Top Half of Radiator hot, Bottom Half Cold?

[fleming442]

My guess is the blockage would be in the rad. The engine was thoroughly cleaned out by the machine shop, and me before assembly. I think the radiator being frozen solid with water in it crushed some of the bits and isn't letting nearly enough or any coolant flow.

Funny thing about water is that it expands when it freezes. So, I don't see how it would crush anything other than the space between the tubes and fins. Why are you letting water sit in sub-freezing temps, anyway, knucklehead? That's how you crack blocks and heads.
Is the 'burban running yet?

 

[MrSony]

Funny thing about water is that it expands when it freezes. So, I don't see how it would crush anything other than the space between the tubes and fins. Why are you letting water sit in sub-freezing temps, anyway, knucklehead? That's how you crack blocks and heads.
Is the 'burban running yet?

Tbh I just forgot there was water in it. We had freak 25* night in the midst of low 40s. It had water in it for a few months since the belt came off and knocked the lower rad hose off that previous summer. Block was fine, was just slush as it was about 80/20 water to coolant.
And no. 😀 I tried to pull codes but either the CEL is burned out or the ecm fuses are. It was too windy and late (I get off work at 10pm now) to investigate further that day. I will tomorrow.

 

[MrSony]

...crush anything other than the space between the tubes and fins...

Thats what im thinking happened. The rad was literally frozen solid. Took hours infront of a heat lamp to even slush.

 

[pontiacgp]

looks like your still having them.

I said it before and I will say it again, I think some where you have a blockage.

 

[TURNA]

 

[Dayzedandkonfuzed]

Thermostat is a new stant. 195*

Could be your problem. Stant is the biggest name in thermostats, but also have highest rate of defective parts. Glad we don't sell them anymore.

 

[MrSony]

And fyi the rad froze with the old "blue" engine.

 

[pontiacgp]

If the rad froze then the tubes are bent and if it was me that rad would have been tossed as soon as it froze

 

[Ribbedroof]

Did you test the thermostat before installation?

With all the "lowest cost" mentality in parts stores, and the questionable sourcing of parts, i test them first these days, unless I buy OE from a dealer

 

[Max Headroom]

Correct me if I'm wrong but if the thermostat is not opening, the top hose should not be hot because it's not passing water from the engine into the radiator. It seems to me, that the hot top/ cold bottom hoses indicate a complete lack of circulation. (If the temp is really that different.) If the radiator was blocked, the water pump would starve and might or might not, make some kind of noise in complaint. You wouldn't know about a blockage if you pop the cap and check the water level with the engine off. However, if you start the car with the rad cap off and the rad is clogged, you should have water running out of the top of the radiator because it can't get back to the bottom of the radiator.

Did you make sure that the thermostat is in right side up? If the expansion element is facing up into the gooseneck, it will take a long time to get hot enough to open. If not that, are you sure that the water pump is functioning correctly? Before I did anything else, I would pull the rad cap and start the car. Make sure that the water is flowing (Water pump ok) If not flowing but not overflowing, check t-stat for proper installation. If so, spend more time looking at pump.

Just a thought.