think I’m going to keep the height here where it is. The top of my driveshaft safety loop is going to be too close to the top of the larger driveshaft when it’s aired down, so I’ll keep the height of the trans tunnel where it is and make the top half of the loop taller.

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Hell, I might even have to make the entire loop a bit bigger, but I’ll worry about that when the time comes.

On the interior, I’m going to hold off on spraying epoxy on the inside of the floorpans until the body comes off the frame again. I know I’ll probably find the occasional weld pinhole or area that needs repair, and I don’t want to burn the epoxy on the inside if I have to do any welding.

That’s about all I have to report on for now, not much work is likely to happen in the next 2 days, but I’m planning to log in some serious hours on it in the week between Christmas and New Years that I have off.
Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year.

D.
Tunnel looks beautiful Donovan. I hope your hand heals up quickly Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
 
Firestone has list of every airbag they make with dimensions and fastener diagrams. You can cross reference to Hendricks or whatever other brand you need to find to buy them. Might be worth a look as it sounds like those might have internal stops in the bag.

I found a peterbilt air ride cab bag this way.
 
Well, my plans to go hard on the car this week between Christmas and New Year’s got shot all to shjt. You see, I work for a 24 hour service company, and I was unlucky enough to draw the short straw for on call over the break. Despite us being technically closed.
I’ve been averaging around 3-4 calls a day, which is unusual given that many businesses are closed over the holidays.

What this all translates into is that it’s been incredibly difficult to get in any real time on the car. Pretty hard to run the compressor and do a bunch of banging and grinding when you need to be able to hear the phone ring, not to mention leaving everything at the drop of a hat to go do a call in -30 degree temperatures and drive shjt roads.

But despite all this adversity, I’ve still managed to keep driving forward on the driveshaft tunnel. There’s not really much for me to add in text here, so I’ll just let the progression of pictures do most of the talking.

I started by sanding the mill scale off the new tunnel, then shortened it up a little and widened the opening in the floor for its initial test fit.

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Next I scribed the sides of the floor onto the sides of the tunnel, and Mike and I made the bends around a piece of 3/4” sched 40 pipe and started tacking it in place.

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I got the transmission tunnel fully welded to the driveshaft tunnel and Mike got the sides tack welded to the floor. It was really starting to look like something now.

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The back of the tunnel had to transition into the factory shape, and this is where it gave me some real grief. I couldn’t make the metal move and conform to the shape I needed at the back, so after a couple of failed attempts, I cut the whole back section off where the side flanges ended, and built a whole new separate section.

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I started by matching up the shape at the back first, then just continued around the edges moving it where it needed to be, tacking it roughly every 1/2”. Thankfully this worked out.

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Tonight I burned the midnight oil pretty good, neighbors be damned and not much likelihood of getting a call this late. Back seams are fully welded out and ground down, next will be the seam to the main part of the tunnel itself.

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The tack welds to the floor are temporary and are going to stay as-is for the time being, I’m not happy with how we did the rear floors so that’ll get addressed when I re-do them once the driveshaft tunnel is done.

And as for clearance inside the tunnel now? Plenty of room for larger driveshaft activities now! Overall I’m pretty pleased with how this is all coming along, and with the rate of progress.

I’ll post up again once the DS tunnel is completely finished. Thanks for the interest and for following along gents. Till next time.

D.
 
Looks really nice to me, Donovan, nice work! Are you planning on an OEM type carpet for the interior or are you going spartan race car type set up? Just curious.

Thanks Mike.
What I’m envisioning for the interior of the car is luxurious meets high tech. Black leather wrapped on the door and interior panels as well as the rear firewall. Carbon fibre and brushed aluminum accents, ergonomic and contoured dash and console, with nice plush carpet and copious amounts of DynaMat or similar sound deadening.
All business on the outside and the mechanicals, yet feel like stepping into a new Mercedes on the inside. I don’t know if I’ll be able to pull it off, but that’s what I’m going to attempt to achieve.
 

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