theoldsone daily build
- Thread starter theoldsone
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Just ordered the driver seat cant wait! The bummer is it takes about 2 weeks to arrive. By then Ill have ordered the passenger side, so they should arrive at the same time. Passenger seat takes 3 days max
Update on the "build" :wink:
I just got my seat brackets they seem pretty strong! They'd better be I paid $80ea. Ill be test fitting them to the floor tomorrow hopefully
On the other hand I have a great idea into making a light up guage setup using multicolor LED strips. While keeping the stock bulbs. (Stock bulbs don't do jack anyways). Hey my next step up would be buying a new guage cluster set. Which I dont realy need or have time for.
Maybe tomorow I can get some real progress. Or I may just be making more work for myself...stay tuned 😀
I just got my seat brackets they seem pretty strong! They'd better be I paid $80ea. Ill be test fitting them to the floor tomorrow hopefully
On the other hand I have a great idea into making a light up guage setup using multicolor LED strips. While keeping the stock bulbs. (Stock bulbs don't do jack anyways). Hey my next step up would be buying a new guage cluster set. Which I dont realy need or have time for.
Maybe tomorow I can get some real progress. Or I may just be making more work for myself...stay tuned 😀
Amazed at to how much work I got done today even if it was 28° outside. Great progress im happy with everything. Pics coming soon!
What got done today...
I decided it was about l time I put this car on four wheels so in order to do that I had to get the shifter cable working just right. It was a pain at first because the braket to the cable and trans was from a th350/200r4 so I had to modify a pefectly good braket with a hammer and chisel because I didnt realize my drill and saw where in my trunk! :x the two rear pan bolts didnt line up with the holes.
I am much more capable of better work than this... but I used what I had. 😀
After that I had to swap out another bracket/link. This one connected the cable to the trans shift linkage. Since my car was originally column shift I had to change these over.
The one on the left is thew one.
Then for a good hour I spent wrestling the cable to do what I wanted it to do! It would get cought up or the shifter was too far back. But I got the detents and cable synced together and it shifts like it should. I then brought the car back down and touch down!
I tried out how it worked and moved it back and forth. Hmmmm seems nice. Then I hit the streets
Felt alot more umphy at first then thud first gear whoa that was real short? Speedos reading 30 im doing like 15 lol...(gass pedal) rpms climb up and im still in second doing 35-40. Speedo at this point was a no brainer. But I realized at a coast the diff likes to whine. Not so much accel. I drove it around the block only, I promise. Im going to have to tinker with the rear for abit maybe to see if its normalish(it is a summit ring and pinion) or was my coast side too off. But none the less very happy with the results.
I decided it was about l time I put this car on four wheels so in order to do that I had to get the shifter cable working just right. It was a pain at first because the braket to the cable and trans was from a th350/200r4 so I had to modify a pefectly good braket with a hammer and chisel because I didnt realize my drill and saw where in my trunk! :x the two rear pan bolts didnt line up with the holes.
I am much more capable of better work than this... but I used what I had. 😀
After that I had to swap out another bracket/link. This one connected the cable to the trans shift linkage. Since my car was originally column shift I had to change these over.
The one on the left is thew one.
Then for a good hour I spent wrestling the cable to do what I wanted it to do! It would get cought up or the shifter was too far back. But I got the detents and cable synced together and it shifts like it should. I then brought the car back down and touch down!
I tried out how it worked and moved it back and forth. Hmmmm seems nice. Then I hit the streets
Felt alot more umphy at first then thud first gear whoa that was real short? Speedos reading 30 im doing like 15 lol...(gass pedal) rpms climb up and im still in second doing 35-40. Speedo at this point was a no brainer. But I realized at a coast the diff likes to whine. Not so much accel. I drove it around the block only, I promise. Im going to have to tinker with the rear for abit maybe to see if its normalish(it is a summit ring and pinion) or was my coast side too off. But none the less very happy with the results.
Continuing:
New brake pedal pad
Now onto the LED HUD idea I had.
This is the kit that I bought at autozone for $25. I thought it was a bit pricey but I knew what a great tool this could be.
1. Took off the cover plate that goes over the guages this is where the LED strips will go.
2. Notch the cover plate on the left lower corner thats where the wire will go through.
3.Also notch the plastic cover that shields the guages at the exact same area where you did it to the steel cover. This is best done with a heated flat head screw driver. It easily cuts through the plastic making it soft and leaves a cleaner cut than a saw or wheel. Best method to heat the flat head is with a torch 🙂 (sorry no pic)
4. Take the lead wire and wiggle it from the bottom of the dash to the top right along the hole where the head light switch is at. Lay it there.
5. Take your steel cover panel and apply the LED lights along the bottom. 8in is all I needed. Plug in the lead wire to the LED light strips.
6.Make sure its pluged In real well (you dont want to remove the dash parts just to plug it back in...)
7. Assemble the Covers and exaclty how its supposed to go. Plug in the switch which came with the kit and you now have a rock'n LED Heads Up Display.
New brake pedal pad
Now onto the LED HUD idea I had.
This is the kit that I bought at autozone for $25. I thought it was a bit pricey but I knew what a great tool this could be.
1. Took off the cover plate that goes over the guages this is where the LED strips will go.
2. Notch the cover plate on the left lower corner thats where the wire will go through.
3.Also notch the plastic cover that shields the guages at the exact same area where you did it to the steel cover. This is best done with a heated flat head screw driver. It easily cuts through the plastic making it soft and leaves a cleaner cut than a saw or wheel. Best method to heat the flat head is with a torch 🙂 (sorry no pic)
4. Take the lead wire and wiggle it from the bottom of the dash to the top right along the hole where the head light switch is at. Lay it there.
5. Take your steel cover panel and apply the LED lights along the bottom. 8in is all I needed. Plug in the lead wire to the LED light strips.
6.Make sure its pluged In real well (you dont want to remove the dash parts just to plug it back in...)
7. Assemble the Covers and exaclty how its supposed to go. Plug in the switch which came with the kit and you now have a rock'n LED Heads Up Display.
Ive been working on my 7.5 10 bolt every chance I get. 2 hrs a day my guess even if its 30° out. Im getting to set the pinion depth and backlash a bit better than I had it looks like I was too deep in and had barely any backlash. All I need is a perfect ring and pinion match up and it a sealed deal. Working under the car is alot warmer at night it seems!...? I guess no wind during the night.
Havent got any real progress with the diff i need acceptable weather... But looking at the bright side the driver seat was delivered home today and it is SICK! Color matches perfectly and the upholstery job is sweet. Id recommend Procar to anyone looking for a nice quality seat. I paid $440 per side.( about $880 a pair) That includes the adapter-bracket/ seat sliders/ seat. I honestly cant wait to cruise to Carlisle this year and hopefully many more events.
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