tie front and rear frame together?

[pontiacgp]

When we raced G bodies at a circle track coming from the cage we had a loop on the front clip with 4 down bars on each side. We also had a front bumper tying the the two horns together with the same tubing. We used 1.75" tubing with a .095 wall thickness. We ran an 1100 lbs spring right front and the frame on the right front would still move about 3/8"

 

[mobileaudio25]

The after market front tie bar/jounce bars may seem expensive but are made with far superior stronger tubing making a noticable difference.umi also makes a rear shock tower tie bar too.

Yeah I know they are made of stronger tubing I'm sure there is a slight notice of improvement, but not really worth the benefit to me. I run a lot of umi products I love them. I have seen that shock tower brace I wonder how hard those are to install?

 

[mobileaudio25]

When we raced G bodies at a circle track coming from the cage we had a loop on the front clip with 4 down bars on each side. We also had a front bumper tying the the two horns together with the same tubing. We used 1.75" tubing with a .095 wall thickness. We ran an 1100 lbs spring right front and the frame on the right front would still move about 3/8"

You ran a piece of metal from one front bumper horn to the other and just bolted it directly to the horns? I was thinking about drilling into the frame because the horns would have some play as compared to the actual frame wouldn't you think?

 

[pontiacgp]

You ran a piece of metal from one front bumper horn to the other and just bolted it directly to the horns? I was thinking about drilling into the frame because the horns would have some play as compared to the actual frame wouldn't you think?

Everything was welded, frame was boxed and the cage was welded directly to the frame. We had to use rubber body bushing in that division so we used hockey pucks. You need to box the c channels so they don't flex cause that will allow the rear rails to move. The front isn't as bad cause it has the heavy crossmember where the engine sits and the front horns are closer to it than the rar horns are to the smaller rear crossmember where the rear suspension is. What are you planning for the car that makes you concerned about the front frame moving. UMI has the Green Machine that is run at circuits and they don't seem to be concerned after adding their braces to the frame. Perhaps if you contact UMI they may be able to help you.

 

[mobileaudio25]

Everything was welded, frame was boxed and the cage was welded directly to the frame. We had to use rubber body bushing in that division so we used hockey pucks. You need to box the c channels so they don't flex cause that will allow the rear rails to move. The front isn't as bad cause it has the heavy crossmember where the engine sits and the front horns are closer to it than the rar horns are to the smaller rear crossmember where the rear suspension is. What are you planning for the car that makes you concerned about the front frame moving. UMI has the Green Machine that is run at circuits and they don't seem to be concerned after adding their braces to the frame. Perhaps if you contact UMI they may be able to help you.

No concern at all I just feel as if every little bit can make a difference. To be honest I only drive the car maybe 100 miles this year. I want to get into the habit of driving it more often. I'm in the middle of doing a completely new front end and blazer brake upgrade now. I want it to handle like it's on rails. The only thing original on the car still is the front lower control arms and power steering pump. I just know there isn't a lot in the front or rear to tie the frame together. Just an idea

 

[mobileaudio25]

I just got under there and took a good look for about 20 mins. I will agree with you I don't think the front needs anymore done to it. The engine cradle, crossmember, jounce bars, sway bar, core support and bumper look to have everything pretty solid up front. I might weld a bar to my existing jounce bars to box it in like the GP Bar.. I do have original body mounts upfront so I do need to replace those also....

As far as the rearI do think I'm going to have a flat or boxed piece of steel cut and mount it to the rear frame horns. Other than the bumper there really isn't anything else holding the rear together other than the sway bar. Should be an easy bolt on.

Do you know anyone that's installed umi shock tower brace? Do they bolt in fairly easy without having to take anything apart?

 

[403Olds]

When I added the GP bar up front, I noticed that when I turned the wheels, the car responded faster. I added a piece of square tubing across the rear bumper bolts, it was the equivalent of being drug across the yard on a piece of 3/4" plywood versus 1/4" plywood. The car seemed stiffer and it made the suspension work more. I added a bar across at the upper rear shocks, I didn't notice as much as a difference, but I also changed to a stiffer spring at the same time, so hard to tell, but I'd definitely recommend the GP bar and tying the rear frame horns together.

 

[ed1948]

For us non GP owners...what does the GP frame bar look like?
...and I'm a cheap basa, my work time is cheap

 

[Longroof79]

If you're not going to autocross the car, don't sweat it. It sounds like you're overthinking the handling issue. I think what you've done so far makes a dramatic difference compared to a stock G-body, even with the F41 package.
Good springs and shocks will improve upon what you've already accomplished.

I've only added the GP bar tied into the jounce bars, fender to core support bars, radiator X-bars, front F-body 36mm hollow swaybar, rear 7/8" swaybar, boxed lower control arms, KYB shocks, MOOG 5606 F41 springs, rear cargo coils... and Monte SS steering box...Energy Suspension body mounts and front end bushings. I'm happy with the handling of my wagon. For street and road use, I feel it's more than sufficient.

 

[pontiacgp]

For us non GP owners...what does the GP frame bar look like?
...and I'm a cheap basa, my work time is cheap

sorry that is classified material, when you buy a GP only then can we tell you....😀