BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”


Did a little digging, and found they also make a 1” version.


This seems a little more reasonable size for my needs.

I believe 55809 is the only P/N for a Hellwig chassis mounted bar.


It's actual size isn't listed.

 
I believe 55809 is the only P/N for a Hellwig chassis mounted bar.


It's actual size isn't listed.


Summit lists it on their site:


Only thing I can’t find out yet is if it’ll fit my 3” axle tubes. I know it’s only a set of U-bolts and saddles, but for the price it should at least come with the right size included.
 
Summit lists it on their site:


Only thing I can’t find out yet is if it’ll fit my 3” axle tubes. I know it’s only a set of U-bolts and saddles, but for the price it should at least come with the right size included.

I have one on my Strange S60, so you should be fine.
 
For what it's worth a local guy with a pretty intense monte that autocrosses and had the entire $3500+ ridetech kit said the rear bar was too stiff and would pick up the inner rear tire on corners. Car was faster with the rear bar disconnected.

Same story with another guy that had some other kit, in a tight autocross the car was faster with the rear bar disconnected. It allows weight transfer and keeps all the tires on the ground.

That being said a stock G without a rear bar boats and rolls like you won't believe. You can probably fix that with stiff springs, lower ride height and a big front bar and get away without a rear bar.

I have the dirt cheap setup on my 2+2 and it's beyond my driving capabilities. I need to go to driving school to use it effectively. It handles flat but has some roll but still comfy on the street. It's really set up more for drag and comfort.

5660 front strings, 5409 rears
34mm f body front sway bar, blazer rear bar
Viking adjustable rear shocks, comp eng 90/10 drag shocks front
245 front 275 rear summer(ish) 240 tredwear
Tall lower ball joints and tall uppers in adjustable upper arms with some added caster
Poly bushings in boxes stock lower rears and dirt arms on the top rear with roto joints

That's it.

I'm skill limited #1 and sticky tire limited #2.

Honestly anything to get the rear to not bind is going to help you out and unless you get serious time behind the wheel and learn what the car wants it's going to surpass your abilities.

Just my opinion. Don't overthink the bar, just buy one that gets it off the lower control arm and move on with your life 😛

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And to further complicate things and to directly contradict your statement of 'I don't want a blazer bar' I present you, a blazer bar, lol.

This one is new and nice and 1/8 larger than the stock blazer bar.

The benefit of the blazer bar is that it's bent in a way that allows you to put it up and forward of the rear end so it doesn't effect ground clearance at all.

This one is courtesy of Bruce (hopefully he didn't see this and smite me lol) on his A body 442. The blazer style is the only one that allows you to run it this way. I think he has a stock 1" and I do too but the belltech can mount there too. It's a $20 part vs $300 for the beltec but same thing essentially.

Cons, it's not bolt in (but none really are) guaranteed, it's hard to run exhaust over (but you are side exit), and it's not the cheapest but it's not terrible. It's also not adjustable.
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Bone to pick with this statement, they are the same thing, both are preventing the anti-roll of the body. I've never been impressed with the horrible sway bars that GM put on the G Bodies, I'm sure it was a compromise, don't get me wrong, it's still better than no sway bar.

So I looked at the suggested cheaper Hellwig bar, interesting that it's 1 5/16" as I was looking at the Spohn Suspension Pro Series Drag Bar and it's the same size. Any guesses as to hoe the length of the sway bar arms plays into the torsional rigidity of these?
Okay, damn semantics anyway.

ARB, in Jim's world, is borderline not driveable on the street with both links hooked up.
The idea is that the bar twists little to zero when hooked up. NOT friendly on the street. More of straight line race setup.

Sway Bar in Jim's world, is like the factory, F41 or UMI bar. It's purpose is to stop body roll when driving into corners for handling purposes.

According to Mac at SSM, the CPP bar is cross between the two. I'm hoping that he's correct and it changes my G-body shuffle into more of a G-body really mild lean lol.


I think this is what happens when I drink too much Miller Lite - I start acting like Bob Uecker.
 
Always nice to get some new toys and tools delivered on a Friday. About half of the new goodies I’ve ordered are here now, today’s haul was better than Christmas.

Yesterday I got my new shop barstools from Summit Racing…

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…and today the adjustable drop center link from Howe Racing Enterprises showed up.

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This is an extremely nice piece, I’m very impressed with the quality and components and engineering that went into it:

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Note the gusset that’s also been added for additional racing stresses.

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While we were having dinner, the Amazon fairy magically appeared and left these two stainless locking collars by the door:

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These are for the ProTouring rear sway bar that should be arriving tomorrow. I initially tried to purchase the ones melloelky linked to from McMaster Carr, but the bastards canceled my order on me after they realized I wasn’t a business and was in Canada. Well screw them, Amazon to the rescue. The sway bar kit I decided to go with didn’t include these collars, so I just got my own.

This next one didn’t come in the mail, I swung by KMS Tools during my travels today. New high quality pneumatic DA sander from Dynabrade.

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My old one is at least 30 years old and the air motor and bearings are failing on it. This one is Dynabrade’s premier model and the reviews on it are outstanding. Plus, it’s…

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If it lasts me another 30 years, I’ll be more than happy.

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Tomorrow should be the big package, the new rear sway bar kit. Then all I’m waiting for after that is the ProForged 1/2” taller ball joints.

Man I love deliveries!!
 

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