tie front and rear frame together?

[mobileaudio25]

I thought you'd ask me that question...lol! I did pull the ABS sensors, temporarily, of course.
Using the grease gun, I put a slightly larger zerk fitting at the end of the grease gun. I didn't screw it in to the hub, but I held it against the ABS opening and pumped away. After awhile it starts oozing out of the hole. I then try to push the grease back in, or as much as it will take. Then I re-install the ABS sensor plug (sans the wire, of course)...and that's about it.
This was before I learned about the Riff Raff Diesel fittings.

That's what I just did too. I wanted to install everything and had all the parts now I'm waiting on the fittings . No reason to rush have to tear everything off to do it later. Is it easy to grease with the straight up fitting or did you switch it to a 90 ? I put mobile one synthetic grease in the hub bearing do you think that's fine to mix?

 

[mobileaudio25]

A bad, or collapsed bushing could be the cause of that. How is the condition of the frame and rear frame rails? Although, you said the rear 4-body bushings were replaced. I would check them out anyway.
Do you still have the old springs up front? One sagged front spring could also make it lean slightly to one side.

I checked all 4 body bushings and they look good to my knowledge. Feels solid and they all look to be in place bolted and not pinched or squashed. I know he said he had to go through the trunk for a few

I do have the original springs up front, but it's not my body that is the issue it is the frame rails themself are not the same height. The frame rails up front are pretty close to symmetrical from my measurements. Maybe I'm thinking incorrectly but bad springs wouldn't make the rear frame rails a different height would they?

 

[mobileaudio25]

or the car is not parked on a flat surface, or the front left is lower than the right side or the tire pressures are not equal or there is something in the trunk or the rear springs are not aligned properly

It's in the garage so i think it's flat, I do have some car parts in the trunk so that very well be the reason, I didn't even think of that. I'll have it on the rack this Friday I'm going to double check the springs

 

[Opie Knievel]

I checked all 4 body bushings and they look good to my knowledge. Feels solid and they all look to be in place bolted and not pinched or squashed. I know he said he had to go through the trunk for a few

I do have the original springs up front, but it's not my body that is the issue it is the frame rails themself are not the same height. The frame rails up front are pretty close to symmetrical from my measurements. Maybe I'm thinking incorrectly but bad springs wouldn't make the rear frame rails a different height would they?

A weak spring on one side will make that side sit lower. The frame rests directly on the spring. It most definitely will affect frame rail height. Remember the frames on these G Bodies are pretty flexible. It could possibly be a few different things causing this as stated earlier.

 

[motorheadmike]

Here is my solution: https://gbodyforum.com/threads/1980-pontiac-lemans-station-wagon.49375/page-19#post-460499

 

[403Olds]

Do you know why the frame horns are different of each side? One side there's 1 bolt not the bottom and the other side two. What's the purpose. Looks good thanks for the info got mine installed today

I'm assuming that they wanted to use the same bumper shocks, but had to flip them for some reason. Look forward to hearing how yours works. The angle iron will be fine, it will keep the two ends from moving relative to each other.

 

[mobileaudio25]

I'm assuming that they wanted to use the same bumper shocks, but had to flip them for some reason. Look forward to hearing how yours works. The angle iron will be fine, it will keep the two ends from moving relative to each other.

I took it for a test drive today. I could really tell that the rear was a lot more tight and well connected. Definitely worth the $15 for the steel and an hour of my time.
Tomorrow I'm rebuilding the whole front in. 25 new parts going on tomorrow excited to see what type of difference this makes my handeling . Should ride on rails now

 

[Longroof79]

You'll be pleasantly surprised at what a difference rebuilding the frontend will make. I assume you're also replacing the springs.

 

[Longroof79]

That's what I just did too. I wanted to install everything and had all the parts now I'm waiting on the fittings . No reason to rush have to tear everything off to do it later. Is it easy to grease with the straight up fitting or did you switch it to a 90 ? I put mobile one synthetic grease in the hub bearing do you think that's fine to mix?

I greased the hubs using a straight zerk fitting, but they weren't screwed into the hubs. It was just used to be able to aim the grease into the port.
As for either using a straight fitting, or 90 deg., you'll have to see once they're installed which will be more accessible. I would think that you wouldn't have to grease the hubs often.

As for mixing synthetic grease with standard stuff, it probably wouldn't make a difference, but I can't swear by it.

 

[mobileaudio25]

I greased the hubs using a straight zerk fitting, but they weren't screwed into the hubs. It was just used to be able to aim the grease into the port.
As for either using a straight fitting, or 90 deg., you'll have to see once they're installed which will be more accessible. I would think that you wouldn't have to grease the hubs often.

As for mixing synthetic grease with standard stuff, it probably wouldn't make a difference, but I can't swear by it.

The 90 degree zerk fittings at definitely more manageable. Yeah I did springs also . Huge difference very happy with the final product!