The Wifes Bracket Car

[David.C]

[/quote]My friends have proven Hughes wrong a few times. They're notorious for going on the conservative side, especially when the cam is a little small like what you have.
Most of them have moved on to ATI, Coan, or PTC.
210cc heads, single plane intake; They missed it.

A drag race application shouldn't sound like it comes alive when it's 500 ft out from the line. It should launch at peak torque or slightly higher and stay at full song all the way down.[/quote]


I understand what you're saying and agree with you, but there is more to the story you should know. There is lots of room for improvement in the car and there is a learning curve for the wife and the car

1. My wife had never driven a race car before (5x total now)
2. She just learned how to do a burn out & launch this year
3. Foot brake only car, no Transbrake or LL
4. The car starts to push at about 24-2500 RPM she's still learning how to hold the car (can be seen in the vid)

 

[thrasher]

3. Foot brake only car, no Transbrake or LL

The ignition lock out will help that and reduce the 60ft times.

4. The car starts to push at about 24-2500 RPM she's still learning how to hold the car (can be seen in the vid)

The correct converter will help that. You (ok- a lot of people) don't want to be that close to peak stall speed waiting for the tree to count down.
Generally when the converter is "built right" the quickest et will come from holding the engine at a lower rpm and then stomping on the gas. (Also called flashing the converter)
The added benifit to stomping on the gas at a lower rpm means you don't have to put as much effort into trying to keep the car from creeping in the beams.

I do understand where you're coming from. I've been around my share of drag racing noobs of both sexes.
Have fun man

 

[Chris Van]

I have to agree about the launch rpm. Atleast my car anyway, works best when you stall it just above idle and then stab the gas. When footbraking anyway. Which I'm pretty sure I've forgotten how to do. I haven't footbraked in probably 15 years now.....LOL

 

[David.C]

It seems I’m not very good at keeping up with this thread (I have 2 others as well). There have been lots of changes since I last posted, and more coming. Big changes included intake and carb, we are now running a Super Victor and Ultra Dominator, TRZ anti-roll bar, full 12pt cage (mild steel), fiberglass doors and Lexan everywhere. The car is currently at the body shop for paint. It took her forever to pick a color, I thought the body shop was gonna quit, lol. She finally decided on a med dark blue with Zyrillic pearl, that shifts to a violet as you move around the car (see pic, looks awesome in the sun). White ralley stripes hood and tailgate.


We should get the car home in the next week or two, and then the fun starts for me. Re-install / install all the lexan, new line lock and T brake. If there is some money left in the budget it may see a 100 shot or new converter this year too. The car was running a 7.6 1/8th. Which I thought was completely respectable for a heavy, normally aspirated, foot brake car.


Last years slips

Cage install

Cage finished Lexan rear window

Vid of one of her last passes last year (with steel doors and glass)




New carb & intake

 

[David.C]

New rockers

Doors

Inside door handle relocated to top of door since this pic (reach thru window to open)

TRZ anti-roll bar

Not her car but you get the idea for paint

 

[David.C]

New Wheels

 

[theoldsone]

Nice, keep the thread alive. This build is interesting. So how does the car look as of now?

 

[David.C]

Nice, keep the thread alive. This build is interesting. So how does the car look as of now?

Thanks, currently the body work is at a 95% solution and the car is in primer. Recent weather in Texas has really slowed the process but the body shop is moving forward again.

 

[David.C]

I have a very happy wife right now!!!

 

[David.C]

Here ya go folks!!! Big thumbs up to Ken and Mike at Wreck-A-Mend Paint and Body in Belton, Tx.

Vid