Ha. Thanks, Mike, I intend to!Well done! It takes a man with large balls to endeavour into racing (other than Drag) with a G-body *adjusts his underwear* - keep at it, and keep refining the car.
Ha. Thanks, Mike, I intend to!Well done! It takes a man with large balls to endeavour into racing (other than Drag) with a G-body *adjusts his underwear* - keep at it, and keep refining the car.
Nice job and I like your courage. To deal with the front tire rub I removed the stops on the lower control arms, drilled a hole and used 7/16" bolt and a few nuts to make adjustable stops. As far as having to run negative camber that is what you want anyway, I run 1° negative on my GP. For the leaking transmission fluid you can add a cooler to system and you might want to check to see if the power steering fluid is getting too hot. We added a small rad to the power steering lines. If loose steering fluid that has a good chance of ending up on your left front wheel. The power steering pump isn't made to run at high rpm's for a long time.
Means a lot coming from you, Steve. I appreciate the tips and advice over the years. Speaking of which, I may try that adjustable stop method. I need to pick up some 7/16 bolts anyway for my sway bar. (The frame seems to be holding water on the passenger side sway bar bolts. They need replaced and I guess I need to drill a drain hole..) As far as the trans, I do have a trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator. As for the power steering pump, for good measure I flushed it all out with new fluid a couple days ago when I put new lines on. Hopefully that helps a tad. So for a cooler, would I just "tie-it-in" to the return line and keep the high pressure line intact? And unfortunately I learned all about power steering fluid getting on the left-front back when I first ran this engine, so I hear ya loud and clear there.
Your car sounds wicked man. what are the specs for your 350, cam, compression, etc? And if you could, record an exhaust clip. I want to hear what it sounds like and I'm sure others do too.
Are you allowed to run Hoosier tires at the track?. If you can and your budget allows you can get Aero rims that comes in my different BS and the the Hoosier tires will give you better lap times. Another thing you might want to try is install a rear stabilizer that does not mount to the lower control arms. I use a GTA rear bar which I moved in the arms about 1.5" each side and the stock mounting hardware to mount it to an existing hole in the crossmember and a u-bolt with the stock hardware to mount it on the axle tube.
If it still sounds warbled, trying adding headers. The order in which each puff of exhaust exits the exhaust has a large influence on the overall exhaust note. This is part of the reason why engines with different firing orders have their own distinct sounds. (Ford vs Chevy, etc) Another great example of this is when people use "180 degree" headers. These headers have at least one primary header tube from each side crossover and connect to the neighboring header. This simulates having a flat-plane crank shaft, and gives old American V8s that classic European "buzz" similar to a Ferrari.I'm hoping with the compression bump and that cam it'll sound less warbled.
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